Rear Axle Leak

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O

od4x4

10 Year
Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Threads
10
Messages
186
Location
Chowchilla, CA
A little back story:

2001 Land Cruiser

I recently installed an IronMan list and new steel Tundra rims with 275/70/18 KO2s. Within a week the front axles begaan to leak and the inner boots had some cracks so I decided to reboot.

Let's just say that I had some problems and blew a hole in an inner boot because I hit it to hard with the doweling.

I removed the axle and ordered the parts to reboot the inside again but the Land Cruiser sat with the passenger side on jack stands for a week to keep oil from leaking out of the axle tube. This might be where my problem starts...

Drove the Cruiser over 300 miles this weekend and my wife drove it to work for the last two days. Tonight I crawled underneath to check everything and noticed fluid on the drivers side rear rim. My first thought was breaks but fluid levels look good and the fluid smells like oil not brake fluid.

So my question:

I have read that replacing rear seals and bearings will more than likely need to be done by a dealer... not wanting to spend a ton of money right now.... is it possible that the leak is because the vehicle sat at at an angle all week and that the seals might not be compromised?

And is I need to have axle work... is this time to also install an ARB?!?

Tom
 
Just wanted to say that if you are capable of rebooting the CV axles yourself, then you can probably handle the rear axle bearings/seals. I am a pretty average mechanic, and I was able to do them. I only needed a machine shop to press the bearings and ABS rings.

Seems unlikely to me that the seal would leak from sitting on a jack stand, even for a week. But as I said, I'm an average mechanic...
 
That is what I was afraid of... I have a 800 mile trip planned in 2 weeks and we were hoping to take the Land Cruiser but maybe not now. Luckily the Tundra is every bit as nice to drive if not quite as water proof!

Is there a good how to in this? I searched and found a couple but nothing that makes me comfortable that I can do it in my limited garage. I have never work on a rear axle on anything other than a full float jeep. While those are pretty simple... for some reason I am scared to work on the Land Cruisers rear since I keep reading about the rear seal pushing the axle out if not seatet properly. Maybe it is just because I don't understand exactly what that means... but an axle being pushed out doesn't sound like a good thing!
 
Pull the axles out and install new OEM toyota seals and reinstall everything back again. It is best to remove the dust/grease cover (plastic) on the leaking side bearing and add some grease and put back the cover.

Watch this video:
It is on a 4runner but very similar to TLC 100. You'll need the grease check to find the proper mounting of the oil seal inside the axle housing. It is best to note the location of the oil oil seal location BEFORE removing it.
(Thanks goes to Tim in T4R.org)

The LC bearings are rock solid. I pulled few axles of LC 100s and their bearings were nearly new. It is wise to check your axle bearings by LIFTING the flange (rim mounting surface) up and down and feel any free-play. It will go in and out of the main axle housing but never vertical. A free play is a bad bearing.

I also deal with 4runners and Tacoma's but the bearings in these trucks wear out faster than the TLC. We all know LC parts are made to last 25 years.
 
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If you're in the market for a locker, definitely replace the inner and outer seals while the axles are out and the 3rd is out. I think it added less than $50 to my locker install. And- if considering a locker: save yourself the cost and trouble of adding compressor, lines, and future air leaks and get a Harrop E-locker. Wished I had gone that route.

I think @spressomon had some good experience on axle seal replacement and posted some good advice. You might search that.
 
Here's what I know: I H8 the SF rear axle system in our UZJ00s. If there's a verb stronger than "hate" ... I need it :D
 
Thanks, @abuck99 , for an unpaid endorsement..... :)

Couple of thoughts on air lockers and Harrop Eaton ELockersTM:

1 - It is never too late. We offer a "Air Locker Remove & Replace Program" for owners of air lockers. A $75 rebate to help an air locker owner owner get rid of all that stuff. If you can document purchase, install and replacement of an air locker, we will pay you $75 after the Harrop is installed in your rig. Just buy the locker from one of our installing shops, get it installed and we will send you a check.

2 - Shop Trash Talk: We have heard reports that some shops say bad things about Harrops when folks go shopping. Comments vs. air have to do with failures, weakness, etc. After delivering over 300 Harrops in the Americas over the last several years, we have had zero failures or service issues following installation. We have searched diligently but can find no pattern of failure or complaint by actual/verified Harrop owners. On Australian failure four years ago under normal use, which was covered by the vendor. A few hard use failures but the lockers were not operated within normal parameters (high speed operation with sharp turns, actuation under power, etc.). Shop comments may be based upon economic / product bias, wholesaler pressure or ignorance / confusion. Early Eatons had problems with two-pinion design, cast components, etc. and they may be confusing products. Harrops have four pinions, forged components, etc. As Reagan said, "trust but verify" and ask for proof.

