Question for the Audiophiles

[Berkut10r]

@QBerkut10r

My front speakers came in their own enclosures, which (because of the opening in the door) I had to cut up to fit what you see. Will your 6.5" adapter "work" for this or is my confutation unique? 1998 LX470

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I do have a mock up of the rear plate that looks like that, my fronts are a normal triangle shaped contraption. I would take an enclosures over free-air anyday, if the specs are on your side. Those Morel you have, are one of those units that are happy in any enclosure though.

 

[ed94r]

I do have a mock up of the rear plate that looks like that, my fronts are a normal triangle shaped contraption. I would take an enclosures over free-air anyday, if the specs are on your side. Those Morel you have, are one of those units that are happy in any enclosure though.

Problem is is that the morels are deeper than the enclosure (and the original Pioneers), so the whole "back" of the enclosure had to be cut out. Only the "face" of the enclosure remains, so the enclosure becomes the free air behind the midbass (the door iteslf).

Ed

 

[mr470]

Not sure if this helps at all, here's the Stinger 6.5" speaker adapter (which does fit a Gladen Zero Pro 6.75" woofer) and an Aerpro 6.5" speaker adapter (2mm too narrow for the ZPs). These are for the front doors.

Where can I get the adapter in the us?

 

[Berkut10r]

I print front adaptors out of polycarbonate in-house, strong as an ox. Mass produced brackets are normally made via mold injection, quantity over quality for big companies. Not saying that they are trash, just not as good as printed units. This is my demo set so excuse the mismatched bolts, with much love to Hurricane Milton that destroyed most of my neighborhood.

 

[Berkut10r]

Problem is is that the morels are deeper than the enclosure (and the original Pioneers), so the whole "back" of the enclosure had to be cut out. Only the "face" of the enclosure remains, so the enclosure becomes the free air behind the midbass (the door iteslf).

Ed

I apologize, got sick once again with some nasty bacteria that had my hands feel like ice for over two months. Yes, Morels are chubby on the back end, all of them. Audison's componets are modest in size and offer all the performance. I am fan of door speakers being in enclosures, Toyota did it right in that sense. If you want to bring it back to it's original self, you can craft a cap out of birch wood and epoxy it on. If you milkshake (epoxy with fiberglass powder) the inside of it, it will become dead as a doornail, much reduced need for sound deadening.

 

[mr470]

I print front adaptors out of polycarbonate in-house, strong as an ox. Mass produced brackets are normally made via mold injection, quantity over quality for big companies. Not saying that they are trash, just not as good as printed units. This is my demo set so excuse the mismatched bolts, with much love to Hurricane Milton that destroyed most of my neighborhood.

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Price to 89084

 

[Berkut10r]

$35 shipped, I can get them out on Thursday. I have a few prints to do today and tomorrow, it takes about 10 hours per pair.

 

[Biga27110]

I print front adaptors out of polycarbonate in-house, strong as an ox. Mass produced brackets are normally made via mold injection, quantity over quality for big companies. Not saying that they are trash, just not as good as printed units. This is my demo set so excuse the mismatched bolts, with much love to Hurricane Milton that destroyed most of my neighborhood.

View attachment 3775336

View attachment 3775337

Im also interested. Are these for the front speakers or rear?

 

[rbrave]

I have been toying with upgrading some of my audio components. What’s the max speaker depth we can fit in the front doors? Can your adapters give any more room? I’m currently running Morel Maximo components up front, and am hoping to go active with the Optim8 soon.

While I’m rewiring things, I’m toying with sub options in the stock location, just because I like the OEM look. Have you by chance looked at the space back there for mounting options? I’m considering trying infinite baffle with one of these, which should work decent without an enclosure but will need a super rigid mount. They are 5.5” deep, and I haven’t taken things apart back there to see if there is space if the stock enclosure is scrapped entirely.

I’d be interested to co-design, if you are up for it and others would be interested in following along. I think this speaker and a custom adapter would actually work for all years of LC, due to the dual voice coil, and have enough low end to actually make people feel like they have a sub in that space.

 

[willyroo]

What’s the max speaker depth we can fit in the front doors?

