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Radiator replacement options (ADVICE NEEDED)
- Thread starter KookxNutz
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- fzj80 radiator replacement
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Not sure if this is the right place to post about my experience with a Denso radiator but I bought one as a preventative maintenance purchase before a long road trip. Installed the Denso thinking it was OEM for the LC100 that I bought this year. Less than 6mo in there's a small crack in the opening on the bottom. We discovered that while replacing the timing belt this week.
Parts geek is replacing the radiator on warranty but it needless to say has me searching for better options if this happens again.
Parts geek is replacing the radiator on warranty but it needless to say has me searching for better options if this happens again.
I went with a Ron Davis radiator.
Super happy with results. Higher fluid capacity & very top-notch quality.
I wanted better cooling capacity since I went turbo on mine.
If you find another friend/member local that wants/needs one too, they knocked $100 off the price if you bought more than one.
They are speedy though, at about a grand after that discount.
Been using it for many years now without a hiccup.
Super happy with results. Higher fluid capacity & very top-notch quality.
I wanted better cooling capacity since I went turbo on mine.
If you find another friend/member local that wants/needs one too, they knocked $100 off the price if you bought more than one.
They are speedy though, at about a grand after that discount.
Been using it for many years now without a hiccup.
Put a koyo in 8 years ago still going strong 
Been rocking one for over 10 years now !!
I bought a new brass one for my 93 some 20 years ago, and it continues to be chugging along. My understanding is that the brass were the stock option for 93-94, and Al for 95-97. I now need one for my 97. I was just going to stock Al for that but if brass is still an option maybe I will consider it. I am not sure which is "better".
There was a whole debate on that, seems like people living in hotter climates like Arizona prefer the Al because it cools more efficiently vs the brass being more robust and repairable. I went with the brass when I replaced my Al OEM one years ago because I hated the plastic top, that's where mine had failed and before that I had broken one of the plastic nipples and had to get creative.
How old / how many miles had the original OEM unit with the plastic top last? Not looking to reignite an ancient debate just interested in your empirical experience. I just ordered a new OEM AL radiator for my 95. Brass unit was available but my thoughts were that Mr.T updated the design for a reason so I went with the updated design.
Quick google search and the 16400-66040 come up available.
@Irish Reiver I have to look through my records to know for sure but I believe I replaced it at least 10 years ago so I'd guess it was ~16-17 years old. I had to rock a broken nipple for a while too.
10 Years on any radiator is pretty darn good - plastic tops or otherwise.
I just remember them being discontinued or otherwise unavailable YEARS ago. So I was wondering if Toyota brought them back but maybe changed the materiels. Or maybe they've been available the whole time and my memory is just shot!
I was looking at this on my phone and it looked fine. Now on the big screen I see the coolant.
I always thought that the main advantage of OEM aluminum was weight. And the main advantage of OEM brass was longevity and repairability.
And then people argue about the cooling capacity--- but I think most say that there is a slight advantage to aluminum.
And then people argue about the cooling capacity--- but I think most say that there is a slight advantage to aluminum.
Slight advantage is an understatement. Ron Davis cools very well, had one for over 4 yrs. Also tried a Copper/Brass and the cooling is much worst than aftermarket alum. In my experience, alum. cools a good 10-15F difference under the same controls. With that said, my Liland 2 core alum. cools every bit just as good as my Ron Davis and is 1/4th the price of the RD.
If OEM still available, 100% go with OEM or OE quality unit. Most people forget aftermarket alum. core is about /75-1" thicker than OE unit, essentially pushing your fan that much closer to the radiator and if your engine mounts are not in the best of shapes, under heavy flexing could make contact with the back of the radiator and potentially get you stranded on the road or out on the trail.
If OEM still available, 100% go with OEM or OE quality unit. Most people forget aftermarket alum. core is about /75-1" thicker than OE unit, essentially pushing your fan that much closer to the radiator and if your engine mounts are not in the best of shapes, under heavy flexing could make contact with the back of the radiator and potentially get you stranded on the road or out on the trail.
Well I was more thinking of a OEM brass vs an OEM aluminum. I think the Rod Davis is a other thing. Of course, the price reflects that.