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- #41
The most outstanding thing of your post is that you still use cassettes.
Real time help - Temp Problem?
- Thread starter Leandro
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There no school like old school...I record Spotify onto cassettes.
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I agree with @flintknapper, your temps aren't something to worry about for the trip home. But you are running hot.
Sound like your coolant system is in good shape. You do need to check the jiggle valve but in can wait tell your home. If that turns out to be in proper position (at top), then I'd look elsewhere.
Check your fuel trims on the Torque app, you may be running lean. How's your MPG?
Look for vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector(s) may be clogged. Dump some fuel system cleaner in the tank.
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- #44
MPG is terrible, as always. Since the day I bought it I get 13MPG in highway, for this trip I removed the roof rack and on some sections got 14 MPG, thae happiest part of the trip.
I'll check the fuel trims and report back. I start my trip back home tomorrow.
I'll check the fuel trims and report back. I start my trip back home tomorrow.
^^^^^
Oh....OUCH!
I know everyone's driving habits and conditions are different...but I just got back from a 500 mile round trip (part daytime driving, part early morning) and was quite pleased to see that I got 17.5 mpg.
That was nearly all highway miles...but excellent for a vehicle 19 yrs. old, 210K miles, loaded with luggage and with 4 people for part of the trip.
My 80 Series does 13 mpg on the highway...but that's to be expected (1FZFE) with 300K.
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I don't know your rig, but assume build with bumpers, armor, oversized tires, etc. If 13/14 MPG is actually after adjusting for tires, that's what I understand is normal even good.
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- #48
The 13 to 14 MPG are after adjustment for the bigger tires.
I do have 33" KO2, front and rear bumper, whinch and snorkel. Took the roof rack off for this trip.
Always got same MPG from the day i bought it
I do have 33" KO2, front and rear bumper, whinch and snorkel. Took the roof rack off for this trip.
Always got same MPG from the day i bought it
Earlier I stated out & back to Colorado 4,000 miles, the "computer" said 13.9avg. Rounding up for tires size that is near 14.7 +/-. My rig loaded was 6500lbs.
Flint- 18+mpg....you must have had the wind at your back in both directions, running downhill and driving 60mph.
Thats a good result.
Flint- 18+mpg....you must have had the wind at your back in both directions, running downhill and driving 60mph.
Thats a good result.
Earlier I stated out & back to Colorado 4,000 miles, the "computer" said 13.9avg. Rounding up for tires size that is near 14.7 +/-. My rig loaded was 6500lbs.
Flint- 18+mpg....you must have had the wind at your back in both directions, running downhill and driving 60mph.
Mostly flat highway, A/C running, but yes...I do drive slowly probably no more than 65mph (highway) for most of the trip.
I will double check that mileage my next trip (same route), but I calculated it twice for mileage vs. gallons of fuel at the pump. I don't like to let my tank get much below 1/2 tank while on trips..so maybe letting it get close to empty and a refill would be more accurate, I don't know?
***EDIT*** OK....I had actually made a note on one of my fuel receipts from my last trip and I recorded 17.5 (not 18.5 mpg), so my memory was incorrect...BUT also:
I compared GPS miles to fuel fill up (gallons) and not the mileage recorded on the trip-meter...because I recently put larger tires on the LX. I went from a stock tire (31.16") to a (32.87") tire. So roughly 5.5% difference in diameter.
Effectively making my final drive ratio lower (numerically) than the factory 4.30.
I run 45 psi in the front tires and 48 psi (when vehicle is loaded) in the rear.
Anyway...I will carefully record the results of my next trip.
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- Thread starter
- #51
Hey folks
So far so good. Drove 1300km today, 14 hours total from Fort Lauderdale to a little bit past Nashville.
The truck behaved great, outside temp was on the upper 80s and lower 90s temp oscillated between 193 and 201 on flat highway, it remained mostly at 195.8, 2600 rpm, 75mph. I had some very heavy traffic around Atlanta and temp went up to 205 max and on the hills the temp remained almost constant, only got to 206 on a long climb. I know I'm still a little high but things are looking up. The problem is now to identify what actually made the difference or was it a combination of everything? New t-stat, rinse radiator fins, new rad cap or fuel system cleaner.
Something to notice is that temp was more affected by speed than by engine load. The more speed the lower the temp. Don't know if it is because it was craving for air flow or because the water pump spun faster.
Anyway, I greatly appreciate all the help and good advice from all of you. I'll report back when I get home tomorrow.
So far so good. Drove 1300km today, 14 hours total from Fort Lauderdale to a little bit past Nashville.
