Real time help - Temp Problem?

[Leandro]

And remember the 'jiggle valve' goes in the 12 O'Clock position.

Now you tell me that?
I just finished replacing it.... didn't pay attention to the valve... what could happen? I don't want to take everything apart again.
Put the old one in the stove, looked brand new. It opened completely but i think it took longer to open than the new one.

 

[flintknapper]

The purpose of the jiggle valve is to eliminate any air that may be trapped within the cooling system and allow it to pass by the thermostat. If an air pocket is trapped on the engine side of a thermostat...then the engine could overheat before the thermostat gets warm enough to open. To work as designed...the valve needs to be in the upright position.

Chances are...you will be OK either way if you 'burped' the radiator after topping off.

 

[Leandro]

Well, we will see tomorrow how it goes, if still runs hot, only option I have id to find someone that will let me use the garden hose to rinse the radiator.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Have you taken it for a test drive?

 

[Leandro]

Have you taken it for a test drive?

I did. No change.

 

[Biga27110]

My car runs 197-206 that isnt normal range?

 

[DirtDawg]

My car runs 197-206 that isnt normal range?

Yes, especially during warmer weather

 

[Spike555]

 

[Biga27110]

Yes, especially during warmer weather

What is the normal range so i can keep track thanks

 

[DirtDawg]

What is the normal range so i can keep track thanks

230* is usually when it’s a little too warm to be comfortable. Normal range is really dependent on how the truck is being driven and the outside temp. Right now in summer heat I sit usually in the 190*s. But if your climbing a steep hill in 110* weather it wouldn’t be abnormal to see a spike or two near 220*.

I know thats complicated, but it’s not always a straight forward answer. Instead you should just be worried about running too warm.

 

[Biga27110]

230* is usually when it’s a little too warm to be comfortable. Normal range is really dependent on how the truck is being driven and the outside temp. Right now in summer heat I sit usually in the 190*s. But if your climbing a steep hill in 110* weather it wouldn’t be abnormal to see a spike or two near 220*.

I know thats complicated, but it’s not always a straight forward answer. Instead you should just be worried about running too warm.

roger that, thanks for the info

 

[Dwight S]

I have a new radiator and thermostat. My normal temps are <190. The highest l’ve seen is 198 in 100* temps in stop and go city traffic.

 

[94SRUNNER]

I would orient the thermostat correctly, as stated in a previous posts and test again.

 

[abuck99]

Reference point for a healthy cooling system: I installed a new rad (spectra) 4 months & 5,000 mi ago- new hoses, new waterpump, new rad cap & thermostat, fresh trans fluid, new heater t’s, new SLLII coolant. Regular operating temps are now 186-190. A recent 4,000 mi trip to and from CO in temps up to 100 and continuous operation for 12-15 hrs a day, climbing 13k ft passes; temps ranged from 188-195. City driving around ATL right now 90+ ambient temps 186-190 stop & go traffic.

Previous oem rad with 186k and some noticeable dirt build up on the lower end, ran 198-203.

Anything over 210 consistently indicates to me a cooling system health issue:maybe not urgent but early warning. Symptoms from: driving behavior, spent or low coolant, a blockage ( internal or external), malfunctioning cap or thermostat, failing water pump, dated or low transmission fluid: low or spent trans fluid, or excessive trans slip will super heat heat your coolant via the internal heat exchange/cooler
in the lower tank of the radiator.

Original radiator life expectancy is 150-200k, replacements maybe 1/2 that expectation. Factor all of the above in determining cooling system health. If you have been running consistently above 220; take action.

 

[Clunky]

Original radiator life expectancy is 150-200k, replacements maybe 1/2 that expectation.

Why is life expectancy so much lower with a replacement?

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the responses
Coolant is at the right level, I check it at every refuel.

Radiator life has a lot to do with how well maintained and environment it's used in. I've one now with 350K/18 years.

Checking level at every refuel is good idea. But your only checking the reservoir level, which will/should be high when engine at normal operating as coolant expands.

I only use Toyota LL (in 98-02) 100% mixed 50/50 with distilled water (never use tap water) or premix 50/50. Any other percentage mix than 50/50 will cause issues with temp.

