Rear axle not square to chassis

[Rackety]

I'm in the process of stripping the chassis and other related tasks on my 1982 BJ45 Troopy, European spec. I bought the vehicle in pieces, and it hasn't been on the road in 10-15 years - or so I've been told. Currently it looks like this:

When I got towards the back end, I noticed the spring hangers had been relocated. Normally those are riveted on, but these have been welded. I started looking at the axle and I could see with the naked eye that the passenger side looked a bit further forward, so I took some measurements. It's about 20mm (almost an inch) out of square at the point where the axle crosses the leaf (more at the wheel). I'm frankly not sure how it could have been driven without chewing through tires.

The top part of the original hanger was clearly pretty rusty at one point and it looks like a supplemental piece of 1/4" was added to buttress it. This is the same on both sides. Although not visible here, the welding extends under the frame as well.

The rear hangers have also been relocated, but as with the front hangers, it's difficult to tell how far they are from their original position.

So obviously the alignment issue needs to be fixed. There is some other frame repair that is probably beyond my skill and MIG welder to handle, so I've got a certified welder coming to do the dirty work - but I've got to figure out how to proceed, he's just going to do the welding.

My first and probably naive thought was just to cut/grind the driver's side hangers off, then match them precisely to the passenger side, tack them on and have the pro finish the job. But I don't know what I don't know. What does the hive mind think? I'm sure there are angles I'm not considering (pun intended!).

 

[Ditcherman]

I don't think it's naive at all if you've got the ability to relocate properly.
As a guy that's done some wild stuff with everything from semi trailers to bulldozer type final drives to 40's, I think your logic is sound and your ability to recognize your limitations shows wisdom, although you might be surprised in what you can do. Hiring the guy is also a great chance to learn, too.
If you know where they're supposed to be by all means cut and tack, I say.
Cutting it off will be the worst.
Someone else who's not a hack may have a totally different opinion.

 

[Rigger]

Is everything else about the frame okay? Is it tweaked or bent or repaired or anything?

Trying to understand why the PO would have messed this up.

But it seems reasonable to me to remove and reposition the hanger and weld it on so the axle sits straight and square with the world.

 

[pb4ugo]

This issue is not uncommon. The spring hangers cantilever are a weak spots on FJ4X's. Be sure the frame in that area isn't compromised. There are many more threads on this subject.

Thread 'Rear spring mount (FWD) frame crack repair.'

Apr 19, 2022

As many know the problem with pre 80's 40 frames cracking due to excessive flexing ( cold rivets) and lack of proper support on the cantilever spring mount.
This Arizona rig is cancer free and freshly sand blasted making it much easier to repair the crack and improve the spring mount design.

The crack was only on the inside lower flange of the boxed section. No crack noted to the main frame, however both drivers and passenger side were cracked.

The cracks where interrupted by the factory rivet notch.

It's clear from this angle the OEM low profile gusset does...

• firestopper
• Replies: 20
• Forum: 40- / 55-Series Tech

• 

Build Post in thread 'Putting the rust demon at bay'

May 11, 2025

This spring hanger frame crsck is not uncommon. Once the frame is fixed you should reinfoce the hanger. You can use the search function "spring hanger reinforcement " and come up with 3 pages on the subject. Here's one of them.

Rear spring mount (FWD) frame crack repair.

As many know the problem with pre 80's 40 frames cracking due to excessive flexing ( cold rivets) and lack of proper support on the cantilever spring mount. This Arizona rig is cancer free and freshly sand blasted making it much easier to repair the crack and improve the spring mount design...

forum.ih8mud.com

• pb4ugo

• 

 

[pb4ugo]

Looking at your frame more closely it appears a po has been busy welding in other spots. Im not a fan of welding bumpers on. I prefer bolting them on. Squaring up the hangers is good. I can see purchasing a welder in your future. Start with smaller projects 1st.

 

[knuckle47]

Also looks that at least you can un-bolt those welded front bumper mounts under the tow hooks and get back to stock mounting practices

 

[charliemeyer007]

Somewhere around here I have seen frame measurements. I would make sure it straight/square, then put stuff where it should be.

Bolted vs Welded vs Riveted - all have their strong points. I have seen more stuff ruined by folks who put grade 8 bolts in for shear pins, a 30 A breaker for 10....

Some people could ruin an anvil with a rubber mallet! Best you can hope for in design is fool resistant.

 

[Rackety]

This issue is not uncommon. The spring hangers cantilever are a weak spots on FJ4X's. Be sure the frame in that area isn't compromised. There are many more threads on this subject.

Thread 'Rear spring mount (FWD) frame crack repair.'

Apr 19, 2022

As many know the problem with pre 80's 40 frames cracking due to excessive flexing ( cold rivets) and lack of proper support on the cantilever spring mount.
This Arizona rig is cancer free and freshly sand blasted making it much easier to repair the crack and improve the spring mount design.

The crack was only on the inside lower flange of the boxed section. No crack noted to the main frame, however both drivers and passenger side were cracked.

