are you going to try to use the 62 driveshaft? i want to say the 60 series is longer, but my memory ain't what it used to be. i know you'll at least need the d/s flange if the diff doesn't have a round flange yoke.
rear body mounts
- Thread starter xtiaan2000
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are you going to try to use the 62 driveshaft? i want to say the 60 series is longer, but my memory ain't what it used to be. i know you'll at least need the d/s flange if the diff doesn't have a round flange yoke.
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- #182
I realized that the yoke was different. I don't have a 62 drive shaft, only my 55. I was hoping that I would be able to use the flange simply transfered or us the pinion from the 55 and just replace it into the 62 pumpkin...? Don't think I'll do any of this project if I have to shorten or lengthen the driveshaft tho.
If you're mounting the.axle.t in the same.spot, your distance wont change. Can't use your flange with 62 pinion....i62 is fine spline, 55 is course spline. Some 62s had round flanges, which can be drilled to match the 55 ds. You can put 55 pumpkin in the 62 housing
I wanna say the stock 55 shaft is w/in a 1/2 inch of my 60ish driveshaft on my manual 62 series, but the stock 62 is too short...55 3rd in 62 housing is a go, but to use the 62 3rd, you need to mod the shaft, redrill the flange or swap flanges via Marlin or Curt...paying attention to before and after preloads if not replacing the crush sleeve...I had a shaft made for the 62 conversion .w/o ujoints for 130..get the u joints...
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- #185
Thanks Thanks and more Thanks!
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- #186
I'll have pics as soon as I get there!
nuclearlemon said:
Plus there are 2 different length 60 series shafts, eh? The pre-85, and the '85-7 when they put the space on the back of the 4 spds to make them the same length as 5 spds.
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- #188
luv ur ideas
So I have two 3rd members- the 55 has an auburn ls, while the 62 doesn't. My idea is to use the 55 third instead of pulling out the auburn and putting it in the 62 third member. Good idea?
When I put it back in I didn't think to figure out which way would be up or which side the big gear goes on (short side or long side of the axle). Woops! My bad
This is a first time affair, like always.
Would love some suggestions on how to place the perches in the right places on the 62 housing. Know that I will be inboarding. Anybody know how far or what a good measuring system would be? I think that I will be moving it inboard some amount and then as well I will have to get the angle right.
So I have two 3rd members- the 55 has an auburn ls, while the 62 doesn't. My idea is to use the 55 third instead of pulling out the auburn and putting it in the 62 third member. Good idea?
When I put it back in I didn't think to figure out which way would be up or which side the big gear goes on (short side or long side of the axle). Woops! My bad
This is a first time affair, like always.
Would love some suggestions on how to place the perches in the right places on the 62 housing. Know that I will be inboarding. Anybody know how far or what a good measuring system would be? I think that I will be moving it inboard some amount and then as well I will have to get the angle right.
So I have two 3rd members- the 55 has an auburn ls, while the 62 doesn't. My idea is to use the 55 third instead of pulling out the auburn and putting it in the 62 third member. Good idea?
When I put it back in I didn't think to figure out which way would be up or which side the big gear goes on (short side or long side of the axle). Woops! My bad
This is a first time affair, like always.
Would love some suggestions on how to place the perches in the right places on the 62 housing. Know that I will be inboarding. Anybody know how far or what a good measuring system would be? I think that I will be moving it inboard some amount and then as well I will have to get the angle right.
the diff only goes in one way..the notch is for the ring gear. putting the 55 diff in will mean no mods to your driveshaft as long as the axle is the same distance back as your 55 axle was (only way to adjust that is move spring perches or redrill your centerbolt hole)
for the angle, i set the vehicle on the unwelded perches and loosely bolted everything up. with all the weight of the vehicle, you match the degrees on your two flanges (ex if trans flange shows 89.2 degrees, pinion flange should show close to or equal to -89.2 degrees). you can weld everything while it's in the vehicle. just make sure you've got the side to side locating down first (measure between perch and backing plate and both sides should be equal)
- Thread starter
- #190
Would it be safe to say, without getting into degrees, that if I bolt the driveshaft up while the axle is loosly in, I should have the pinion pointing straight at the transfer case? Maybe pointing a little above the trans case?
no, not unless you plan on putting in a cv shaft. you have to match angles at the flanges or it will throw everything out of balance. with a cv shaft, you can point it straight at the diff because the balance issue between the two joints is negated by the two joints in the cv section
What she said. If you plan on using the 55 DS, match the flange angles.
CV shaft I think is also known as Double Cardon (I may have spelled this incorrectly).
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- #193
always pics
I am horribly ignorant on part names, but I think that I have the cv joint or doulble cardon. This makes things easier if that is what I have right? Woops El Capitan in the back.
After googling a double cardon I don't thik that I have one...? What part is the flange. Is it pictured?
I am horribly ignorant on part names, but I think that I have the cv joint or doulble cardon. This makes things easier if that is what I have right? Woops El Capitan in the back.
After googling a double cardon I don't thik that I have one...? What part is the flange. Is it pictured?
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Sorry Man, That's just a single u-joint. A constant velocity joint has two u-joints mounted together.
in the tcase side, the flange is the drum. you have two flanges at each end...one on each end of the driveshaft, and then where they bolt to. if you had a chevy, you would have yokes instead.
so, drum is one flange. place an angle finder like this against it. compare it to the angle on the pinion flange. they should be opposite each other, within a degree or two.
so, drum is one flange. place an angle finder like this against it. compare it to the angle on the pinion flange. they should be opposite each other, within a degree or two.
example of a cv (constant velocity) or double cardan style driveshaft, in which case you would skip matching the angles and just point the pinion up.
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- #197
Thanks much. I think that I understand now. Those CVs look really cool though.
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- #198
I was moving my 3rd around the today and this fell out. What and where does this thing go? It looks like it has taken wear as well.
It looks like it has taken wear as well.- Thread starter
- #199
Now that look further it looks like it could be one of the outter bearing rollers. Maybe from a previous build because the current bearings look like all the rollers are there.
Jinkees! That can't be good!