I have the Gladen Zero Pro HG-165ZPPP-3 midwoofer. Its mounting depth, in a Stinger 6.5" adapter, is 69.5mm (2.74"). There is very little clearance from the magnet to the window when it's down.

 

[ed94r]

I apologize, got sick once again with some nasty bacteria that had my hands feel like ice for over two months. Yes, Morels are chubby on the back end, all of them. Audison's componets are modest in size and offer all the performance. I am fan of door speakers being in enclosures, Toyota did it right in that sense. If you want to bring it back to it's original self, you can craft a cap out of birch wood and epoxy it on. If you milkshake (epoxy with fiberglass powder) the inside of it, it will become dead as a doornail, much reduced need for sound deadening.

Thanks Man, never considered creating an enclosure. Thinking now of how...

 

[Berkut10r]

Im also interested. Are these for the front speakers or rear?

Hi, those are for the front. I have a few Audi related projects on my plate and I will tackle the rears in few weeks or so.

 

[Berkut10r]

I have been toying with upgrading some of my audio components. What’s the max speaker depth we can fit in the front doors? Can your adapters give any more room? I’m currently running Morel Maximo components up front, and am hoping to go active with the Optim8 soon.

While I’m rewiring things, I’m toying with sub options in the stock location, just because I like the OEM look. Have you by chance looked at the space back there for mounting options? I’m considering trying infinite baffle with one of these, which should work decent without an enclosure but will need a super rigid mount. They are 5.5” deep, and I haven’t taken things apart back there to see if there is space if the stock enclosure is scrapped entirely.

I’d be interested to co-design, if you are up for it and others would be interested in following along. I think this speaker and a custom adapter would actually work for all years of LC, due to the dual voice coil, and have enough low end to actually make people feel like they have a sub in that space.

I can bring components forward a hair but that is about it, very little space between the door card and speakers. On the back end, I stick with OEM depth and slim-ish components. The only way to get away from it all, custom mount that will replace stock "grate", like the one in the photo. For first timers, I def recommend something other than Morel for midbass in a stock front location to avoid any headache that they may bring.

Alpine Optim 8 is a fantastic unit! I looked at one very close but ended up going with a Helix unit, only because I got an ok deal on one. Alpine Status series get my motor running, bad ass components that is for sure.

I am a huge fan of Epique series, they remind of Morel CAWs but at fraction of the cost. I have looked at options for stock sub location, nothing really stood out that was worth the effort. I am willing to help out the effort by providing brackets for you, but dimensions need to be 8x8 max. My density infill is about 70%, normal infill is about 25%. I make them out of Polycarbonate or ASA, so no matter what infill I go with, they are already pretty rigid.

 

[rbrave]

To clarify, I’m asking about both doors and the stock sub location in back. For the latter, having the print bed understanding is super helpful. What printer are you using?

 

[rbrave]

Sorry, misread your last paragraph! I’ll dig in and see what I can work out.

 

[Biga27110]

Hi, those are for the front. I have a few Audi related projects on my plate and I will tackle the rears in few weeks or so.

I would like to place an order for 2 fronts. What is the process and delivery date?

 

[rbrave]

@Berkut10r looking at options for front doors, I am about to take possession of a Mosconi DSP amp and would be interested in a printed bracket that can get me to 3” mounting depth to install a pair of Stephens MB6. Might also entertain printed sail panel mounts for the corresponding tweeter, if that’s something you would consider possible ( or have recommendations for someone else that might ).

Focusing on front stage before addressing any other elements for now. The back sub will be disconnected, and will expect I won’t miss it with the new install.

 

[dubdub20003]

8” fit in the general space behind the fronts… but need a good mounting ring to space it wider… just sayin if ya got a 3DP. Mount for a mid door midrange for those without the 3way from factory would be good too!

 

[rbrave]

Where would you mount a mid in the LC without an existing mounting point? Seems like you could fit a 2-2.5” near the sail panel in the door card, but would need to cut?

What did you have to do to fit an 8”, besides the right spacer? Not interested in cutting sheet metal.

 

[dubdub20003]

8” fits with spacer. I have not done , but another thread on here shows it and how he did. I’d like to see the OP make the spacers. As for mid, lx have the door card cut… could cut in same spot.