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- #41
Ebag333 said:
Dark now. I'll get those pics tomorrow
Sent from my C771 using IH8MUD
Radius Arm Flip
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Dark now. I'll get those pics tomorrow
Sent from my C771 using IH8MUD
How did you go about determining and setting caster?
Looking forward to the pictures
Looking forward to the pictures
Anxiously awaiting the write up. This is a definite on my to-do list.
skills Tim... skills
Like a spring over for 80s. Brilliant.
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- #46
Ok, this won't really be a step-by-step write up. Just more of a documentation. If you're capable of tackling a job like this, then you already know what to do, and how much work is involved.
With that said, it was very straight-forward, with no big surprises involved. The outcome was well worth the work. Also, I'm now looking for a DC front driveline. PM me if you have one...
Here are some pics:
With that said, it was very straight-forward, with no big surprises involved. The outcome was well worth the work. Also, I'm now looking for a DC front driveline. PM me if you have one...
Here are some pics:
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- #47
Gotta be careful with that torch... Turns out the axle housing isn't that thick!!
This resulted in some minor swearing, and an un-scheduled diff fluid drain/refill.
Blew a pinhole in the housing, which was later welded up.
This resulted in some minor swearing, and an un-scheduled diff fluid drain/refill.
Blew a pinhole in the housing, which was later welded up.
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- #48
Cleaning up the brackets, and cleaning up the bare axle housing.
Didn't get a picture, but we did build-up and low spot that were left in the axle housing with weld, then ground them back flush.
Didn't get a picture, but we did build-up and low spot that were left in the axle housing with weld, then ground them back flush.
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- #49
It was getting late in the day at this point, so lighting was less than ideal for pics. These show the radius arms flipped and attached to the brackets, just about ready to drop down onto the axle.
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- #50
Few finished pics:
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- #51
Now, for some specs:
As we know, caster angle is directly related to pinion angle. Factory pinion angle is 7 degrees.
My pinion angle was close to 20 degrees, hence the reason for my front springs being so arched.
After torching off the brackets, we set the pinion angle back to 7 degrees before welding them back on. I plan to get the alignment checked one day this week, so that will give me some hard numbers on caster angle to post up. Based on the way it drives, I'd say its really close to stock. The wheel returns to center nicely, and it no longer tries to follow the "ruts" in the road.
Still a few things I need to do:
Install the longer brake lines that have been sitting in my garage...
I'm going to bend up a new section of hard-line for the driver side, as the radius arm is now in its way. This new line will go around the front of the radius arm bracket.
Install a DC front driveshaft. Didn't vibe before, but not it sounds like it's about to explode under decelleration.
Rebuild front knuckles, as mine are obviously leaking.
Reinstall/re-route ABS lines for the front axle. These ran down the driver side control arm on my rig, so I opted to remove them for the flip. I might have to get creative with their routing, but I think I can make it work.
As we know, caster angle is directly related to pinion angle. Factory pinion angle is 7 degrees.
My pinion angle was close to 20 degrees, hence the reason for my front springs being so arched.
After torching off the brackets, we set the pinion angle back to 7 degrees before welding them back on. I plan to get the alignment checked one day this week, so that will give me some hard numbers on caster angle to post up. Based on the way it drives, I'd say its really close to stock. The wheel returns to center nicely, and it no longer tries to follow the "ruts" in the road.
Still a few things I need to do:
Install the longer brake lines that have been sitting in my garage...
I'm going to bend up a new section of hard-line for the driver side, as the radius arm is now in its way. This new line will go around the front of the radius arm bracket.
Install a DC front driveshaft. Didn't vibe before, but not it sounds like it's about to explode under decelleration.
Rebuild front knuckles, as mine are obviously leaking.
Reinstall/re-route ABS lines for the front axle. These ran down the driver side control arm on my rig, so I opted to remove them for the flip. I might have to get creative with their routing, but I think I can make it work.
Looks great.
seen pics .. wonder if it will worth having custom control arms .. more straight describing more like straight line from frame mount to the housing .. it will work ? you will have more clearance for sure ..
What did u end up putting ur caster at(not pinion angle)? Good job, btw. Edit: sorry i read ur doing alignment etc...
Last edited:
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- #55
Won't know exact number on caster until I get it checked, but it should be really close to stock specs (-3 to -4 degrees)
Factory pinion angle is 7 degrees, and my pinion angle is now 7 degrees. Caster angle is directly tied to pinion angle, unless you were to cut the knuckle balls off the axle and rotate axle housing separately.
Wow! Truck looks alot different since the last time I saw it. When we going to Disney? 
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- #57
Wow! Truck looks alot different since the last time I saw it. When we going to Disney?
Haha, yeah it's a bit different now!
I need to get back over to Disney pretty soon. I've got a couple local guys with 80s that have never been. I'll PM you once I run it by them.
Take care!
Holy sh1t ! That's a huge difference.
It's on the bucket list
Edit: will the stock sway bar reinstalled in some capacity with new brackets ?
It's on the bucket list
Edit: will the stock sway bar reinstalled in some capacity with new brackets ?
Any pics of flexing it out to see how it does?
Any issues with panhard clearance on the pass side?
Any issues with panhard clearance on the pass side?
Ya' know, I've always read that the reason people don't cut and turn a 80 series axle (at least not on an 80) is because the tie rods will hit. And I believe it as close as I've seen some of them. Would seem though, when you do the arm flip, you could leave the pinion pointed up to avoid a DC shaft, and then cut and turn to get the caster you need since the tie-rod is no longer anywhere near the arms.