trying to resurrect a 93 that has been sitting 2 yrs won't start

[ariff]

So my son and I are trying to resurrect a poor 93 we got from the woods that had been sitting for a few years. It will turn over but will not start. Here is what I know and have done..
1. It was sitting due to a head gasket job and never ran properly after that job. It would run just not well. I found and fixed several vacuum connections that were not connected or incorrect which could have caused the poor running condition after HG replacement.. Or at least that's what I am hoping.
2. I verified TDC with the ol stick in number one cylinder trick turn the engine over by hand and once the stick starts to move down stop this is roughly TDC. Verified that matched up with the timing marks on the block and that the dist. rotor was pointing to number one plug wire.
3. Replaced all plug wires and verified spark on each one by ground the plug out side to the valve cover and looking for spark all looks good here.
4. Verified fuel yes I have it plugs were wet.. I also removed the regulator hose turned over and gas spurted out.
5. Tested fuel pump relay, unbolt it from the fender and disconnect the relay from its socket. Locate terminal #3 in the relay socket. If you are looking down at the socket and holding it so that there's a row of three terminals on top and a second row with only one terminal in the middle position on the bottom, then terminal #3 is the rightmost position in the top row. If you measure with an ohm meter from #3 to ground you should get between 0.5 - 1 ohm resistance (Igot 0.8). You can also connect a wire from terminal #3 to +12v on the battery. This should cause the fuel pump to run and you should easily be able to hear fuel running through the fuel rail (Yup I heard fuel running through the rail..)
6. Cleaned all battery connections and checked fusible links all looks good.
7. Checked that ECU was all plugged in and that looked good.
8. Checked all fuses and relays they look good
9. Pulled dist cap and cleaned contacts also cleaned rotor.
10. Tried spraying some starting fluid in the throttle body and cranking the engine.. No go..
11. Verified I am getting a CEL light with engine in on position
12. Not seeing any movement from the Tach when trying to start.
13. Verified we are getting oil pressure from the dash gauge..

Hopefully I can get some more ideas from folks here.. I am posting a video of me testing for spark.. Let me know what you think of the way the engine sounds.. We have always thought it sounds a bit strange.

Thanks!

Video:


Dash display with key in the on position:

 

[gandrimp]

when you found tdc was it on the compression stroke?

 

[ariff]

when you found tdc was it on the compression stroke?

OK so I went out and double checked this.. I attached a balloon to the end of my comp testing hose and turned the engine over by hand and waited for the balloon to expand telling me I am on he compression stroke. I them removed the hose and inserted a long screwdriver and slowly turned over by hand till the screwdriver stopped rising. Verified the my mark matched 0 on the block and it did. Removed the dist cap and found the rotor pointing to plug number 6. I think I may have found the problem.. So I am guessing I need to remove the distributor and rotate it 180 degrees to point to number one? Never done this before so some guidance would be helpful from those out there who have done it.. Thanks.. BTW here are some pics..

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Sounds like you found your problem!

 

[MDarius]

Any thoughts from the forum on the sound of the engine turning over? I imagine that if Smaug the terrible were a car, he would sound like that. Great write up on your diagnostics process. I learned some new things. Thanks!

 

[UsedLuxury]

Any thoughts from the forum on the sound of the engine turning over? I imagine that if Smaug the terrible were a car, he would sound like that. Great write up on your diagnostics process. I learned some new things. Thanks!

With a plug out I wouldn't worry about the sound.

OK so I went out and double checked this.. I attached a balloon to the end of my comp testing hose and turned the engine over by hand and waited for the balloon to expand telling me I am on he compression stroke. I them removed the hose and inserted a long screwdriver and slowly turned over by hand till the screwdriver stopped rising. Verified the my mark matched 0 on the block and it did. Removed the dist cap and found the rotor pointing to plug number 6. I think I may have found the problem.. So I am guessing I need to remove the distributor and rotate it 180 degrees to point to number one? Never done this before so some guidance would be helpful from those out there who have done it.. Thanks.. BTW here are some pics..

Spin her 180. I have timed an engine 180 out more times than im proud of. See if you can get a hold of a timing light, you can time by ear but knowing if you're in spec is nice. You stated that it is fueling but didn't mention if the fuel was fresh or not, if you are in a cold area the fuel could be full of water and it tends to fall from solution at low temps.

 

[lastresort576]

My guess is that it will start to sound normal once you get it running for a while. Everything has to get reoriented with each other again/scrub off potential corrosion carbon etc. Plus the dizzy being 180 out doesn't help.

As for a suggestion on getting the dizy lined up correctly, I would search for thread/youtube videos on replacing the oring. I watched/read them and they helped a bunch, I just cant remember how to off the top of my head.

Best of luck! sounds like youre just about there.

 

[ajax1]

Align the mark on distributed and push in
Points to number 1 once in

 

[mudgudgeon]

Align the mark on distributed and push in
Points to number 1 once in

basically this^^^

any dizzy's I have played with have helical gears, the dizzy rotor will turn a little as you pull the dizzy out, and vise versa. it may take a little trial and error t get the rotor aligned on the correct tooth.
i've done the old 180 degrees out trick before too

 

[grizzlygibbs]

One tooth off leaves quite a bit of variation.

One tooth off

Correct at the number 1

 

[quasi]

That balloon trick for determining compression stroke is an awesome idea! I will have to try and remember that vs popping the valve cover to check the cams

 

[gandrimp]

Been there. I have (to see if it was for sure the problem, especially on the real pesky dist) swapped the wires out to 180 degrees off. Just remember it all needs changed back to be right.

 

[dallen341]

If not comfortable indexing the dizzy, index the plug wires 180 degrees instead for a quick check to see if see fires off

 

[ariff]

Awesome thanks everyone going to pull the dist this afternoon and try getting it lined up correctly. What are the thoughts on having to replace the O ring everytime you remove the dist? And is this a special part or can it be easily found at a parts store?

 

[MikeB]

Pulling the distributor shouldn't damage the O-ring. If you do need one, a generic hardware store O-ring will work fine until you get around to replacing with OEM.

 

[ariff]

OK well here is the latest news we just went out there and turned the distributor 180 degrees.. Not at all as hard as I thought it may be took 10min. Bad news is there is no change in starting it just turns over does not even sound like it wants to start. I verified I am getting spark and fuel again and I am. Here is a video of the engine trying to start with everything connected.

video:


Pic of TDC on compression stroke.. Looks good now.

Anyone else have any thoughts on what we should try next? Getting to the end of my rope here on what can be done. I fear the guy that replaced the HG has screwed something up internally.. Fingers still crossed.. Thanks!

 

[lastresort576]

It doesn't even sound like it's getting combustion at all..how's your plug gaps. A trick with small engines is to make the gap almost non-existent. Maybe worth a try.

 

[ariff]

I pulled all plugs and gapped them to .032 or there about..

 

[ajax1]

Is the efi fuse good it is 15 amp in the fuse box of engine

 

[ariff]

Is the efi fuse good it is 15 amp in the fuse box of engine

Yup fuse is good.. Could the plugs be bad or dist cap? Hate to drop money on parts that don't need replaced? But they are easy to replace.. I tried a compression test and I had problems getting my hose to seal well in the plug hole.. I may go borrow a better tester from the parts store and see how things look..