Rear Axle Reseal Help/Question/Tips

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StaticTorque

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Aug 6, 2020
Threads
62
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Location
Portland Oregon
This weekend I am going to reseal the rear axle on my 96 Cruiser. It is a factory locked rig. I have read through the "How to" on Mud, and watched OTRAMM video a few times.
In his video he mentions locking the rear axle so that some parts don't fall down/out of place. How should I do that? He says to lock the rear and then pull the negative terminal off the battery. Is that supposed to be done while the rig is running? Turn the car off then undo the terminal?
These are some questions I could easily find out but I figured I'd ask here anyway. What kind of grease should I use when packing the bearings and putting the axle in? Also, what diff fluid should I use? TIA!
 
Not sure how much wrenching you have done on your truck but a rear axle seal replacement is a great place to start. Super simple but still needs some prep and a little understanding. As @devo says, make sure you have a copy of the FSM and just follow the steps exactly.
Absolutely make sure you lock the rear diff before you do anything- ignition on then turn the magic dial to lock the rears - don't assume they have locked - physically check it.
Good luck.
 
Everything you want to know is in the FSM
That is not exactly true.
There is an omission in the rear axle section of the FSM with regard to locking the rear (if equipped) before removing axle shafts.
 
This weekend I am going to reseal the rear axle on my 96 Cruiser. It is a factory locked rig. I have read through the "How to" on Mud, and watched OTRAMM video a few times.
In his video he mentions locking the rear axle so that some parts don't fall down/out of place. How should I do that? He says to lock the rear and then pull the negative terminal off the battery. Is that supposed to be done while the rig is running? Turn the car off then undo the terminal?
These are some questions I could easily find out but I figured I'd ask here anyway. What kind of grease should I use when packing the bearings and putting the axle in? Also, what diff fluid should I use? TIA!
Rear axle on jackstands.
Ignition on, engine not running.
Lock center diff.
Lock rear.
Make certain the rear is locked by rotating 1 tire until it engages.
The CDL lamp should be illuminated along with the rear locker lamp. Solid, not blinking.
Ignition off. Put key in pocket.
No need to disconnect anything.
 
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A while back I resealed the locked rear axle on a 94 FZJ without locking the diff. As far as I can tell, nothing fell out. Diff locks without issue.

Did I get lucky?
 
According to the FSM you only need to lock the differentials if you are removing the differential not pulling the axle shafts.

IMG_9175.webp


IMG_9174.webp
 
A while back I resealed the locked rear axle on a 94 FZJ without locking the diff. As far as I can tell, nothing fell out. Diff locks without issue.

Did I get lucky?
Very very lucky.
 
According to the FSM you only need to lock the differentials if you are removing the differential not pulling the axle shafts.

View attachment 4214177

View attachment 4214178
In order to remove the diff, you need to remove the axles first.

If you don't lock the rear diff before removing the axles, the slide collar can slip down into the diff housing and it will be impossible to reinstall the axles.
Since the FF rear doesn't have a removeable inspection cover, you're either cutting or torching to gain access. This is not a fun activity.
This only applies to the factory rear locker.
 
I thought everyone used a chisel and a 4–lb hammer
 
In order to remove the diff, you need to remove the axles first.

If you don't lock the rear diff before removing the axles, the slide collar can slip down into the diff housing and it will be impossible to reinstall the axles.
Since the FF rear doesn't have a removeable inspection cover, you're either cutting or torching to gain access. This is not a fun activity.
This only applies to the factory rear locker.
I guess I got lucky too lol
 
I made and use this. It works well 😁
1789584713390.webp

I think there’s a misconception here.
The shift collar can slip down, can is the key word here.
If it does your just remove this cover plate to gain access to get it back into position. easy peezy
1789585195124.webp

This is also one of the best things about the OEM lockers IMO. It the only locker that I know of that can be manually locked on the trail.

This is what were doing in this picture on Fordyce trail when the Actuator decided to act up.

Cheers
 
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Not sure how much wrenching you have done on your truck but a rear axle seal replacement is a great place to start. Super simple but still needs some prep and a little understanding. As @devo says, make sure you have a copy of the FSM and just follow the steps exactly.
Absolutely make sure you lock the rear diff before you do anything- ignition on then turn the magic dial to lock the rears - don't assume they have locked - physically check it.
Good luck.
I’ve done quite a bit of wrenching on my rig. But I have not tackled anything like this yet. I have a PDF copy of the FSM and I have a physical copy.
Okay thank you, it seemed like locking the rear differential was an important step.
Rear axle on jackstands.
Ignition on, engine not running.
Lock center diff.
Lock rear.
Make certain the rear is locked by rotating 1 tire until it engages.
The CDL lamp should be illuminated along with the rear locker lamp. Solid, not blinking.
Ignition off. Put key in pocket.
No need to disconnect anything.
I did not know you can lock without the car running. Thank you for letting me know.
Will I be able to spin the rears up in the air if the front is not up in the air?

@StaticTorque, Just in case you don't already own this tool, you'll need it for the lock ring when you remove, and reinstall your rear axle bearings.​

View attachment 4214230
Oh sh*t! Is that the tool to adjust the pre load for the lock nut? Because I did just forget to figure that step out.
 
I made and use this. It works well 😁
View attachment 4214268
I think the a misconception here.
The shift collar can slip down, can is the key word here.
If it does your just remove this cover plate to gain access to get it back into position. easy peezy
View attachment 4214269
This is also one of the best things about the OEM lockers IMO. It the only locker that I know of that can be manually locked on the trail.

This is what were doing in this picture on Fordyce trail when the Actuator decided to act up.

Cheers
What in the heck is that tool for?!
 
I did not know you can lock without the car running. Thank you for letting me know.
Will I be able to spin the rears up in the air if the front is not up in the air?
Yes. If the rear diff is not locked, the wheels will spin in opposite directions.
With center and rear locked, nothing can spin.
 
You may need to move the rig forwards or backwards a bit to get the center diff to lock.
Then spin one rear tire to get the rear differential to lock.
After that with both rear wheels off the ground you can put the transfer Case in neutral and spin the wheels they will both spin in the same direction if in fact the rear differential is locked.
 
"Which grease to use": Automotive wheel bearing grease that is NLGI #2 Lithium base

"Which diff fluid (gear oil) to use": Automotive gear oil that is GL5 Hypoid 80W-90 (doesn't matter if it is also for LS diffs in the locking or open diff models)

Everyone has their own favorites, take your pick



Follow the steps above on locking the rear diff but if you need a visual, here's a short video on engaging the locking differentials:








One more rear axle service video to watch (it does not discuss the locking diff steps, follow those from the posts above)


 
Make to use a JIS screw driver on those lock screws.
It’s even a good idea just to have new ones on hand 😉
Ask me how I know 😆
 
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