Rear Axle Leak

[Roosevelt T]

Probably a stupid question, but I assume you guys dont have that SST for pulling those inner axle seals. Do you just wrench them out with a flat head screwdriver or the like? The inside of that axle housing looks to be machined fairly nicely, I dont want to scratch it up.

 

[D21FJ60]

Following this, just started to hear a metallic "tick tick tick tick" from passenger rear when I drive. Passenger rear has a little bit of oil leakage on the backside. Is the 6 oclock and 9 oclock test the way to check rear bearings? Hoping bearing is OK and it is just the seal.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Replaced the inner seal on my passenger side axle as it was weeping. Also replaced the rear brake pads/rotors with OEM. Unfortunately, the seal now leaking worse than before, so It looks like I'm going to need to redo it. Hopefully it won't contaminate my new pads...

The bearing seems good, although I did notice some pick marks around the inner seal, so someone probably has been in the rear axle prior, which is concerning. I'll try to get some pictures when I attempt round 2.

I'm tempted to bring it to a Toyota dealer and make it their problem, but I have zero confidence they would get this job right the first time.

 

[thebeedeegee]

Replaced the inner seal on my passenger side axle as it was weeping. Also replaced the rear brake pads/rotors with OEM. Unfortunately, the seal now leaking worse than before, so It looks like I'm going to need to redo it. Hopefully it won't contaminate my new pads...

The bearing seems good, although I did notice some pick marks around the inner seal, so someone probably has been in the rear axle prior, which is concerning. I'll try to get some pictures when I attempt round 2.

I'm tempted to bring it to a Toyota dealer and make it their problem, but I have zero confidence they would get this job right the first time.

I had the most trouble trying to get the rear axle seal seated correctly. They just bend up so easily. Hell, it was still warped on the last one I tried, but somehow it doesn't leak anymore.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

I had the most trouble trying to get the rear axle seal seated correctly. They just bend up so easily. Hell, it was still warped on the last one I tried, but somehow it doesn't leak anymore.

I had similar issues, I ordered 4 of the seals and ended up destroying the first one trying to get it seated properly. I assumed I seated the last one correctly but obviously not since it's leaking bad.

 

[nissanh]

I had similar issues, I ordered 4 of the seals and ended up destroying the first one trying to get it seated properly. I assumed I seated the last one correctly but obviously not since it's leaking bad.

I have done the rear seal/bearings on ABS ring mounted shafts (whats in LC). If you are doing the bearing, you want to make sure the ABS ring retainer is centered to the oil seal lip. There is a video Timmy the tool man did on youtube for a 3rd gen 4runner rear axle bearing/seal replacement, and he uses a permanent marker (sharpie test) to ascertain the lip of the seal rides right on the ABS retainer ring.

When driving the seal, you have to use a heavy hammer to tap it in. make sure you mount the seal symmetrical and with a seal driver press the seal in with a good blow to the seal driver tool.

Also, note, that OEM seal has a steel surroundings, so it won't bend easily, and non-OEM seal has just iron surrounding and bends easily.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

I have done the rear seal/bearings on ABS ring mounted shafts (whats in LC). If you are doing the bearing, you want to make sure the ABS ring retainer is centered to the oil seal lip. There is a video Timmy the tool man did on youtube for a 3rd gen 4runner rear axle bearing/seal replacement, and he uses a permanent marker (sharpie test) to ascertain the lip of the seal rides right on the ABS retainer ring.

When driving the seal, you have to use a heavy hammer to tap it in. make sure you mount the seal symmetrical and with a seal driver press the seal in with a good blow to the seal driver tool.

Also, note, that OEM seal has a steel surroundings, so it won't bend easily, and non-OEM seal has just iron surrounding and bends easily

I didn't change the bearing, just the inner seal. What seal driver are you using? I'm using OEM seals, they do seem easy to bend though.

I'm also concerned about the scrape marks I found around the seal, maybe gear oil is getting through those. Not sure if those can even be repaired, may need to replace the entire axle housing if the leaks persist.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Update: I am stupid.

Good news is that the rear axle is not leaking anymore, its actually the banjo fitting on the brake caliper. Should have taken the time to look up the FSM torque figures (22 ft-lbs).

 

[OEMGUY0720]

did mine a few days ago for the 3rd time. took out the seal and o-ring, replaced it with brand new oem ones. but this time I took a different approach (besides from putting the seal in the freezer overnight and using an old oil filter with same diameter as the seal to properly seat it inside the diff housing), I noticed there was a considerable amount of oxidation and rust on the surface where the differential housing meets the rear hub. I carefully cleaned and leveled that surface with a wire brush attachment on my hand drill until it was smooth. I also applied die electric grease on the o-ring so it wouldn't twist as the rear hub mates with the diff housing. been driving it for close to 100 miles now and so far no weep traces of diff oil. hope this does the trick. will update next week and will dd it to rack up miles on it.

 

[Rvp]

Just to update the thread, I changed out these two parts (o-ring and seal) and it seems to have fixed my leak! Axle bearing was in good shape.

Hey Bud, I want to replace these two as well, do i still follow the same procedures listed in the "Toyota Timmy Video"? or is there a write up i can check out? Thanks

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Update: 600+ miles after driving it Vegas to SoCal and back, still no leak and it’s bone dry.

