RE: Advice from FJ25 'ers' for my 1964 FJ40 (4 Viewers)

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andybudge said:
My parts Manual shows rhs exit
Click to expand...
Thanks. Very interesting, nevertheless, if it matches the manual that is spec. My early 70's ones also exit RHS on mostly stock exhaust with the correlating brackets in place. Might be that the FST vs hardtop accounts for the difference since my '65 manual shows LHS exit on a RHD hard top -

Screenshot_20220826-051237_Drive.jpg
 
locklaw said:
Thanks. Very interesting, nevertheless, if it matches the manual that is spec. My early 70's ones also exit RHS on mostly stock exhaust with the correlating brackets in place. Might be that the FST vs hardtop accounts for the difference since my '65 manual shows LHS exit on a RHD hard top -

View attachment 3097221
Click to expand...
Exhaust schematic

Exhaust schematic

I wonder if it was changed from the early ribbed Hardtops to late 1964? ( which is mine - Engine # etc / Vin early Jan 1965)
 
andybudge said:
Exhaust schematic

Exhaust schematic

I wonder if it was changed from the early ribbed Hardtops to late 1964? ( which is mine - Engine # etc / Vin early Jan 1965)
Click to expand...
Aah, ok. Thanks so much! Mine is early according to the catalog (early '64 production) and the routing you show is exactly how my '72 with intact exhaust is routed. I have now had to change some basic bits to close holes, hoping the Heritage stuff comes through.

To mix it up further, my early '72 43 routes to the left side also. Toyota is keeping us on our toes.
 
Door gap

Door gap


Any advice for compression of new Door Rubbers to get gap/alignment correct?
A lot of effort to get the doors to close nicely and line up…..now the driver’s door bulges out at the back bottom corner. The front is fine because the hinges compress the rubber, at the top back the door latch pulls the door in, but at bottom rear edge there is nothing, so door bulges a bit. It’s possible it will settle down with time(?). I am a little concerned that it may put a permanent twist in the door as there is a fair amount of pressure. I cannot push the bottom rear edge in by hand. Any tips?
 
Door gap

Door gap

Any advice for compression of new Door Rubbers to get gap/alignment correct?
A lot of effort to get the doors to close nicely and line up…..now the driver’s door bulges out at the back bottom corner. The front is fine because the hinges compress the rubber, at the top back the door latch pulls the door in, but at bottom rear edge there is nothing, so door bulges a bit. It’s possible it will settle down with time(?). I am a little concerned that it may put a permanent twist in the door as there is a fair amount of pressure. I cannot push the bottom rear edge in by hand. Any tips?
 
I want that bench seat! :D
 
I figure the door will settle down some … the trucks do flex and twist it should settle it down

As for the reverse lamp I think I had seen it mounted under the rear rail

If I remember I’ll check some pics to see… I’ll post up if I find anything
 
here are the aux lights and how they typically mounted them... the amber were all aussie trucks... the fj21 was japan and aussie

the fj21 shows the reverse light that was used prior to the oval that you have

just a simple bracket or mount directly to the rear rail

64 cruiser from web b.JPG
P2080005.jpg
P2290016.jpg
P3257316.jpg
what is it.jpg
 
That light looks fantastic btw

I’d have to look but I think they were also on the Toyota Microbus rk50? Or something like that

Edit it’s a rk95B
 
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