I to have read that a bunch of times in all of the hundreds of threads I have read over the last couple of years
Radius Arm Flip
- Thread starter adventr
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I to have read that a bunch of times in all of the hundreds of threads I have read over the last couple of years
Any update on this?
- Thread starter
- #23
kidglove13 said:
Not able to do anything until this weekend.
Sent from my C771 using IH8MUD
Hopefully getting my garage wired up for 240 this weekend. I am definitely contemplating trying this but I am hesitant to weld to the axle while only running 110V. Cant wait to see your results.
You would be fine welding to the axle with 110
Yup, it's not that thick.
You actually don't want too much penetration on it, especially on the axle housing. Would be a major bummer to burn through the housing and leave a nasty drippy hole.....
Really? I had some trouble with penetration when welding my body mounts up to the frame. I think I'm losing some current by having to use an extension cord. I trust your advice, I just don't want me radius arms popping off going down the highway!
I think body mounts coming off might be nearly as bad. 
What sort of setup were you running? Amps? I know a friend of mine who did a bit of welding on my frame got a couple of pinholes using a 110 mig with gas. (Easily fixed, and the frame is rather thin on the sides anyway.)
I'm sure you know how to test your weld regardless though, right? Give it a few taps (with a good 12" backswing) with a 10 lb "micro adjuster" and see how much it moves. If it holds up, you know you're good.
I'm no pro welder though, so don't trust my advice. Your welds are about 100x prettier than mine.
What sort of setup were you running? Amps? I know a friend of mine who did a bit of welding on my frame got a couple of pinholes using a 110 mig with gas. (Easily fixed, and the frame is rather thin on the sides anyway.)
I'm sure you know how to test your weld regardless though, right? Give it a few taps (with a good 12" backswing) with a 10 lb "micro adjuster" and see how much it moves. If it holds up, you know you're good.
I'm no pro welder though, so don't trust my advice. Your welds are about 100x prettier than mine.
Definately get a big guage extension cord, not the lgihtweight weedeater ones. It's not as pretty, but you can actually get more penetration using flux core. Buddies neighbor worked for Miller and I found this out through him (as in you might want to verify).
Absolutely. Every mod on my truck(s) has been done with a Miller 135 (110) and .35 flux. Never had a weld break.
I agree flux burns much hotter especially at startup.
Just an option, as the flipped arms might not be for everyone, but binksfab on facebook sells link brackets for a 3link specific to the 80s front housings peculiar shape for a decent price. They also have a complete 3 link for $995. I have it on my truck and am super happy with it on and offroad. Theyre a relatively small shop and he keeps busy enough as it is. I think thats the main reason he doesnt advertise his products?
If interested, theyre on facebook and have pics of everything including a customers rig theyre building(bebe and ricks black 80 on 38s)...
Also, a 110volt welder on a good extension cord is totally up to the task( as a bunch of guys have stated above). Im a certified welder and use a hobart 140 amp machine 'in the field' for repairs on everything from 1/4" plate to .120" wall tubing...(architects suck at detailing stairs in hospitals and schools and they never fit right
). We use 035 flux core, the reverse polarity does yield more heat and potential penetration for a given set of parameters when compared to the same scenario w 75/25 argon/CO2 mix, but i prefer the gas when im not out in the wind. Only cause the flux is a mess to clean up(wire wheeling in tight places is hard) and paint over...
If interested, theyre on facebook and have pics of everything including a customers rig theyre building(bebe and ricks black 80 on 38s)...
Also, a 110volt welder on a good extension cord is totally up to the task( as a bunch of guys have stated above). Im a certified welder and use a hobart 140 amp machine 'in the field' for repairs on everything from 1/4" plate to .120" wall tubing...(architects suck at detailing stairs in hospitals and schools and they never fit right
). We use 035 flux core, the reverse polarity does yield more heat and potential penetration for a given set of parameters when compared to the same scenario w 75/25 argon/CO2 mix, but i prefer the gas when im not out in the wind. Only cause the flux is a mess to clean up(wire wheeling in tight places is hard) and paint over...
Last edited:
Just an option, as the flipped arms might not be for everyone, but binksfab on facebook sells link brackets for a 3link specific to the 80s front housings peculiar shape for a decent price. They also have a complete 3 link for $995. I have it on my truck and am super happy with it on and offroad. Theyre a relatively small shop and he keeps busy enough as it is. I think thats the main reason he doesnt advertise his products?
If interested, theyre on facebook and have pics of everything including a customers rig theyre building(bebe and ricks black 80 on 38s)...
Also, a 110volt welder on a good extension cord is totally up to the task. Im a certified welder and use a hobart 140 amp machine 'in the field' for repairs on everything from 1/4" plate to .120" wall tubing...(architects suck at detailing stairs in hospitals and schools and they never fit right
I follow binks on facebook. I saw the 3 link set-up, and I was wondering how it turned out. I think if you started a thread with some pictures of the set-up and a solid review, you may drive some business thier way. A lot of great stuff is made for the 80's from small companies!
Ok, hi-jack over.
Yeah, definitely good stuff! Check fb for pics, I hope it wasnt a hijack, i threw the weld info out there for the original post as well. Hoping not to be rude
Yeah, definitely good stuff! Check fb for pics, I hope it wasnt a hijack, i threw the weld info out there for the original post as well. Hoping not to be rude
I actually meant that I was hijacking the thread with welding questions. Your info was pertinent to front suspension set ups, so you're good IMO.
- Thread starter
- #36
Teaser pics from cell phone.
Sent from my C771 using IH8MUD
Sent from my C771 using IH8MUD
NICE! Did you reuse the OEM mounts? I dont think that going to be an option for me since i dont have a cutting torch.
I wonder if you could shift the arms in a couple inches, so they mount on the inside of the frame rather than the outside.
You'd have to move the frame side mount as well of course.....
You'd have to move the frame side mount as well of course.....
- Thread starter
- #39
Brunt Force Trauma said:
Yep, used same mounts. Worked great.
Just did first road test. PERFECT.
Caster is set to stock, and no wondering on road anymore.
Tires rubbed control arms before, now they clear by an inch.
Write up and pics later tonight.
Sent from my C771 using IH8MUD
So any pics of it flexed?