Just make sure this area with the white arrow doesn’t have any rust spots on it (high spots) preventing the two surfaces from making an air tight seal.

The third pull down was a charm.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Just wanted to clarify, does the ABS sensor have to be removed from the axle housing before the axle is pulled out? If so, does anyone have the part number for the o-ring on it? I have looked at all the parts diagrams and cant find it anywhere.

 

[Gnarwgn]

Thanks everyone for this great thread, super helpful -

So appears I'm in the club with my passenger rear axle seal leaking. I don't know if any of the following is a coincidence, but mounted 305/65/18 KO2's on 18" Tundra wheels about 2k miles ago. Also added 1.25" Bora spacers. Wondering if that is putting crazy stress on the axle/seals, but have not seen any commentary from anyone in the 305/65/18 thread suggesting this is a theme. In addition, my wife had the parking break engaged for about 10 miles at freeway speeds the other day, which is the same day the issue showed up. Parking break wasn't that tight obviously, but wondering if it somehow superheated the axle and melted the seal or something. Feels like this is the more likely culprit.

Anyway - based on a couple reports in this string of the problem being resolved by replacing parts 90310-58002 (seal, type s oil) and 90301-85004 (ring, o) - should I start there to see if it fixes the issue, and dive deeper if issue persists thereafter? Would appreciate any top tips from the rear axle veterans out there for my rookie attempt #1 here! Thanks.

 

[awesomeissquid]

I am in the same place as you and going to give the easy to replace parts a try first this weekend. I think the question of will that work really depends on how the bearing looks once everything is taken apart. A worn bearing with a lot of play I believe damages the inner seal and causes the leak that washes the grease out of it. This just causing the bearing to wear further. If the bearing is tight then we might be able to get away with just replacing the easy stuff.

For me, I went ahead and ordered all the extra goodies since the price was right with shipping from partsouq. Just hoping to get some clarification on the ABS sensor since I have seen some mentions that it can be left in and others that it needs to be removed.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Just wanted to clarify, does the ABS sensor have to be removed from the axle housing before the axle is pulled out? If so, does anyone have the part number for the o-ring on it? I have looked at all the parts diagrams and cant find it anywhere.

If you have a local toyota dealer, they can actually help you identify and get that rubber o-ring part for the abs sensor.

Yes the bearing plays a big role on the leak. Luckily mine wasn’t loose, no play at all. Another key factor in installing the inner seal is using the correct tool. I used an oil oil filter from my honda fit and that has the perfect diameter to match the diameter of the inner seal, it also has a rubber seal to make it a little mild on the seal when pounding it back in.

 

[Skidoo]

If the oil is leaking out at end of the axle you probably need the outer seal 90313-62001 also.
Another issue is the bearing is factory greased and when inner seal falls the gear oil will wash the grease out of the bearing.
The bearing life without the grease is pretty short. Some other good threads here on the topic.

 

[awesomeissquid]

If you have a local toyota dealer, they can actually help you identify and get that rubber o-ring part for the abs sensor.

Yes the bearing plays a big role on the leak. Luckily mine wasn’t loose, no play at all. Another key factor in installing the inner seal is using the correct tool. I used an oil oil filter from my honda fit and that has the perfect diameter to match the diameter of the inner seal, it also has a rubber seal to make it a little mild on the seal when pounding it back in.

Yea reaching out to the dealer is the next step. I was hoping someone here who has done this would be able to confirm if the sensor needs to be removed. I’m assuming it does unless someone can shine some light.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Yea reaching out to the dealer is the next step. I was hoping someone here who has done this would be able to confirm if the sensor needs to be removed. I’m assuming it does unless someone can shine some light.

Removing the abs sensor is optional, not required. But the hard brake line is necessary to service the inner rear axle seal and/or rear axle bearing.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Removing the abs sensor is optional, not required. But the hard brake line is necessary to service the inner rear axle seal and/or rear axle bearing.

Thanks for confirming.

 

[spressomon]

Apart of taking proper care of the rear axle assembly, be certain the housing vent is working. Long ago I followed advice from high performance crowd and went with larger tubing, etc. The OEM end fitting can easily get corroded to the point it slows or stops the exchange of air pressure...and that exacerbates the seal issue some of us have had/are having.

As you may have read, I went back to dino gear lube (Lucas) years ago after running synthetic. Most if not all manufacturers of high end racing differentials/differential axle & housing systems have gone back to dino gear lube for the same reason: Synthetic has a propensity to get past seals...

I run 305/75R18 tires...and, knock on wood, since going back to dino lube & re-doing the diff vent system (avoid flat runs of tubing for starters and eliminate the troublesome OEM end fittings) I have not had another axle seal issue.

@Gnarwgn running your parking brake had nothing to do with the axle seal failure.

Those of you doing your own press work for the first time, be sure to remember to clock the position of the backing plate. Reno Toyota has provided solid seal R&R service for me at a reasonable price in the past. I just remove the offending axle and take it in to them...that saves labor $ and is a quick and easy thing to do (1-1/2 for most with a modicum of mechanical apptitude) and speeds up the turn-around time at the dealer. I would find a Toyota dealer/mechanic that has done at least several of this exact job before trusting them...a little advance interview work will potentially save you from doing it again in short order: Been there, done that.