Build Rescuing a Basket Case '72 FJ40

[diesellibrarian]

On my '75 the wire for the idle solenoid was wrapped along with the temperature sender wire in the middle of the firewall. It had been cut, but I found it when I unwrapped the wires a bit.

Have you ruled out a vacuum leak? Any time I hear "won't idle without a lot of choke" it's almost always a vacuum leak.

As for your battery, I have one of these permanently wired to my battery.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W46BX31?tag=ihco-20

With the accessory wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LWQ35Y?tag=ihco-20

Finally, setting your voltage regulator is pretty easy. This thread is the definitive guide to all things VR: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/voltage-regulator-ext-how-it-works.747718/

I haven't ruled out a vacuum leak, but I've got fresh carb gaskets in place. It could in theory be leaking at the intake manifold/head, but I can't bring myself to do the intake manifold gasket right now - though I recognize it's probably going to have to happen at some point. I also have a new PCV valve and grommet installed. Not sure what other possible leak points there might be, aside from worn carb bushings perhaps?

 

[MatthewMcD]

I haven't ruled out a vacuum leak, but I've got fresh carb gaskets in place. It could in theory be leaking at the intake manifold/head, but I can't bring myself to do the intake manifold gasket right now - though I recognize it's probably going to have to happen at some point. I also have a new PCV valve and grommet installed. Not sure what other possible leak points there might be, aside from worn carb bushings perhaps?

Easy test, with it running, spray carb cleaner around the base and on the bushings, if the idle improves you found your leak. In my case it was the brake booster hose connection. You can pull the hose and plug it or use some vice grips to pinch it off. Same for the PCV hose.

 

[90WT]

If you like points and carburetors, I think the vacuum gage is crucial. They're cheap and can help you understand where next to spend you're time. If vacuum is good, no worries. If low vacuum, then you need to address the vacuum before you can fiddle with carb, etc.

Cheap from HF: Vacuum tester

 

[MatthewMcD]

If you like points and carburetors, I think the vacuum gage is crucial. They're cheap and can help you understand where next to spend you're time. If vacuum is good, no worries. If low vacuum, then you need to address the vacuum before you can fiddle with carb, etc.

Cheap from HF: Vacuum tester

I second that. Also, you didn't mention your timing. My timing lite has a Dwell function that helps setting points a lot better than just setting gap.

 

[diesellibrarian]

If you like points and carburetors, I think the vacuum gage is crucial. They're cheap and can help you understand where next to spend you're time. If vacuum is good, no worries. If low vacuum, then you need to address the vacuum before you can fiddle with carb, etc.

Cheap from HF: Vacuum tester

What I really "like" is fuel injection lol.

But your point is well-taken. Will source a vacuum gauge and see what it tells me.

 

[diesellibrarian]

I second that. Also, you didn't mention your timing. My timing lite has a Dwell function that helps setting points a lot better than just setting gap.

Yeah, I've been looking at getting a dwell meter. I set the initial timing using the static timing method, and I'm confident that it's correct. I have a timing light, but of course it's of no real use if the engine won't hold an idle.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Fastest and easiest way to look for vacuum leaks is a can of WD-40 with a pee tube. With a cold engine idling as even as you can get it; Lightly and quickly spray the WD on the intake manifold mating surfaces and the carb base/sections. If the rpm's kick up that the leaky spot. Good plan to have a fire extinguisher handy and preform the test outside.

Hemostats are much nicer to hoses than vice grips. Amoron has big ones that can do a brake booster hose for like $10

 

[diesellibrarian]

Not too worried about the brake booster hose, as it's a brand new hose and fittings that I installed with aircraft thread sealer.

Anyway, I really appreciate everyone's advice! i have a few leads to chase down here. Will report back.

 

[charliemeyer007]

When the booster leaks internally (the reason to hemostat the hose) it can be a big vacuum leak. Cylinder #5 is across from the booster port on the manifold and will run lean - damage to the cylinder wall, piston and or valve(s) will occur given enough time.

 

[rlong]

If you like points and carburetors, I think the vacuum gage is crucial. They're cheap and can help you understand where next to spend you're time. If vacuum is good, no worries. If low vacuum, then you need to address the vacuum before you can fiddle with carb, etc.

Cheap from HF: Vacuum tester

Also, uneven vacuum is an (one) indicator of valve leaks or problems. If say a single valve is not sealing you will see a regular dip in vacuum.

 

[diesellibrarian]

When the booster leaks internally (the reason to hemostat the hose) it can be a big vacuum leak. Cylinder #5 is across from the booster port on the manifold and will run lean - damage to the cylinder wall, piston and or valve(s) will occur given enough time.

Oh, I see.

The booster is an FJ62 booster that I swapped in, along with an FJ62 master cylinder. I figured that the FJ62 setup would play nicer with my front disc brake conversion than the drum brake master. The booster came off my old 62, and did not have any obvious problems prior to removal, but it's still worth that simple test to eliminate it as a suspect. Thanks again!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

With timing at 7deg, valves to spec, idling at 650 rpm, what vacuum are you pulling? Should be about 18” of vacuum steady. Report back and we can assist from there. BTW, If you have not done a thorough carb rebuild, i highly recommend it.

 

[middlecalf]

it tested at 2.3 ohms primary resistance

What about secondary resistance? Also might get an inline spark plug tester to test the firing of each cylinder.

 

[diesellibrarian]

With timing at 7deg, valves to spec, idling at 650 rpm, what vacuum are you pulling? Should be about 18” of vacuum steady. Report back and we can assist from there. BTW, If you have not done a thorough carb rebuild, i highly recommend it.

