Radiator exploded. What now?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Threads
5
Messages
121
Not sure if any of this is relevant but, yesterday the a/c had a tough time getting cold but after a mile or two on the road it was kicking in fine. Today it took a little longer and the a/c would cut out when the LC was standing idle in front of my buddy's house. Then when pulling away from the post office later that same trip BOOM the radiator blew. The sound was like somebody threw a full soda can against the hood. So, parked at the post office, had a buddy come pick me up.... we went back after the engine cooled off, I started it up and drove it 7 miles home with the engine temp just peeking over 50% as we pulled onto my street. Serpentine belt still in tact obviously and everything it runs across is spinning.

Questions are: If I replace the radiator, thermostat, and water pump.... that should do 'er right? Also; dealership wants $600.00 for a new radiator. Does anybody have any experience with a not-so-Toyota radiator that costs less?

Thank you very very much in advance for any insight.

radiator.webp
 
I've never seen one go like that. Looks and sounds like there was a lot of pressure built up in there. I'd start with the radiator and stat first, those are easy, get a new cap also. Then pressure test the system and see if it holds. I wouldn't do the water pump unless it was leaking, time to or you were doing the TB and were already there.
 
Last edited:
Wow, never seen a radiator split that badly. Radiator pressure is normally only 13-15 psi.

So yes, new radiator. You can a very good quality radiator for less than $250.00

Use ONLY an OEM thermostat, gasket and radiator cap.

I wouldn't concern myself with the water pump just yet unless it is leaking. Getting to it is quite involved and is best done when you do a Timing Belt change along will ALL pulleys and tensioners.
 
I agree I've never seen a radiator blow that badly. This is a good thread that details how to change the radiator, it's not that big of a job. A new radiator (OEM or Denso, either is a good choice), t-stat, and radiator cap + being it's your first time to change them I would say it would take 3-4hrs. max and a :banana::banana: job.

Radiator Change Today - Question
 
If the serpentine belt was getting coolant dripped/sprayed on it, it could maybe have been slipping on the AC pulley and caused what you described.
If like the 80 series, the AC will automatically shut-off when the engine is close to overheating.

I would pressure test the cap and try and find the culprit. Also, hook up a ScanGauge or anything like it to get more accurate temperature readings.
 
That is a standard top tank failure, I've been there as have many others.
I got a Toyota radiator for about $400 I think, others have had luck with aftermarket, I just wanted a known unit so went OEM.

It's an easy job, I did it in a camp ground, get a new cap and Toyota coolant while your at at.
 
My 2000 LC has an aftermarket that was about $180 (plus labor), but I don't recall the manufacturer name. Got it just before Christmas and so far it's fine. Quote for an OEM was around $800
 
My tank developed a hairline crack on the top plastic tank-end last DEC on the coldest day of the year (and 226,000 original miles). Replaced it with a DENSO unit -- been 100% since.
 
My OEM radiator had a hairline crack at the top that spewing a bit of fluid. I guess some crack different than others. :-)

I went with the Denso replacement via Amazon. About $200 IIRC. Seemed solid enough. Time will tell. I doubt I'll need it to last 16 years like the original.

bpe3
 
Thanks for all of your input! I ordered the Denso from Rockauto on Wednesday. $150 plus $22 shipping. They said it would get here next Tuesday, but it got here an hour ago (Friday afternoon). 2 day delivery, not too shabby (They shipped from SoCal, I am in PHX). I have already taken the old one out. Very easy. I'm going to head over to Toyota for the OEM thermostat and seal. For the record I have a 2007 with 135,000 miles. I got it a few years ago and it gets babied. 5,000 miles a year the last 3 years and never been off road. From the looks of it, the previous owner never took it off road either but might have had trouble navigating parking lots due no non-denting scratches on the corners of the bumpers. Thanks again! I'll report when everything is in and there's been a test drive.

radiator2.webp
 
WOW 10 yr old with only 135K miles, that's and earlier failure. What color is coolant?
 
05 LC Radiator.webp
Had the same thing happen to my 05 this week. What else should I be concerned with other than replacing the radiator and thermostat? I drove it for a couple of weeks last month with no issues after sitting most of the winter. I was running it at idle (on a very hot day) for about 30+ min while trying to get my fj40 started. Turned it around to use it to jump the 40 and the radiator blew up. I noticed the check engine light, Trac Off and VSC lights were on, but stupidly, didn't take notice of any of the gauges...my mind was on the 40 at the time. It's sitting right where it blew in my yard and don't honestly remember if I turned off the engine or if the car shut down. I'll be out of town for the week, but figured I could start gathering intel from this group and start to order what's needed for when I get home.
 
@tpscruisers I'd start with a new radiator, cap, thermostat and then pressure test. If you ran hot long enough for it to shut itself down I would expect some gnarly damage to the engine. Without coolant some areas will get real hot, real quick.
 
Back
Top Bottom