2fpower
SILVER Star
Still have not found the splices, but found this. Sounds like I just need to find some aluminum that has same ID as the OD above
Need aluminum brazing rods.
Need aluminum brazing rods.
AC Dryer Relocation kit? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Brunt Force Trauma
- Start date
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If someone in your area carries Forney, use brazing rod #46111
2fpower
SILVER Star
Quick update. I finally got this done. (getting hot here -necessity is the mother of all invention)
I used the Forney sticks recommended above, and brazed in a union. I posted pics in my Boost thread (link in sig). Page 7 of that thread.
I used the lines from the condenser to the dryer using all stock brackets from the 93' rig and then used the pipe out of the dryer and spliced it before the "T" going to the pressure sensor. I chose here because the sensor appeared to be different between the years.
The only trick was that I could not find a fitting for the 8mm pipe, nor could I find pipe with the right ID to work as a fitting. I ended up finding some soft aluminum line from a local airplane parts store, and make it work.
i first took a pair of small, long needle nose pliers and used them to open the end of the pipe up. ( I also found it best to not cut off your scrap yet, use the whole pipe to have leverage)
I then took a scrap of the 8 mm line from the 93' that I was not going to use, and sanded it much like a pencil, making a long taper. I then pushed then taped this into the end of the new fitting, stretching it wider. Did this several times, then cut the fitting to length, maybe 1 inch long. flipped over the the other side and used the pliers and the tapered piece.
Cleaned the inside of this fitting really good with a wire brush and the outside of the mating surfaces, and then came the torch. I did use the forney flux, which is a powder. You heat up the stick while you are heating up the pipe, and put the stick into the flux. Worked perfect.
Good luck to all.
I used the Forney sticks recommended above, and brazed in a union. I posted pics in my Boost thread (link in sig). Page 7 of that thread.
I used the lines from the condenser to the dryer using all stock brackets from the 93' rig and then used the pipe out of the dryer and spliced it before the "T" going to the pressure sensor. I chose here because the sensor appeared to be different between the years.
The only trick was that I could not find a fitting for the 8mm pipe, nor could I find pipe with the right ID to work as a fitting. I ended up finding some soft aluminum line from a local airplane parts store, and make it work.
i first took a pair of small, long needle nose pliers and used them to open the end of the pipe up. ( I also found it best to not cut off your scrap yet, use the whole pipe to have leverage)
I then took a scrap of the 8 mm line from the 93' that I was not going to use, and sanded it much like a pencil, making a long taper. I then pushed then taped this into the end of the new fitting, stretching it wider. Did this several times, then cut the fitting to length, maybe 1 inch long. flipped over the the other side and used the pliers and the tapered piece.
Cleaned the inside of this fitting really good with a wire brush and the outside of the mating surfaces, and then came the torch. I did use the forney flux, which is a powder. You heat up the stick while you are heating up the pipe, and put the stick into the flux. Worked perfect.
Good luck to all.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Well should give you the next update, the braising of aluminum joint failed and Let all freon out. tried two more times and both failed so headed to the welding shop.
2fpower
SILVER Star
I got the lines tig welded, and have cold air again!!!
2fpower
SILVER Star
Update.... my 40th edition still is working great 2 years later. The second set of TIG'd lines would never seal up. Tried 3 times. So I went another route that I am just as happy with, and is easier for everyone. I still used the lines and dryer mount/ dryer from a 93, then made a splice between the dryer and the sensor behind the battery. that is the point I connected the 93' line to the 97' line with a swageloc 5/16 connector. ss-500-6 part number,
Took some careful bending of the 97' line; however worked great and is a DIY fix(one banana).
Took some careful bending of the 97' line; however worked great and is a DIY fix(one banana).
Last edited:
2fpower
SILVER Star
Here is what you need from the 93' parts rig. you want all the hoses from the condenser up to the dryer then over to the firewall. That last piece you will cut about 8" from the dryer. See small circle on full a/c diagram. The sensor is different on that line, so that is why I cut it before the sensor.
Remember that that line has a connection about halfway up the right side inner fender; however, it is different size than the later model lines, so you have to splice that line somehow.
Remember that that line has a connection about halfway up the right side inner fender; however, it is different size than the later model lines, so you have to splice that line somehow.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Here is the swaglok fittings i used.
I know this is old, but I plan on doing this soon. Your post says you used a 7/16 swaglok connection, picture shows a 5/16, do you remember which one it was? I have plenty of swaglok couplings to pick from at work just wanna double check and make sure I have a couple hundred of them in case I keep screwing up lol
NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
Looks like a good idea!
2fpower
SILVER Star
The picture is the one I used.
Has anyone else done this and has a pic or 2? TIA 
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So to bump an old thread.
I have recently encountered this pre-95 and post-95 A/C line compatibility.
We have a build in the shop that came in with things worked on but not done. The earlier ac dryer is in it with the LHS forward ac line. This is certainly the nice way to relocate it. However as is fully documented here in this thread the LHS connection at about the ABS pump won’t mate to the post-95 due to different threads and size. Really not a fan of couplers here in my shop for things like this.
So here is my solution.
I used my MasterCool hydraulic flaring kit. In it I used the 5/16’s dies for GM. This to mate the o-ring flare slash seating surface. This was a test but all I got to do now is put the post-95 flared nut on the pre-95 line and form this flare. It’s a touch long or to deep but that can easily be cut off to the right depth. This allows for a seamless coupling of the two different fittings using OEM parts. Which in turn means a mixing of the two systems to get the best results.
Not for everyone because you will need to buy the tool and die which is minimum $200 but it sure does make a mean Toyota double flare too plus a half dozen or more other flares.
Cheers
I have recently encountered this pre-95 and post-95 A/C line compatibility.
We have a build in the shop that came in with things worked on but not done. The earlier ac dryer is in it with the LHS forward ac line. This is certainly the nice way to relocate it. However as is fully documented here in this thread the LHS connection at about the ABS pump won’t mate to the post-95 due to different threads and size. Really not a fan of couplers here in my shop for things like this.
So here is my solution.
I used my MasterCool hydraulic flaring kit. In it I used the 5/16’s dies for GM. This to mate the o-ring flare slash seating surface. This was a test but all I got to do now is put the post-95 flared nut on the pre-95 line and form this flare. It’s a touch long or to deep but that can easily be cut off to the right depth. This allows for a seamless coupling of the two different fittings using OEM parts. Which in turn means a mixing of the two systems to get the best results.
Not for everyone because you will need to buy the tool and die which is minimum $200 but it sure does make a mean Toyota double flare too plus a half dozen or more other flares.
Cheers
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Pretty slick.
Where can you find this kit?
It was JDM forever ago and @mot sourced it for me. May be made of unobtanium now.