3 - Install like air lockers.Harrops are very similar to air units when it comes to installation, except for the needed accessories below.

OK, hijack over, back to tech talk. :)


upload_2017-4-26_7-8-29.webp
 
Honestly I was not looking for a locker right now since this is still my wife's daily driver... but if this is a good justification (excuse?) for the CFO then why not right?

I have read some of @spressomon writeups about these axles and honestly that is why I am a litttle concerned about tackling myself. If someone with this level of knowledge has so many concerns then who am I to think that I can do this myself?!? AND remember that this is my wife's daily driver so reliability is key.

Do you guys think that this is something that I can trust any dealer to do? Not a lot of experience down here with Land Cruisers ... or do I reach out to Valley Hybrids (only an hour and a half north) since they can probably do this with their eyes closed?
 
@Skidoo was able to R&R his rear axle. But, at minimum, you will need some basic press-work/wrenching skills, a floor standing press and the press tools. Reno Toyota and American Toyota have both done R&R on my rear axles. I removed the axle assembly, relatively quick and easy, and just took it in to the dealer (Reno); typically 1-2 day turnaround.

I suggest stopping by your Toyota dealer and talking to at least a Service Advisor to determine if they have done one before ;). Not speaking for Valley Hybrids but last time I checked he was a month out on appts.
 
How much labor do you save by taking the just axles in? 2hrs maybe?
 
I have a weeping seal on the passenger side. Recently discovered this during a brake job. I've studied and read through every thread regarding the seal replacement here on mud and have read through the FSM many times. The job seems simple enough, if you have the SST for the press work or have the ability to make your own SST. These are put together similarly to Jeep semi floaters but require many more parts. In fact, the hard parts to R&R the seal will run near $150 from a discount OEM supplier.

I contacted the nearest Toyota dealer about the press work and their quote was outrageous, nearly the cost of the SST. I'll soon be buying the SST to do my axle seals with the help from my Harbor Freight press. I'd be willing to share/rent/loan/barrow the SST to others if I could figure out a good way to do it.
 
If the bearings are good, why you have to replace those?

spressomon: I used to live in Reno (went to UNR). Great town to live!
 
Ok I am starting to feel a little better about this. I do have bearing play on the leaking side... even without lifting the vehicle off the ground there is movement at the hub and a slight clunk when I push and pull the top of the tire.

@nissanh Have you don't the work according to the video and used AXLE BEARING PULLER TOYOTA to do the press work? I did put in a call to two local dealerships and both were over $500 with me pulling the axle and bringing it in. If this tool really works on he Land Cruiser and can pull the retainer and ABS rings so. That no grinding is required then I think Imcan do this. If I need to grind off the retainer then I might still have someone else do the press work.
 
Od4x4-

How many miles?

Lifted rig?

Added armor?: bumpers, sliders etc.

How much do you wheel?

Interested to know more details on the seal & potential bearing wear.
 
235,000 miles with very little harsh off-road. The vehicle was just recently lifted and and new HEAVY tires and wheels installed so I am sure that has something to do with it but I doubt it was the cause... maybe the stray that broke the camel's back! So far no heavy armor... but counting the days until Ben has my front and rear done!

This is my wife's daily driver and our weekend camping vehicle so I do not see that usage being a cause... but I suspect that maintenance was lacking in its early years as so far everything I have worked appears to be 100% original.

My gut says that someone clipped a curb a few to many times... but don't tell her that I said that!

Tom
 
Good info- 235k- what size tires and wheels- offset change?

Asking mainly because I'm wondering how much external force applied on bearings with different offset, added weight, and types of use/driving for how many miles before it started complaining.

Thanks
 
275/60/18 KO2s on Steel Tundra rims. I am sure someone knows the exact weight difference but I would guess north of 40 lbs. No offset or spacers on these rims... that was one of the reasons I felt very comfortable using them.
 
The dealer price of $500 inclusive of parts? or just labor?
The issue with the cruiser is the two shafts are different sizes. The driver side is longer than the passenger side. The HF 20 ton press should give enough room to do the longer side.

Did you check the bearing free play? IF there is no play, I'd leave the bearings intact.
 
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