Rear Axle Leak

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So - found a local shop familiar with the issue, $240 later switched out my inner seal for me within a day. Not thrilled to pay $240 for $5 in parts, but this one felt like it was outside of my wheelhouse and I needed the rig back quick. Shop was Loranger's Auto for anybody reading this locally. Fingers crossed it was the issue.
 
^ Surprised it was only "$5 parts". And the labor amount was cheap! Didn't replace the bearing? Was the mechanic able to pry the bearing seal off without destroying it and verify it had adequate grease, etc?
 
What is the average cost to replace these seals? I saw $500 on one post, $1k in another. Am just looking to do the passenger side but don’t really have the time to do this myself unfortunately. Not sure how long it’s been leaking as I just noticed it 2 weeks ago when I was getting my tires rotated...hopefully bearing is still good but if not, how much more would that add? Tia
 
What is the average cost to replace these seals? I saw $500 on one post, $1k in another. Am just looking to do the passenger side but don’t really have the time to do this myself unfortunately. Not sure how long it’s been leaking as I just noticed it 2 weeks ago when I was getting my tires rotated...hopefully bearing is still good but if not, how much more would that add? Tia

I replaced the outer seals myself for like $30 or $40.

If it's inner seals and you can remove the axle yourself I can't imagine it should be more than a couple hundred. If bearings are bad maybe $500?
 
I just got mine done at the dealer yesterday. I supplied the parts from partsouq and they did the labor. $400 out the door. I did get an estimate of $300 from another Indy shop, but they were booked out pretty far.
 
thanks guys. one of the dealerships quoted me $501 for bearing/seals for one side and that included the parts ($283 in labor and $180 in parts, plus tax). I'll have to call again and confirm this as I wasn't too confident w/ the girl I spoke with that told me this. should I be concerned with anything else such as brake pads or e-brake shoes?
 
called the dealership again and was able to talk to my service advisor (they service my 4Runner - Atlanta Toyota). he quoted me $540 for labor only and about $1k with parts (including bearing). another Toyota dealership (Roswell Toyota) quoted me $750 for 5 hours of labor. also called an Indi that's by my house (LexTech) and they wouldn't even give me a quote unless I bring it in and have a diagnosis done for $160. looks like I'll be ordering parts myself.
 
Yea my dealer wanted $1100 for one side if I didn't provide the parts. Just double check that your dealer is okay with you supplying the parts. Mine was, but some other shops I spoke with were not. Totally makes sense since they don't know where the parts came from.
 
called another indie that I found recommended here (Merriam automotive) and they quoted $400 in labor or $775 w/ parts. going w/ them and just placed my parts order through partouq. thanks all!
 
So I ended up hitting the nuclear button and taking it into Toyota to get fixed, due to needing the rig for an upcoming 2k mile roadtrip and not finding an alternative shop locally that seemed to be familiar with our special real axle. Also everyone around here is super booked out and I was getting dangerously close to becoming the world's least popular dad if I didn't have the rig online for the roadtrip. The one advantage of this option is that Toyota warranties the parts/work nationwide, so if I have issues down the road at least there is a solution, in theory.

That being said - I was initially planning to take to an independent local shop, so I also ordered the axle kit from partsouq which is now sitting unopened in my garage. I plan to return the kit, but if anybody needs it I'd happily send it your direction. See attached invoice. I have 2x of each part as follows (the invoice shows 1x for two parts, I had ordered the other two separately in an earlier order and still have them if that makes sense):

90313-62001 x2

90301-85004 x2

90369-48001 x2

90208-48002 x2

42423-60030 x2

42423-60040 x2

90310-58002 x2
 

Attachments

I have a 1999 had the same leak, drivers side rear. I only changed these two seals and done! Been over a year and never leaked again. All my bearing were in good shape, no play etc.

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Hey i'm tryingto tackle the same repair you did i already ordered the parts you did, was there a video or some sort of instructions you used to complete this? Thanks
 
Curious if anyone has had success doing this job with the 12 ton harbor freight press. I know the puller is designed specifically for the bed width on the 20 ton but wondering if it’s possible with the smaller press.
 
I had a rear axle seal leaking, so I pulled the axle and replaced the seal and large o-ring. My axle is still leaking, so I dug into it again last night and did the sharpie test and found the seal was working correctly per the photos below. What I am seeing is a gap between the outside (output) flange of the axle and the plate that the bearing is pressed into (second photo). The wheel bearing appears to be new and is nice and tight, so I suspect this is the result of the axle not being pressed far enough through the wheel bearing when the rear wheel bearings where done.

View attachment 2341911

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1st Photo: I ordered the kit from Cruiser Outfitters, bought a 20-ton press along with all necessary tools and accessories on Ebay from Duane, aka donald-the-bonald and set out to rebuild the DS rear axle and now I'm having this same issue with mine. Do we know how, or why, this happens? I was thinking that maybe I put a little too much grease around the outer seal which might've created an air pocket, possibly pushing it out as I did the press work? I don't know but I'm hoping someone might've come up with a way to get it seated without pulling everything apart? I tried to get it seated by taking two flat head screwdrivers and working my way around trying to pry it down/inward and appeared to make some headway only to realize that it was just popping back up/out on the opposite side. Hopefully someone has an idea or experienced success here without starting over.

