Rear Axle Leak (1 Viewer)

[od4x4]

I left out some important information... 500 was just one side and did not include parts.

I think that my plan is to purchase bearings and just replace. It will be a good baseline project and I own a Tundra and have family with 3rd gen 4runners so the tools will not go to waste.

 

[nissanh]

^^^^ Are you on T4R.ORG?
I too own a 97 4runner and its rear axle bearing has a bit of a play at 210K miles but the 00 Cruiser with 225K miles got zero play in the rear axle bearings.
Use only OEM bearings. Any aftermarket (NSK, NACHI, SKF, even though Nachi is the OEM supplier) will be tight upon sliding it to the axle shaft. Only the OEM bearing spins smoothly once installed on to the axle.
I plan to get HF 20 ton press and cut a rear axle in half to get that tube-like tool.

 

[87warrior]

Does the 4 Runner share the same bolt pattern on the bearing housing as the 100? I had considered buying a junk 4Runner axles to cut up and use as the SST, but I couldn't verify the bolt patterns were the same.

At 275k miles on a basically stock 100, I have no play (measured by sight/feel) in the rear wheel bearings. However, I will replace the bearing when I do the seals simply due to the mileage.

I have the HF 20 ton press. It should work, even with the long side axle shaft. If not, lifting the press would be easy. I ordered the OTC 095212501101 tool since I didn't want to build one. Now to place an order with Mr. T for the parts.

 

[nissanh]

^^
No, the bolt pattern in the 4runner is different from the cruiser.
Did you measure the vertical free play?
I am bit surprised to hear the bearing at 275K is still good. But again, Land Cruiser and Nissan Patrol are the only trucks that are made with superb quality parts.

 

[Skidoo]

If the outer seal is leaking that probably means the inner seal is leaking. The bearing has heavy grease in it, if the inner seal leaks you will get gear oil in bearing compartment. Also a leaking outer seal can let in dirt and water that will trash bearing.
On one of the rear axle threads I posted, that I glued in the outer seal, you will want to find that thread to see if you encounter the same issue.
I watched the guy do the press work on mine and if I have to do it again I will make the press tools.

 

[f5driver]

I had a dual rear axel leak years ago. The dealer repaired but the leak quickly returned and back to the dealer it went. That's a full seal and bearing replacement the dealership had to R&R. Ouch. I suggested they use FIPG to the inner and outer seals. That did the trick and no leaks since.

 

[planomateo]

^^^^ Are you on T4R.ORG?
I too own a 97 4runner and its rear axle bearing has a bit of a play at 210K miles but the 00 Cruiser with 225K miles got zero play in the rear axle bearings.
Use only OEM bearings. Any aftermarket (NSK, NACHI, SKF, even though Nachi is the OEM supplier) will be tight upon sliding it to the axle shaft. Only the OEM bearing spins smoothly once installed on to the axle.
I plan to get HF 20 ton press and cut a rear axle in half to get that tube-like tool.

Contemplating this myself. My daughters 4R is leaking, so gonna be deciding on buying all this myself or just taking this to a local shop to have them press the bearings/seals/skid control ring off and then on. Only gonna hit me for about 2.5 hours of labor.

The toyota axle adapter and axle bearing puller could be reused for both 100s if I ever need them. The press and sleeves could come in handy for a few other items in the future.

 

[nissanh]

^^^
The Oil seal in the 4R has been updated and in the video I posted, they switch the lock sleeve direction. Make sure to do that. Get a press from HF and you are good to go.
Also, OEM bearings is the only way forward.

 

[planomateo]

^^^
The Oil seal in the 4R has been updated and in the video I posted, they switch the lock sleeve direction. Make sure to do that. Get a press from HF and you are good to go.
Also, OEM bearings is the only way forward.

Yeah, only way I roll I watched that video yesterday, was looking on TR4.ORG. Looks easy enough, dealer wants like $1000 for one side plus a brake job.

Biggest issue is I'm buying that adapter sleeve, which is essentially a one time buy (hopefully). The rest of the stuff is reusable.

 

[Heraldo]

Does anybody know the OEM part number for the rear seals and bearings?

 

[guardcompany]

90313-62001 Oil Seal
90369-48001 Wheel Bearing
90310-58002 Axle Shaft Oil Seal
90520-44038 Bearing Retainer Lock Ring
90208-48002 Oil Seal Spacer

Let me know if you need the full list.

 

[Heraldo]

90313-62001 Oil Seal
90369-48001 Wheel Bearing
90310-58002 Axle Shaft Oil Seal
90520-44038 Bearing Retainer Lock Ring
90208-48002 Oil Seal Spacer

Let me know if you need the full list.

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question. I am buying the parts from an OEM parts website that I have used before.

If I may ask, what may constitute me needing the 'full list'?

 

[wvrx]

Are there any writeups for the DIY'er? I just found my rear passenger rotor/hub soaked in presumably gear oil, looks like it's been leaking for quite some time. Would love to DIY if possible but if changing the seal requires a press I would have no choice but to take it to a shop...

 

[Heraldo]

Are there any writeups for the DIY'er? I just found my rear passenger rotor/hub soaked in presumably gear oil, looks like it's been leaking for quite some time. Would love to DIY if possible but if changing the seal requires a press I would have no choice but to take it to a shop...

It does require a press.

 

[wvrx]

This is what it looks like:

Is just the outer seal replaceable without a press? My bearings are great, no play but it is spitting out oil onto the rotor.

 

[toy_tek]

This is what it looks like:

Is just the outer seal replaceable without a press? My bearings are great, no play but it is spitting out oil onto the rotor.

No. The entire shaft / backing plate / bearing case need to be disassembled to get to the outer seal. Further, the inner seal is what has been compromised to allow the oil from the axle housing and past the axle shaft.

I would clarify Heraldo's post above: changing the inner seal does not require a press, changing the bearing or outer seal requires press work.

My $.02:

However, if you've caught the leak early enough, you may consider just pulling the axle out and replacing the inner seal only. That's probably less than $10 and 2 hours if you've never done it before. The gamble then is: if there is sufficient grease remaining in the bearing? Chances are it will be compromised, but it still may be years before the bearing wears out. Replacing the inner seal only can allow time to plan the full bearing replacement when resources are better available.

 

[mmaakk]

I have a 1999 had the same leak, drivers side rear. I only changed these two seals and done! Been over a year and never leaked again. All my bearing were in good shape, no play etc.

 

[toy_tek]

I have a 1999 had the same leak, drivers side rear. I only changed these two seals and done! Been over a year and never leaked again. All my bearing were in good shape, no play etc.

Thats what I'm talkin about

 

[spressomon]

Curious, those who have experienced the rear axle leaks: Running dino or syn diff lube?

 

[guardcompany]

My leak started with stock dino and then I redid it and did full syn and the leak came back within 2 weeks. Turns out the first shop that pressed the axle didn't press it on enough (just barely) so it leaked again. Then I went to an experienced Land Cruiser shop and they did it correct and filled it with stock dino and no leaks for a year now. The more I learn about these vehicles the more I understand that if it's not something I want to do, take it to someone who has experience.