Replacement Manifold vs. Header (2 Viewers)

[bmzero]

When I bought my 60 it had an exhaust leak. I was able to quickly identify that it was leaking at the connection between the manifold and exhaust pipe flange. No big deal, I thought. After me swapping two gaskets and taking it to a local muffler shop (a good one), it turns out that there are several leaks throughout the manifold and it's surfaces, as with a lot of the 60's.

I have read through a lot of threads here (using the search) about headers and manifolds, but I haven't seen one specifically talking about the pros and cons, or at least not one in the last few years.

The exhaust guy was pretty adamant that I go back with another manifold, but my concern is that if I buy another one, I will have the same problems, sooner rather than later even I if machine the surfaces and do everything correctly during the install.

I would much rather go with a header, but I'm not experienced in this engine well enough to know the answer to that yet.

I do plan on doing an engine swap at some point in the future, so doing nothing is a possible option as well.

Thoughts?

 

[FishTown]

The original owner of my truck put headers on in 2005. For what it's worth, he also put in a brand new engine block at the same time. Both have about 70,000 miles now. I am very satisfied with it. My first FJ60 had the same leaky manifold problem. We replaced it with another used manifold - 4 months later I had more leaks.

If you can get away without the emissions equipment, my suggestion would be to desmog, get headers, run the stock carb or trollhole carb and stock dizzy.

But I'm still pretty new at all of this, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

 

[bmzero]

I just had the stock carb rebuilt yesterday. Huge improvement, so I would like to stay with it if it make sense with the rest of the setup.

Thanks for the feedback @FishTown, especially the part about the leaky stock manifold. That's my fear.

 

[FishTown]

Another thing to consider - when my headers were done, they also did full custom exhaust and removed the catalytic converter from the equation.

 

[bmzero]

Another thing to consider - when my headers were done, they also did full custom exhaust and removed the catalytic converter from the equation.

My cat has already been removed, so that should make the process easier.

 

[Godwin]

This is another option 3FE exhaust on 2F head. If you make down one day you can check it out.

 

[bmzero]

This is another option 3FE exhaust on 2F head. If you make down one day you can check it out.

The install looks good. What are the benefits of that manifold over the 2F?

 

[Godwin]

The install looks good. What are the benefits of that manifold over the 2F?

I don't know if going 3FE manifold offers any measurable benefits over the 2F. The 2F manifold I pulled off was cracked. I don't expect these 3FE manifolds to crack. The pool of good 2F manifolds is shrinking and cost likely rising, but then 3FE manifolds may or may not be that plentiful. I went with the 3FE because I had them on hand and did not have any extra 2Fs.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

PROS:
They may as well be factory, cast iron headers.

Nothing in the way of escaping gasses.

Not muddled with flaps, and the egr connection is easily plugged, as @Godwin has shown us- Thank you BTW!

They're not prone to crack.

They're not prone to warp.

and they sound alright with a Delta 262* cam...

CONS:
NOT (Cali) smog legal; for all intents and purposes, all EGR and AIR could be used with modified plumbing, but no way to use heat riser, and not OEM...

Requires irreversible mods to an intake manifold.- cant use heat riser

Requires irreversible mods to exhaust manifolds. the mounting flanges must be shaved to match 2F intake flange thickness.

Requires dual drops. kinda a pain for some peoples thinking, but not different in design that way than any other header.

They're noisier than a factory 2F mani and muffler; but not louder than a header

For me, if it isn't a smogger, and it's a carbd 2F, I'm going to use 3FE exhaust manis. untill I can score a nice set of 3F I/E and C...do what you want...

 

[Godwin]

One more PRO - the aluminum intake is divorced from the exhaust which eliminates the possibility of hot exhaust gasses hitting the underside of the intake and cracking it.

 

[NookShneer]

I moved from CA to WA. Desmogged and installed Tri-Y headers, Felpro gasket, SOR manifold stud kit (recommend) Rebuilt carb (marks off road) had a local exhaust shop deleted the cat and ran 2.5 all the way back. When it's idleing I've been asked if it's a V-8. It runs way better. More responsive than ever. Wished the last 4 years of ownership were driving like this.

After weighing the costs of re doing the alum/cast iron intake exhaust and doing it right. Weld alum crack, new rings in the exhaust horns, repair/replace a broken stud, new seals, bolt together and have it machined flat.

I came to the conclusion that the costs would be about the same.

 

[slacker24-7]

I replaced my leaking manifold with a quality header, and no cat , years ago . smog is not a issue here, and I feel it's a great mod, the guys above have hit most of the positives , I really don't see a neg. with you being a southern owner.

 

[bmzero]

I replaced my leaking manifold with a quality header, and no cat , years ago . smog is not a issue here, and I feel it's a great mod, the guys above have hit most of the positives , I really don't see a neg. with you being a southern owner.

Thanks. I'm leaning that direction.

 

[tpowell51]

I moved from CA to WA. Desmogged and installed Tri-Y headers, Felpro gasket, SOR manifold stud kit (recommend) Rebuilt carb (marks off road) had a local exhaust shop deleted the cat and ran 2.5 all the way back. When it's idleing I've been asked if it's a V-8. It runs way better. More responsive than ever. Wished the last 4 years of ownership were driving like this.

After weighing the costs of re doing the alum/cast iron intake exhaust and doing it right. Weld alum crack, new rings in the exhaust horns, repair/replace a broken stud, new seals, bolt together and have it machined flat.

I came to the conclusion that the costs would be about the same.

What header did you use? do you have a part number? dealing with the same question for my 85 FJ60

 

[NookShneer]

@tpowell51 I purchased a used pair. They were cheap but beat up, ended up having them sand blasted and welded to get them right on the mating surface. They were also bent from the PO presumably dropping the truck down on a rock. So my exhaust guy did a lot of work to route the exhaust.

This is the header model. But mine is an older model which had an EGR port.

Manafre also has a full exhaust set up listed as well which looks like headers back.

I added a fluid heat riser plate to the bottom of the aluminum intake manifold.

See this thread for that install.

Best Fluid Heat Riser Kit?

 

[tpowell51]

thanks, i currently have a header on the FJ60 but is is a POS. i have the stock manifold but not the EGR parts. i know i can block off those ports but what about the heater hoses? where do those attach if i put the stock manifold back on?

on the fence if i should get a new header of put the stock manifold on.

 

[NookShneer]

In the Stock set up the intake/exhaust are mated together and the iron exhaust heats up the alum intake manifold.

I'm in Seattle and it's cooler most of the year. So I added the fluid heat rises to help with warming up I plumbed mine into the heater control valve on the firewall so when I have the heat slid in the HVAC control the fluid heat rise is getting fed coolant.

If your not on as cold of a place you could go with out and then wouldn't need to route any coolant hoses.

If you are putting the stock intake/ exhaust combo back on you will not need to route any hoses.

 

[tpowell51]

In the Stock set up the intake/exhaust are mated together and the iron exhaust heats up the alum intake manifold.

I'm in Seattle and it's cooler most of the year. So I added the fluid heat rises to help with warming up I plumbed mine into the heater control valve on the firewall so when I have the heat slid in the HVAC control the fluid heat rise is getting fed coolant.

If your not on as cold of a place you could go with out and then wouldn't need to route any coolant hoses.

If you are putting the stock intake/ exhaust combo back on you will not need to route any hoses.

Ok got it. I'm going go with the stock setup as really don't want to send the money on the header as I already have the stock manifold. The previous owner ran the violent hoses to the bottom of the intake, I didn't realize they were not stock. Thanks for the info.