Question for the Audiophiles
- Thread starter Berkut10r
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- Thread starter
- #62
I don't have stock enclosures to reference the wiring situation, this is my final hump and I can push out rear enclosures (loaded or empty). I have a platoon of CDT demo woofers that can be had for next to nothing, while supplies last. I will provide all the wiring, resistors for those are looking to maintain OEM impedance and Resonix sound deadening treatment. I haven't decided on what tweeter to use, to keep pricing to the minimum, it will probably be Dayton Audio. Loaded with CDT CL woofer and Dayton tweeter, resistors, wiring for plug-play setup will be $225. Without speakers/tweeters, $115. Prices are introductory due to filament costs varying at the moment.
I would definitely be interested. Of course, I think I also have an amp issue, because the previous owner installed a new sub and it's not functional. I know it was done correctly (checked), but no juice.
dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Made the mistake of not appreciating the work fitting bigger tweeters would take! While these will be nice and on axis, I know I may be introducing reflecting wave issues, by pulling it off plane with the door.
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dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Terrible pic, but upped my sound deadening game this week on all 4 doors in prep for a major change. Added more damping, butyl rope along the bar in doors, foam tape under rings @Berkut10r made me, then butyl rope around those, sound absorption in doors, MLF curtain back on, then layer of sound absorption between door and door card, and hit resin on door card to be able put on some damping. X4!
I also have headliner out, pulled rear AC, sound deadening applied across roof, reattached crossmembers with seam sealer, then sound absorbing across roof. Gonna be like a bank vault!
I also have headliner out, pulled rear AC, sound deadening applied across roof, reattached crossmembers with seam sealer, then sound absorbing across roof. Gonna be like a bank vault!
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Any pics of these roughly installed? Curious to see how much they protrude beyond the dash.
Those are the SI tweeters, right? Cutout is 52mm / 59mm OD?
super hard to beat the factory, but with enough time/$, can be done.
yours truly....plenty of time/not enough $
yours truly....plenty of time/not enough $
On an LX it takes a bit to catch up to stock levels. On an LC you are starting with a nearly blank slate. It is a very satisfying process to undertake.super hard to beat the factory, but with enough time/$, can be done.
yours truly....plenty of time/not enough $
- Thread starter
- #69
I need to check in more often, I missed too much. More health issues and now in a middle of a divorce, new chapter about to begin. My folks want me to stay in FL but I really want to live in the mountains somewhere, property with a massive detached garage that hosts CNC machines of all kinds...
Anyhow, Killerbox has gotten tweeter pods from me, according to him they are a Go. @rbrave since you have been on the sidelines waiting, you will get a set for free. I deeply apologize for the absence.
My LX has gotten a small update recently, trunk area was torn down once again and Resonix Mega CLD was applied. Now it is a dumb quite in the back, zero whine from the rear tires.
Both front and rear subs got new enclosures. Both are constructed via mixture of fiberglass and Baltic birch.
New front components - Dynaudio ESOTAR650, Focal Utopia mids and Gladen Aerospace for the tweeters. Rear doors are turned off.
Amps also gotten some attention, I swapped out my worthless D4S amps and Garmin Audio DSP in favor of Helix P-Six Ultimate, Mosconi Pro 5/30 and Esotars are driven by Zapco 150.4 LX. Since I am only running one rear sub, midbasses are getting about 220-ish watts rms. I used to think that people who dedicate an amp to one set of speakers were in need of a lobotomy, now I am one of them. Currently constructing an enclosure for this trio, just need time to button it up.
Anyhow, Killerbox has gotten tweeter pods from me, according to him they are a Go. @rbrave since you have been on the sidelines waiting, you will get a set for free. I deeply apologize for the absence.
My LX has gotten a small update recently, trunk area was torn down once again and Resonix Mega CLD was applied. Now it is a dumb quite in the back, zero whine from the rear tires.
Both front and rear subs got new enclosures. Both are constructed via mixture of fiberglass and Baltic birch.
New front components - Dynaudio ESOTAR650, Focal Utopia mids and Gladen Aerospace for the tweeters. Rear doors are turned off.
