Rear window article available from Gary S (1 Viewer)

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Pablocruise. outstanding info. for trouble-shooting the deadly rear window on the "Little Piggies" Helped out tremendously getting the window to work. Recently purchased 1978 PIG with a defunct rear window. Traced all the wiring and due to the PO heavy off-roading the cargo side walls were full of mud and the ground wire for the rear-window safety switch was not making contact. Thoroughly cleaned all connections and now works perfectly.
 
If your wiring junction in the tailgate has been mistreated, you may still be able to get a new one from Toyota...

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Restored by the book & Tested for Function ...

New OEM Leeds

Upgraded Locking housing over Butts

Marine baked lacquered & QTY x2 new oem 10mm hex

I am still thinking why ? . But it was sure kool to bench test it ...:poof:
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I also am mostly done both my prototypes of the Barell connector plug's back side of gauges

- Early AMP Meter type 6 Leeds / 6 Empty Terminal bays out of the 12

- later style " Pho " amp meter 12v Volts gauge 8 Leeds out of the 12

- Gonna include a set of Rings , OEM amp stud covers w mini boots , for the older one kinda a 2 pc kit

- any other suggestions for either kit .......bring it on !

- here is my 40 series 1/79 later to give u idea .........just got 50 new oem yaz. white barrels from japan ans terminals

- would there be any interest in a fully polarized spedo & gauges LED in oem colors of course ?

if so PM me ,
 
pardon the 40 parts , just for reference.......


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I was digging through the computer at work yesterday and came across the file with all the stuff from my article years ago In Toyota Trails about rear window operation and stuff on the FJ55. I'd be glad to send it in to Mud to have listed in the tech section but don't know how to go about it. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? I would also be glad to attach the items (a few Worrd documents and some photos) to anyone who would like it. I tried to attach my home made schematic here but a .doc file is invalid so I'll just attach a few pics from the article, nothing earth-shattering picture wise. The top photo os the relay that is located behind the dash. Next is the rear window closed switch, last is a detail of the lower channel and attaching hardware. Most owners have seen this stuff but some probably haven't. Anyone who wants a copy of this stuff can send me an email shmukter@pa.metrocast.net and I'll send it to 'em possibly in a zip file or as a few separate attachments. Hope this helps...Gary S
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Sent you and email for the article! Thanks,
 
I know this is an old thread but my issue is the rear window acts like it's in a bind. Some times moves an inch or so and sometimes nothing. Both switches. I hear the motor try to ingauge then circuit kicks out. I pulled the access panel off and found no bind. I can push the window up and down manually sometimes. Any ideas? Also this is an issue that started all at once. Never had a problem before today.
 
Fist,

Maybe try taking out the weatherstripping on each side and make sure it's not binding and going up straight. Going up straight is important to prevent binding. Another common problem is the plastic gear in the motor housing, if it's cracked the window will not go up and/or jam. To check the motor gear it needs to be totally disassembled.
 
Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty positive it's not in the weather stripping as it's pretty free floating. I just picked this up a couple of months ago. Pretty sure I'll just start tearing into. Alignment does look off , might try that first. Either way I'm sure a tear down is coming.
 
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Just make sure the glass is going up straight and not cocked. If you think the glass is cocked to one side you can adjust the two geared arms. Let us know and you'll get through it and buy some bandaids. :)
 
Well I started taking it apart and stopped short of really getting into it. At this point it doesn't work at all only clicking jumpered a ground and tried direct power moved about an inch and couldn't get it to move again.
 

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