2nd Photo: Also, I did the sharpie test, see 2nd photo, and I'm very close to where the witness mark was on the old inner retainer but wanted to get opinions on whether it'd be worth pressing any further?

Also, I can't speak highly enough about Duane, his customer service or his products. I received the puller, tone ring adapter and bolts and got to work immediately only to find that the width of the press bed on my newly purchased (7/25/2022) 20-ton press from Harbor Freight was 100.83mm and the width of the top plate on the pooler tool was 101.64mm. I let him know and he replied immediately and said he had previously gone and measured multiple HF press's, ranging from 105-106MM, and designed his tool from those measurements but it had been a while. So apparently the HF press's have some variance or they possibly tweaked their design a bit. He told me to go ahead and grind the sides down so that I can get the work done and that he would drop another one from his inventory the following morning, which he did. Fast forward to pressing out the bearing I had the common issue of the outer bearing race separating, staying on the axle shaft. I tried to use my bearing puller from HF that I already on hand but found that it did not open wide enough to capture the remaining race. I asked him if he'd had any experience with this issue and he said he had not but that if I sent him the diameter of the base of the axle he would make a prototype tool and sell it to me at his cost, which I believe he will soon be able to offer this tool as well. He had a 62mm adapter fab'd up that day and dropped it in the mail the following morning. Apologies for the lengthy post but I really wanted to share my experience with Duane. I hate spending money and typically think up ways around it but his vehicle specific tools work for my wife's LX and my 3rd gen 4Runner so I pulled the trigger and I'm EXTREMELY glad I did.

**Edit/Update to my original post**
- In order to use this tool on my 3rd gen 4Runner I had to purchase the bearing installer tool, see link below, which is also offered by Duane. If you let him know in advance he will put everything together in one package so you only get charged once for shipping.

Here are the links to the tools I bought from Duane's Ebay store:
- Axle Bearing Puller Toyota Land Cruiser J100 Series LX470 w/Tone Ring tool
- Bearing Installer Tool for Toyota Rear Wheel Bearing 4Runner Tacoma Tundra T100

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So his LC 100 tool going to work with a 3rd gen too? I also had good experience with Duane. Few years ago, I sent him a template of a LC 100 stud pattern to make a kit for the 100. I used his 3rd gen kit and got my 97 4R aaxles done and worked great! Also, Tim's sharpie test is crutial for a complete axle job!
 
What is the average cost to replace these seals? I saw $500 on one post, $1k in another. Am just looking to do the passenger side but don’t really have the time to do this myself unfortunately. Not sure how long it’s been leaking as I just noticed it 2 weeks ago when I was getting my tires rotated...hopefully bearing is still good but if not, how much more would that add? Tia
I paid 150 total. 75 of that was machine shop. I also had already purchased the OEM parts.
 
@prum jerry If you can edit your post, please include the link to Duane's webpage or web store. It would help others to source the tool.

From your picture- the witness mark looks as if the inner seal is isn't centered - could be pressed in a few more mm
 
So his LC 100 tool going to work with a 3rd gen too? I also had good experience with Duane. Few years ago, I sent him a template of a LC 100 stud pattern to make a kit for the 100. I used his 3rd gen kit and got my 97 4R aaxles done and worked great! Also, Tim's sharpie test is crutial for a complete axle job!

@nissanh Yes, you can use Axle Bearing Tool on your 3rd gen and 100 Series but you do have to purchase the additional Bearing Installer Tool. I updated my original post to reflect this and also included the link.

@prum jerry If you can edit your post, please include the link to Duane's webpage or web store. It would help others to source the tool.

From your picture- the witness mark looks as if the inner seal is isn't centered - could be pressed in a few more mm

@abuck99 Thanks for the heads up, I included links to both products I bought from Duane with the more pertinent 100 Series specific Axle Bearing Puller on top.
 
Removed DS rear axle to change the inner seal. I checked the breather and it was fine. Used the opportunity to extend it to near gas cap.
There is no bearing movement. Hopefully new seal will do the trick.
It is still bit of mystery why it started leaking. I had changed the fluids back in May with Mobil 75w-90. Perhaps it was time.

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Were you using synthetic before you changed it? Some have had leaks occur when they switched to synthetic that stopped when they went back to conventional.

If that’s not it then the bearing likely is damaged and wore out the seal. The bearing play may not be noticeable.
 
Were you using synthetic before you changed it? Some have had leaks occur when they switched to synthetic that stopped when they went back to conventional.

If that’s not it then the bearing likely is damaged and wore out the seal. The bearing play may not be noticeable.
Not exactly sure what was used before.
Interestingly enough one side is dry. So the oil theory is probably out at this time.
I will keep an eye after changing the seal.
 
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