Amps also gotten some attention, I swapped out my worthless D4S amps and Garmin Audio DSP in favor of Helix P-Six Ultimate, Mosconi Pro 5/30 and Esotars are driven by Zapco 150.4 LX. Since I am only running one rear sub, midbasses are getting about 220-ish watts rms. I used to think that people who dedicate an amp to one set of speakers were in need of a lobotomy, now I am one of them. Currently constructing an enclosure for this trio, just need time to button it up.
dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Pics, my man... we want pics!
I am wrapped and all back together... save for sub box build (half done) and then rear side panels, which are gonna be a bear. But I am moving in a month or so, so I have considerable incentive to finish!
- Thread starter
- #71
How are the TM8s treating you?
So I decided against the Infinite Baffle set up due to desire to gain a "quick disconnect/removal" ability so everything going in requires minimal to none mods to OEM trunk panels.
Pics is not something I am great at, often I get too wrapped with whatever I am doing and forget to document the process. This damn "build" has been rearranged several dozen times due to my OCD or space constraint. Damn rack grew in size seven-fold, it is now in two parts. All because I wanted "surfboard" A/B amps setup, most def going Soundigital GaN amps only next goround which offer more channels/power in a small footprint. Once I wire everything in, it will get a low profile acrylic cap on it.
Wiring has already been redone once this year and now I am redoing it again with a bigger gauge. Wires are Focal, Stinger and KnuConcepts Kolossus to give everything the best chance at sounding good as much as I can. Also, I initially wanted to use distribution posts for speakers but ended up settling on DT connector to bring everything in.
I bought this truck for 11K in 2018, audio components are worth $10,XXX. Not bragging or anything, just highlighting how ridiculous our hobbies can get in a hurry. This is just the stereo, the rest of this damn vehicle has eclipse its initial cost LONG LONG time ago.
Interested in front and rear enclosures. What offerings do you have currently? Noticed the Illusion C6 in a previous picture are no longer being manufactured.
I have the Nakamichi in my 99 LX470. Looking to replace head unit, amp, door speakers, and rear sub.
- Thread starter
- #73
So I printed adaptors for members of this forum in a plain bracket and units with a "hood" on them to prevent speaker getting dripped on if your door seals fail.
I have attempted enclosures, printed several units with success. Fit is great but nobody responded to my call for a picture or explanation of how the rear speakers are wired in. If I release an enclosure into the wild, it will plug n play only. Size of the speaker will have to remain a 5 1/4 or something like Morel Virtus, which have virtually no ass end, would have to be used because the cavity opening is rather slim in the door itself. Tweeter will have to be limited to around 20mm or so.
- Thread starter
- #74
They also have "baby" variant of their original tweeter, it is 22mm. Cutout is 42mm for them.
M22 Tweeter – StereoIntegrity.com
M22 Tweeters are sold in pairs. Order processing time is 3-5 business days.
stereointegrity.com
Ah - I hadn’t noticed these were now available. They look like they’d fit into a minimally modified stock sail panel pretty cleanly.
Here is the rear passenger speaker with enclosure from my 1999 LX470 with Nakamichi.
- Thread starter
- #78
David, thank you tons for these photos. I am not 100% familiar with 98-2000 setups, so I will ask another question. Is this your setup?
- 1998 – 2000
- Head unit: AM/FM/Cassette/CD with 6-disc in-dash changer,
- Speakers: 7 (front doors have 1″ tweeter and 6.5″ woofer, rear doors 6.5″ full range, Subwoofer has one 6″ driver in custom cabinet.
- Amplifier: 250 watts (maximum output)
- Optional Nakamichi 280 watt System (2000MY)
PS. I still have those Illusion Audio C6s, just listed them on ebay today.
- Thread starter
- #79
If you were in Central FL, I would prep you a nice kit and install it for free.
Yeah, Morel is a safe bet at all times. Focal, Gladen, Helix, One Audio...endless quality options. Give Masori.de a look, just set it up for US currency at the main page. They have the best prices, about 50% less than Crutchfield aka Crutchrot. Shipping is about 3 days.
- Thread starter
- #80
This is what I am about to put to work for front sub duty, replacing Dayton Epique. When I unboxed it and took a precise measurement, it is 6.06" so that means that a pair of these can be installed in the OEM location in tiny custom enclosure. This is not a cheap option, they run about $400 a piece and are never on sale used. However, if you can swing it 5KM is the little sub that torches everything in 6.5" and smaller class.