Ok, I did a little more work on the rig last night. Installed a new cap and rotor. Tried to install new points but they didn’t fit so the old points went back in. Re-timed it and started it up. It started easily and idled quite well. Once warmed up, it idles without the choke, which is something it didn’t really want to do before.

I think I need to adjust the float again, or take a closer look at the needle and seat, because the bowl seems to be emptying faster than it’s being refilled, so after a couple of minutes it seems to die of fuel starvation. At least that’s what think is going on based on what I’m seeing through the sight glass.

ANYWAY I did buy a vacuum tester, which I connected to a vacuum port on the manifold ( the one that is normally used for vac retard on the distributor. At idle, it pulls a pretty steady 15”, which i gather is low based on what @ceylonfj40nut had said. Does that mean there is likely a leak somewhere? I clamped off the brake booster hose, but that had no effect on vacuum or idle. Would installing the air cleaner assembly affect vacuum? I’ve been testing with no air cleaner.

I also bought a new coil, but couldn’t install because it’s an external resistor type and I don’t have a resistor for it.

So that’s where things are at right now. Gonna mess with the float a bit, do some of the above-mentioned tests for vacuum leaks, and just keep picking away at this! Thanks again for the suggestions and help!

 

[charliemeyer007]

You can add in a $10 electric fuel pump from Amoron to see if your manual fuel pump is an issue.

 

[charliemeyer007]

So this is my switched, fused, filtered fuel transfer pump. Has 5' draw and 20' delivery hose plus a 10' power cord that will plug into cig lighter or clamp to the battery. Will do diesel too. All the stuff was from Amoron or ebay was about $50 back then. I have made up about 10 units over the years. Way better than holding up the crappy 5 gallon gas cans if you are old. You can swap the hoses to drain fuel tanks. Got a carb engine, you can hook in this system with a 5 gallon can of gas and by pass gas tank issues with old gas, weak fuel pump, clogged lines or filters...

 

[diesellibrarian]

Kinda tired of messing around with the engine on this thing, so I've changed tack and pulled the welder out of retirement for a bit. One project I've been putting off is repairing the B-pillars where the previous owner hacked up the hard top to build the shortened cab, leaving ragged, rusty edges and the inside of the pillar open to the elements.

To fix this, I put a fresh cut-off wheel on my grinder and made a new, much cleaner cut. Then i scrounged a scrap piece of sheet metal that was just a little too long and a little too wide, and tacked it into place. Then I fully welded one side, before cutting off the excess metal and fully welding the second side. I find this method a lot easier than measuring and cutting the piece before installing - especially when it's a long, narrow piece that is tricky to handle. So much better to tack it on, then cut/grind it down to size before fully welding it up.

After welding, ground everything flat and smooth, and test fit it on the 40. This pillar will serve as the support for my home-grown soft top bows, which I have also been working on (no pics yet). The piece I welded on is the one facing the rear of the vehicle.

Then I gooped on some filler, sanded it down, and put a couple coats of primer on it.

Will repeat this process on the passenger side, and then I can finalize the soft top situation on this rig.

Will be back on engine stuff, too, as soon as the weather warms up a little more. I have a new coil and ballast resistor to install, and a few carb adjustments to make. In order to do that kind of stuff, I need to be able to open the garage door, and the wintry weather over the past couple of weeks has made that pretty difficult.

 

[FloridaLife]

Kinda tired of messing around with the engine on this thing, so I've changed tack and pulled the welder out of retirement for a bit. One project I've been putting off is repairing the B-pillars where the previous owner hacked up the hard top to build the shortened cab, leaving ragged, rusty edges and the inside of the pillar open to the elements.

To fix this, I put a fresh cut-off wheel on my grinder and made a new, much cleaner cut. Then i scrounged a scrap piece of sheet metal that was just a little too long and a little too wide, and tacked it into place. Then I fully welded one side, before cutting off the excess metal and fully welding the second side. I find this method a lot easier than measuring and cutting the piece before installing - especially when it's a long, narrow piece that is tricky to handle. So much better to tack it on, then cut/grind it down to size before fully welding it up.

View attachment 3890150
View attachment 3890151

After welding, ground everything flat and smooth, and test fit it on the 40. This pillar will serve as the support for my home-grown soft top bows, which I have also been working on (no pics yet). The piece I welded on is the one facing the rear of the vehicle.

View attachment 3890152

Then I gooped on some filler, sanded it down, and put a couple coats of primer on it.

View attachment 3890153

View attachment 3890154

Will repeat this process on the passenger side, and then I can finalize the soft top situation on this rig.

Will be back on engine stuff, too, as soon as the weather warms up a little more. I have a new coil and ballast resistor to install, and a few carb adjustments to make. In order to do that kind of stuff, I need to be able to open the garage door, and the wintry weather over the past couple of weeks has made that pretty difficult.

Sunny and 80 degrees here.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Sunny and 80 degrees here.

Yesterday we had rain, then hail, then snow, then thunder, then ice pellets, then more rain. Springtime in Canada.

 

[FloridaLife]

Yesterday we had rain, then hail, then snow, then thunder, then ice pellets, then more rain. Springtime in Canada.

WOW! I'm too old and have had too much surgery & parts replaced to deal with the cold. Loved it when I was younger though! But now, I'll stick with Florida.

Hey, when is the election for Prime Minister? Who do you think will win? I've seen some YouTube videos of Pierre Poilievre. That guy seems pretty sharp. I love it when a reporter asks him a stupid question or tries for a "got you" moment and how he handles them. Cracks me up! If I lived in Canada he would have my vote to be the 51st Governor!