It's important you've no air in the system. Checking this by removing the radiator cap while engine cold (8 hour cool down) is a must. Coolant should be full to the neck with no air space. If cap bad or level low, you'll not cycle in and out (Hot & cold) of reservoir properly. Also run your cabin heater, it should blow very very hot. If not very very hot; air in system is first suspect, thermostat second and blockage third.

Radiator partial block by deposits will reduce effectiveness of radiator. Looking through the neck (under the cap) for deposits on fins, and any may indicate a new radiator is needed. This only happens in improperly maintained systems. That is not flushing every 2 years or 30K miles when using Toyota LL or using tap water.

Make sure to check between condenser (4/5 the size thinner front radiator) & main radiator for blockage. I've found grasses and styrofoam blockage in between them in some rigs. This happens often if rigs been in ~24" of deep water, like a flood.

Fan should come to a stop soon after engine shut-off. Free spinning is indication it's clutch is going or gone bad. Spinning by hand it should have resistance, and come to a stop within about one revalution.

If all this stuff is in order I'd be looking at fuel trims. Any engine running lean will run hot. Running leam may burn valves.

 

[abuck99]

Why is life expectancy so much lower with a replacement?

Im generalizing a bit but OES parts always last longer (to exceed warranty period) than replacement parts typically will. There are exceptions but replacement parts are not designed to the same standards.

 

[Leandro]

Waterpump was replaced 18 months ago, about 20k miles. Radiator flushed and all new hoses 14 months ago, I used Valvoline Zyrtec pink coolant. Heater Ts replaced with metal, trans fluid replaced 10k miles ago.
I can't see any deposits inside radiator, coolant is very clean.
Haven't replaced cap yet, didn't find an OEM locally, would rather not use aftermarket but will try it if necessary.
This morning flushed the radiator fins with a hose, didn't seem too dirty.
Fan clutch seems healthy, it does has resistance when spin it by hand.
Only thing I can think about is radiator going bad, but doesn't look old, looks like it has been replaced previously with a denso.
Temps in normal highway driving go between 195 and 203. In heavy traffic is kind of crazy, if I just started driving it's between 195 and 198, heavy traffic after highway goes up to 206.
Don't know what else to look at, will pamper it on my way back home and start again there

 

[flintknapper]

Waterpump was replaced 18 months ago, about 20k miles. Radiator flushed and all new hoses 14 months ago, I used Valvoline Zyrtec pink coolant. Heater Ts replaced with metal, trans fluid replaced 10k miles ago.
I can't see any deposits inside radiator, coolant is very clean.
Haven't replaced cap yet, didn't find an OEM locally, would rather not use aftermarket but will try it if necessary.
This morning flushed the radiator fins with a hose, didn't seem too dirty.
Fan clutch seems healthy, it does has resistance when spin it by hand.
Only thing I can think about is radiator going bad, but doesn't look old, looks like it has been replaced previously with a denso.
Temps in normal highway driving go between 195 and 203. In heavy traffic is kind of crazy, if I just started driving it's between 195 and 198, heavy traffic after highway goes up to 206.
Don't know what else to look at, will pamper it on my way back home and start again there

Those numbers are certainly nothing to worry about....they are a bit higher than mine (same vehicle, same year). I have 210K miles on mine. Radiator (Spectra CU2282) installed about 2 yrs. ago.

In the Summer heat (commonly 95-105° F ambient here) I will run 190-192° F on the highway maybe 195 if I encounter hills for extended periods. City driving (slow traffic) 192-198° F but I don't get up to 200° under any conditions except towing.

I have the factory Aux Fan (you should too) and have modded my Fan Clutch with 20K cst fluid. Running a Toyota T-Stat, Radiator cap and 50/50 Red 'Asian' (Zerex).

I also run Delo 400 or Rotella T for engine oil (its HOT most of the year here). Keep fresh fluid in your tranny (I run Valvoline MaxLife).

Somewhere in your cooling 'SYSTEM' there is room for some improvement...but your temps are not alarming IMO.

 

[Spike555]

Cruise set. Two hours straight never slowed down. Climbed plenty of steep hills. Temp never went over 195*F. 192 miles one way.

EDIT: typo-miles was wrong. And I'm the guy that uses the wrong motor oil, wrong coolant and a aftermarket t-stat.