Re-gear

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Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Threads
3
Messages
18
Location
Oregon
Hey guys before i pull the trigger does this sound right? I got quoted 3000-3500 to regear to 4.88. Does that sound right?
 
Wow. That seems high to me. You could get all the parts for a third of that.
 
Thats did seem a high to me too. I figures i asked you folks. If anyone from oregon let me know if you have a shop that can do this.
 
Thats did seem a high to me too. I figures i asked you folks. If anyone from oregon let me know if you have a shop that can do this.
Is that re gearing the t-case or both axles? or all 3?
 
Just front and rear axles. Do u recommend the T-case too
Not all 3, imo. Just doing the t-case would be sufficient, and least expensive. Helps keep potential problems in the axles from ... being potential problems too.
But I don't know the backstory or current setup that has brought you to the re-gear solution, or even if just doing the t-case will address your issues. So stand by for input from others.
 
Yeah i just put on new 315 75 16 tires. I was running 285's. This the reason why want to regear. Very sluggish now. It seems like the S/C is working harder cause i hear it more now. Lol
 
Not all 3, imo. Just doing the t-case would be sufficient, and least expensive. Helps keep potential problems in the axles from ... being potential problems too.
But I don't know the backstory or current setup that has brought you to the re-gear solution, or even if just doing the t-case will address your issues. So stand by for input from others.
This is true. More so, if you have factory lockers. The prices "seems" high unless you have leaky old knuckles, and includes a birf rebuild, and rear bearing refresh.
 
The shop qouted me 3800 for the front and 1800 for the front and rear overhaul which includes the regear
 
That’s partly why I did t-case gears. Way less than half that price plus you can lower the low range while you’re in there.
 
I mapped this out recently and I think your initial quote is in the ballpark.

Typical Re-gear Costs:
  • About $1200 for a front & rear gear set from JT Nitro Gear Package GPFJ80-410-2, GPFJ80-456-2, GPFJ80-488-2, GPFJ80-529-2
  • Roughly $450 per diff for the "set up"-( that is the process to remove & install the ring gear onto the carrier and adjust etc)
  • Roughly $300-$450 per axle to remove and install diff into truck , test drive etc
  • $100-$125 in synth lube/shop supplies
There's steps to save money on this process, like pulling the diffs and taking the for just the set up. As for the set-up process, choose your gear installer carefully. Trusting the work to an experienced Toyota specific gear installer can make all the difference between long happy gear life and a short term & expensive re-do.

T-case underdrive & low range reduction: Cruiser Outfitters http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/engineparts.html
  • High range 10% underdrive kit $505
  • Low range under drive kit 3.1:1 reduction $725
  • Guessing 8hrs labor to pull the TC, re-gear it, and re-install
  • $50 synth lube- gear oil/shop supplies etc
  • Option to consider at this time would be to add a part time kit since the TC is out and apart. $575-$695
So maybe $800 to $1,000 less to do a TC re-gear as a comparison (with out part time kit) I think the TC re-gear is good bang for the buck if you have over sized tires and armor, and wheel your rig in places that suits a better crawl ratio.
 
If you can pull the center pumpkin yourself, you should send them to Mud Member Zuk, he'll treat you right. Below is a link to his web site.
 
I vote heavily for ZUK at Gear Installs. He knows Toyota’s and he is an absolute perfectionist. Pretty important when performing an expensive re-gear. I only wanted to pull the 3rd members once and not in some remote off-road location when the lash was not set correct and the R&P were disintegrating.
 
The high-end of your original quote isn't much lower then what ZUK at Gear Installs quoted me to do mine but with Harrop lockers, $4280 with F/R lockers and $2980 without.
 
I too had ZUK @gearinstalls.com do my re-gear along with Harrop lockers for roughly the same as @OffRoadScott besides ZUK is one hell of a great guy and a mud member as well.
 
I may be considering the TC reduction, IIRC from my research you can do the high range reduction only which will lower both the high and low range 10%
 
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