The cracks where interrupted by the factory rivet notch.

It's clear from this angle the OEM low profile gusset does...

• firestopper
• Replies: 20
• Forum: 40- / 55-Series Tech

• 

Build Post in thread 'Putting the rust demon at bay'

May 11, 2025

This spring hanger frame crsck is not uncommon. Once the frame is fixed you should reinfoce the hanger. You can use the search function "spring hanger reinforcement " and come up with 3 pages on the subject. Here's one of them.

Rear spring mount (FWD) frame crack repair.

As many know the problem with pre 80's 40 frames cracking due to excessive flexing ( cold rivets) and lack of proper support on the cantilever spring mount. This Arizona rig is cancer free and freshly sand blasted making it much easier to repair the crack and improve the spring mount design...

forum.ih8mud.com

• pb4ugo

• 

Just read some of those - big thanks for posting. Interesting to note about the avoidance of perpendicular welding on the inboard frame face.

 

[Rackety]

Is everything else about the frame okay? Is it tweaked or bent or repaired or anything?

Trying to understand why the PO would have messed this up.

But it seems reasonable to me to remove and reposition the hanger and weld it on so the axle sits straight and square with the world.

There's a lot I don't understand about the PO's motivations, including why it got parked up in the first place. I asked some questions to the seller, who operated as a yard basically - he stripped the thing down to parts but to my knowledge never drove this vehicle, but his recall of the previous owner's actions was hazy. It sat outside with just the tub on it for a decade or more, amongst a collection of other 40s, 60s and 80s of various vintages.

I took the tub off and started stripping the UV-thrashed POR off it and found some interesting clues, but nothing concrete. One of the areas where a motor mount was attached was a little bent, but there isn't any torsion in the overall chassis or evidence of a collision that I've seen yet. There are fish plates (see pics) on the inside of the frame directly opposite the forward spring hangers, but they appear related to the degradation of frame wall in that area, it's a natural low point in the channel where a lot of rainwater, snow and debris would collect for an improperly stored vehicle. There's a front-mounted hitch receiver and I'd guess the actual PO was beach-launching a halibut skiff into Cook Inlet, so there may have been salt water ingress too. I have done a pretty good survey of the wall thickness of the chassis channel and there is really only one bad area, which is where this is all going on.

This is the other area that I'm going to have the professional welder repair.

 

[rlong]

You would be surprised how many vehicles have out of square rear axles (ive had one); you can see them when you drive behind them they “dog walk”, I was behind a full size truck a few weeks ago that the rear end of the truck that the rear end was 4-5 inches “left” of the front end (that would equate to probably 1” - 1 1/2” at the axle.

 

[brian]

You would be surprised how many vehicles have out of square rear axles (ive had one); you can see them when you drive behind them they “dog walk”, I was behind a full size truck a few weeks ago that the rear end of the truck that the rear end was 4-5 inches “left” of the front end (that would equate to probably 1” - 1 1/2” at the axle.

It was as bad as this looks.

 

[pb4ugo]

I figured it would be a Ford. I see it a lot in their vans.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Did you hear Lorrana Bobbit died in a car accident the other day; some d1ck cut her off.

 

[Rock40]

This may not be popular but if it was me, I’d fully strip that frame and get it media blasted. You’ve got some serious corrosion going on inside the frame rails and it may not be too late to cut it off and stop it. A good blaster will be able to force media up inside the frame and clean that stuff out. Eastwood sells products which allow you to run paint up inside the frame afterwards.

Your welder friend will thank you if it’s blasted because as it sits now, it’s not going to weld great. Blasting will also reveal every little goofball thing that the PO(s) did to it and then you can correct it. Here, it’s less than $200 to get that work done.

With the harsh AK environment you live in, taking the time to get the frame squared away and properly sealed against future corrosion is going to pay you dividends.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I'm in the process of stripping the chassis and other related tasks on my 1982 BJ45 Troopy, European spec. I bought the vehicle in pieces, and it hasn't been on the road in 10-15 years - or so I've been told. Currently it looks like this:


View attachment 4077161

The rear hangers have also been relocated, but as with the front hangers, it's difficult to tell how far they are from their original position.

Photos can be deceiving but those spring hangers look outboard of the frame. My '83 FJ45 Troopy front and rear hangers are directly underneath the frame. My WAG is that the PO put wider axles under the Troopy and widened the frame hangers instead of the axle connections. Maybe you have 80 series axles? Again, really just guessing here.

Edit: Apologies; please ignore my incorrect information above. I am in the middle of a frame off restoration on my 55 and obviously haven't spent enough quality time with the Troopy. Here are some photos of my rear spring hangers; hopefully these will help.

I guess if I were you I would try to locate the original rivet holes and weld the hangers back on in that location. Please let me know if you need any measurements. Unfortunately we are leaving this morning for a couple of weeks but happy to do so when we return.

Driver's side rear:

Driver's side front:

Passenger side front: