rear body mounts

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xtiaan2000 said:
So one needs a press to get the rotor off or disc off?

Does it matter what year the 4runner calipers are? I imagine that they will fit onto the knuckle without any modification?
Click to expand...

no press needed. put a nut on the stud, loosely threaded on to protect threads while you whack the studs with hammer. they are very loosely pressed and and are easy to pound out.
 
xtiaan2000 said:
Oh yea. I have two bolts that hold the old disks to the other thing:rolleyes:. It doesn't seem to want to separate. To the point where it seems like it is not supposed to separate:mad:. Even with a BFH. I have looked at some other pics and it seems like they had an bunch of bolts holding those two parts together while mine only had two. I only see the rounded heads of the bolts that go through both pieces and attach the tires.

More pics in a moment!!!
Click to expand...

Are the other four studs broke off or just missing. I wouldn't buy a press, just for this job, but nice to have. BFH works for alot of things. :)
 
got some pics.
I went old school as well. wire bruch and gasoline.
clean parts and the rusty rotors. Once I have taken out the two set bolts then I pound out the studs, and then the two pieces should come apart?
clean knckles.webp
inside disc.webp
rotor.webp
 
pull the two bolts and pound the six studs downwards. as rusty as they are, skip using a nut to save the threads and put new studs in. as rusty as it all is, you may need a bit of persuasion to get the hub seperated from the rotor btw, diesel is a bit safer as a solvent ;)
 
parts

The parts pile grows.
It's hard to get out to the garage knowing that it will be just a bunch of rust, grease, solvent, and wire wheel bits in the shirt. But I'll tell you what I like the outcome.

The dics break covers are being sandblasted. Tomorrow I pick them up with the gasket set and new fresh discs too, I think, to complete the parts acquisition.

I decided to use the 4runner calipers because Pighead had them!

I previously promised the part number for the rear red reflectors- Napa part-47TD. It fits perfectly and blows up when lite.
disc brake parts.webp
 
xtiaan2000 said:
I decided to use the 4runner calipers because Pighead had them!

I previously promised the part number for the rear red reflectors- Napa part-47TD. It fits perfectly and blows up when lite.
Click to expand...

And because Pablo told you about them, eh? ;)

Thanks for the p/n!
 
I have everthinng painted and ready to put together. Actually i am going to get the calipers red. I think it looks so racie! The only thing that I am anxious about are the preloads. some have used a fish scale...? Does anyone know where I can find all the torque settings on all the knuckle bolts and the hubs?

I am going to have to put the reasembly off till a week after the 11th to put it all together. I am getting on the Capitan again. A route called the North American Wall. Should take 5 days to get to the top. Wish me luck.

Here's the pictures.
all brk prts painted.webp
painted hub.webp
painted knickle.webp
 
pre loads

Got the passenger side all put together, at least to the hub. When I tighten the nut on the spindle the hub spins fine. When I loosen the nut the hub spins the same. When I finger tighten the nut the hub spins the same. When I really tighten the nut the hub spins the same.
Kind of lost on how tight I should get this preload. I used the fish scale method, but it seemed to be the same on many different tightnesses. And it seemed to well above the 10lbs that I had heard it needs to be at. :confused:

Other than that I am pretty stoked. I can't even imagine the difference in my stoping, and it looks pretty cool! No longer the hard swing to the left when applying the brakes. Makes me want to pull the whole axle out and clean and paint to make pretty, but I think that I'll wait till I do the power steering to get that done!

Any ideas on the hub pre load?!!!
 
You should feel the difference when you tighten the nut on the wheel bearing. Toyota Trails had a nice write-up in the Sept/Nov 12 issue;
" With the hub nut sockett, tighten down by hand the first nut as tight as you can. No wrench, just grab and turn the sockett y hand. Roll the hub around and tighten by hand again. This makes sure the bearing is seated. Now add an additional one-sixth of a turn tighter with the help of a ratchet attached to your hub socket. The simple way to get a sith of a turn is to watch a fixed point on the socket as it moves from one hub stud to the next - no math involved."

I tried this and it works great.
 
Not only does one get the disk brake feature, but the hardware is so much meatier! The outer axel is definitly thicker. I hear people refer to coarse vs fine splines. In the first picture is that what is being refered to? The spindle is bigger.. everything is chunkier! Stoked:clap:

I used the passenger side complete 62 axle, then separated the driver side and am in the process of connecting the iner 55 with the outer 62. Passenger side didn't seem too bad with the grinding. Hoping the same feelings for the driverside.

Tomorrow assemble the driverside and hopefully get to the bleeding process, with luck. Tomorrow I have off from work!

It was at the bottom of the front port that one removes the little limiter.
DSCN1077[1].webp
DSCN1078[1].webp
DSCN1079[1].webp
 
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