Really need help. Spark=check. Fuel=check. Start=Nope (1 Viewer)

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May 4, 2014
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Just finished replacing the head gasket. It just won't start.

Here is what I have tried so far, and the results:

-Re-did the procedure for installing the distributor.
-Took off distributor cap, set crank to top dead center, and verified distributor rotor is pointing in correct orientation (down and to the left).
-Checked for spark at #2 plug - got spark.
-Verified the fusible links are good, using the Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures (check Engine Light is on, turn signals work, and headlights work, so according to that the fusible links are all good).
-Verified fuel by jumping the #3 pin where the fuel relay plugs in to the positive terminal on the battery. You can hear fuel flows, and it comes out the fuel return line (I have subsequently reconnected the relay).
-Replaced spark plugs and wires.

Despite all of this, it just won't start.
 
Also:
-checked compression w/compression tester yesterday. W/engine cold compression (I can't warm it up), compression is around 100psi. Low, but the truck ran and started up nicely before head gasket replacement.
-New battery.
 
If you for sure have fuel and spark and air. Then its timing. Elec or mechanical timing is off somehow.
 
that sounds more like the starter motor is slipping or not engaging

have someone put their hand over the exhaust while you start it and see if there is even compression (if the engine is turning)
 
Can you verify the crank is turning? 100psi also seems really low.
 
Just finished replacing the head gasket. It just won't start.

Here is what I have tried so far, and the results:

-Re-did the procedure for installing the distributor.
-Took off distributor cap, set crank to top dead center, and verified distributor rotor is pointing in correct orientation (down and to the left).
-Checked for spark at #2 plug - got spark.
-Verified the fusible links are good, using the Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures (check Engine Light is on, turn signals work, and headlights work, so according to that the fusible links are all good).
-Verified fuel by jumping the #3 pin where the fuel relay plugs in to the positive terminal on the battery. You can hear fuel flows, and it comes out the fuel return line (I have subsequently reconnected the relay).
-Replaced spark plugs and wires.

Despite all of this, it just won't start.

Don't shoot me if I'm wrong here, but isn't TDC rotor position 11:00 (top left)?
 
He's maybe on to something. The rotor should be pointing up to about the 10 or 11 o clock position. I think you are supposed to install the distributor with rotor pointing about the 9 o-clock position, and when you install it, it will turn clockwise up to 10/11 oclock.
 
Here is what I went off of.
distributor installation
OK, but the part of the rotor which is usually referenced is the contact, which that diagram indicates is up, not down. It's a poor illustration, in any case; I can see the confusion.

There's a recent thread in here that concerns starting and camshaft timing, which has what I would consider the best photo. I'll look for it and get back to you.
 
That doesn't sound like your starter is engaging the flywheel. Just sounds like an electric motor spinning. Is your solenoid working?
 
It sounds like a starter turning a motor that has no-compression. You can here the slight repeated lope to it. That doesn't sound like a free spinning starter I ever heard..and I've heard a couple. Anyway, I would surmise your timing is way out given your description.
 
When you re-set the dizzy, you did verify you were TDC of the compression stroke yes? If so the pull the valve cover and verify both lobe sets over #1 are pointed up/away from
The valves and that the # I piston is at the top of its stroke. Reinstall the dizzy with the metal blade portion of the rotor pointed at 11 o clock as you're looking at it.
 
Have you verified that the injectors are getting a trigger signal?
 
It would be easier to remove the distributor and turn the engine over 360* (then reinstall dist per FSM and try starting) than to remove the valve cover and verify #1 cam lobe positions.

That said.. based on the sound of the video I wonder if your cam isn't timed to the crank correctly. Doesn't sound at all like you are getting distinct compression pulses.. and would also explain the lower-than-expected compression numbers. You would need to pull the valve cover to verify that though.
 
IMG_1461.JPG
#1 at TDC compression stroke:
 

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