The truck behaved great, outside temp was on the upper 80s and lower 90s temp oscillated between 193 and 201 on flat highway, it remained mostly at 195.8, 2600 rpm, 75mph. I had some very heavy traffic around Atlanta and temp went up to 205 max and on the hills the temp remained almost constant, only got to 206 on a long climb. I know I'm still a little high but things are looking up. The problem is now to identify what actually made the difference or was it a combination of everything? New t-stat, rinse radiator fins, new rad cap or fuel system cleaner.
Something to notice is that temp was more affected by speed than by engine load. The more speed the lower the temp. Don't know if it is because it was craving for air flow or because the water pump spun faster.
Anyway, I greatly appreciate all the help and good advice from all of you. I'll report back when I get home tomorrow.
Both.
Radiators are great at removing heat but they need two things, air moving over them and the hot coolant moving through them at the correct speed.
Air moving over radiation to slow and the heat does not dissipate.
Hot coolant moving through to slow and the heat builds up in the system before the radiator, top of engine for example while coolant in radiator is cool.
Move coolant through radiator to fast and it does not have time to be cooled because it moves past the cooing fins to fast and carries the heat with it back into the system. That's why there is a thermostat. If you remove the t-stat you can actually overheat a engine.
Air moving over radiation to slow and the heat does not dissipate.
Hot coolant moving through to slow and the heat builds up in the system before the radiator, top of engine for example while coolant in radiator is cool.
Move coolant through radiator to fast and it does not have time to be cooled because it moves past the cooing fins to fast and carries the heat with it back into the system. That's why there is a thermostat. If you remove the t-stat you can actually overheat a engine.
I was watching a old video from andrew st pierre on youtube once where he started to run hot on an expedition in the middle of nowhere. Turned out that once he relocated his aftermarket components that were in the front of his grill/radiator, he cooled down right away. He noted how something that seemed so insignificant and small in comparison to the grill opening could cause him such a big reaction for his temps.
Heres that video i mentioned.
Im assuming that this is your hottest point of the summer currently. Seeing as how this is a roadtrip where your in the vehicle for long distances/times, is this the first time youve noticed the temps creep over 205? Or is it the first time youve driven with the obd scan running in these hot temperatures? (Not talking down at all, just curious) ive had the same app running in my old 4runner and had similar temps AND similar concerns. I had just changed my timing belt/water pump and discovered it on my test drive. (I realized i installed my jiggle vlv 180° incorrectly) On those vehicles (3.4's), the thermostat is under all the timing belt covers and you may as well redo the entire belt job if you need a simple thermostat. I decided to live with it and it was fine for the next 50k miles. I sold that vehicle, but i am confident that it is still fine. My temos were 197-220. 220 was driving up mountains, but it never crept up to danger. And it never refused to cool down once i stopped wringing the engine a bit.
I noticed you have lights on your bumper, are the lights/plate restricting any of the flow to the radiator? If wind speed is a factor, it COULD be related. I think your fine either way for the trip home.
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- #56
I've been thinking about it. I have an ARB Sahara bumper with a winch and 2x 6" lights in the bumper. But I figure ARB thought about it, otherwise half the trucks 8n here would be running hot.
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- #57
This is the first time I drive with the OBD scanner ON.
Actually this morning I was looking at the grill looking for ways to rearrange everything in the front to facilitate air flow.
Actually this morning I was looking at the grill looking for ways to rearrange everything in the front to facilitate air flow.
It may have been running warmer (not hot) for a little bit. When i was running similar temos on my old 4runner, the needle NEVER moved from the dead center position. I stopped using my dongle for every day use because i found that if i didnt unplug it, it causes a current draw from the obd port to transmit signal. So i now only use it while towing or scanning.
I decided that id just pay attention to my temp whenever i checked speed. Figured if i saw that needle so much as creep a mm over dead center, it was time to immediately pull over.
That little bluetooth dongle and the torque app has saved me (and my friends) alot of diagnosic money. Best of luck and safe travels.
I decided that id just pay attention to my temp whenever i checked speed. Figured if i saw that needle so much as creep a mm over dead center, it was time to immediately pull over.
That little bluetooth dongle and the torque app has saved me (and my friends) alot of diagnosic money. Best of luck and safe travels.
This is one of the many reasons I use a Ultra-Guage, it only uses power when the ignition is on and has a battery for it's own memory. It turns on and starts giving me live data as soon as I turn the key on. It shuts off when I turn the igitniton off.
99% of people do not use a live data device while driving, only for diagnostics.
The temp gauge is programmed to have a large "dead" spot with a BIG temp range before the gauge starts to move.
It usually will not move off of the normal spot until the engine is at 230*F or so, then it'll move quickly, the red starts at 250*F typically.
And I guarantee you ARB is not checking engine temps when designing a winch bumper and winch mount location.
They are designing for fit and least amount of installer modifications.