Rear Main Leak-1977 fj40

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I have what looks to be a pretty decent rear main leak. I know in fact that i need to replace the oil pan too and have already purchased a new toyota replacement but does anyone have experience with this, and how intensive is it time wise?
 
It's not technically challenging, but it requires some tools and gear since you will be dropping your Trans and TC to access it (heeeeaaaavy). If you have the gear and some extra hands to help you wrestle it, you should be ok.
 
Pretty deep. You need to pull the T/TC and the bell housing, which also happens to have the rear motor mounts on it, so you will need to support the motor.
There are three places at the back of the motor that can leak, the main oil galley plug, the cam plug and the rear main seal. You might even have some seeping aropund the flywheel bolts. If you do this, might as well replace all the clutch components, too.

GL

Ed
Swapin'motors 005.webp
 
You do not need to remove the flywheel housing to replace a rear main seal...


Drop the #4 main bearing cap after you have the oil pan down, pull out the old seal with your hand, clean the seal area on the crank and install the new rear main seal with your hand, no banging, no reason to hit it, just push it into place...put the #4 main cap back up and torque the four bolts, and call it good.



:beer:
 
Just a reminder. While you have your tranny out, hows the clutch? Now would be the time to replace these component (including pilot bearing and t/o bearing). Heck, even if not doing the clutch, you might still want to replace the bearings.
 
You do not need to remove the flywheel housing to replace a rear main seal...


Drop the #4 main bearing cap after you have the oil pan down, pull out the old seal with your hand, clean the seal area on the crank and install the new rear main seal with your hand, no banging, no reason to hit it, just push it into place...put the #4 main cap back up and torque the four bolts, and call it good.



:beer:

X2,

Might want to put a new oil pump while the pan is off - can't hurt and could save your engine.
 
You do not need to remove the flywheel housing to replace a rear main seal...


Drop the #4 main bearing cap after you have the oil pan down, pull out the old seal with your hand, clean the seal area on the crank and install the new rear main seal with your hand, no banging, no reason to hit it, just push it into place...put the #4 main cap back up and torque the four bolts, and call it good.



:beer:

so you "do not" have to separate the trans from the motor to do the rear main seal??? I'm doing my oil pan gasket now.??????
 
so you "do not" have to separate the trans from the motor to do the rear main seal??? I'm doing my oil pan gasket now.??????

Yes you have to pull the tranny.

I'd wait on the oil pan gasket and do it while you do the rear main. SO much easier as Steve stated.

That being said you can replace the rear main without removing the pan and the cap. It's just a lot easier and if you hose the seal up (which can happen) you usually don't have a spare on hand.
 
A further question

Hi,

Sorry if this is a hijack. I put a new rear main on this weekend and got most all in w/o a hitch. I did have a small (1/4") bulge on the outer edge. Is this anything to worry about? I wouldn't think it would as the inner lip looks fine. I have this fear that the rear main will leak & I should replace it. i've pulled a tranny twice a long time ago trying to get a good rear main in and really don't want to do it again. Thanks! ty
 
fyi, make a tool for getting the rear main seal in straight. flat aluminum stock, holes drilled to match flywheel pattern. use the old seal behind the tool to span the raised part on the crank. used stock flywheel bolts and evenly tightened them to push the new seal in place. goes in like butter.
 
You can install the rear main with 3 plumbing components from Home Depot or Lowes. Here is a link that defines the components and shows a rear main seal laying on the setup. For what it cost you cannot find a rear seal installation tool that matches the OD of the rear main seal. I think this is a great solution if you are not going to loosen the rear cap and want to minimize the hardware cost.

Rear Seal Installation Tool
 
Just a reminder. While you have your tranny out, hows the clutch? Now would be the time to replace these component (including pilot bearing and t/o bearing). Heck, even if not doing the clutch, you might still want to replace the bearings.

what’s a T/O bearing ?
 
My old write up on oil pan R&R. It doesn't take Poser's approach into account, but then I never tried it.

ih8mud.com/tech/oilpan.php

Fel-Pro Snap-ups.
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Good luck.
 
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