I have the Focal Sub 5km fitted into the OEM box. It fits without modifying the box. I 3d printed a bracket to mount it to the existing mounting holes. It’s an awesome little sub, not cheap tho
Question for the Audiophiles
- Thread starter Berkut10r
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Thanks! That is what I have with the Nakamichi system.
I found your ebay listing. What would you recommend for tweeters and rear doors. I see the Focal 5KM is a recommended sub. I am wanting to do it all: head unit, 5 channel amp, tweeters, door speakers, and rear sub. I have done a full audio swap in a Tacoma before from a kit put together by the Crutchrot people
. I just finished sound deadening/absorption project: butyl, CCF, MLV, Thinsulate.Not in a hurry so can wait for other products to become available on your site and can order all at once. Thanks!
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- #83
My man! I do not think that I will expand my inventory anytime soon due to upcoming divorce and a chicken farm purchase (my fingers are crossed). 5KM is a nicety, not a necessity. You can do a pre-loaded enclosure with a shallow sub, WavTech is the current champ in that department, check out the link to see how little of a space it takes. Many options.Thanks! That is what I have with the Nakamichi system.
I found your ebay listing. What would you recommend for tweeters and rear doors. I see the Focal 5KM is a recommended sub. I am wanting to do it all: head unit, 5 channel amp, tweeters, door speakers, and rear sub. I have done a full audio swap in a Tacoma before from a kit put together by the Crutchrot people
Not in a hurry so can wait for other products to become available on your site and can order all at once. Thanks!
Obviously please do not take any offense about the Crotchfield comment, charging full retail on most of their products in this day and age is absurd to me. Good service though.
Any updated insulation, sound proofing is always welcome. Install and tuning are the most important factors in car audio, your speakers will not sound right under poor install conditions.
After waging a war on the rear doors for several months, you can do shallow mount 6.5s but 5 1/4s are optimal.
Pending on how far you are willing to take this, I have a combo for sale consisting of Mosconi Pico 4/8 DSP amplifier (new) and Zapco LX 150.4 (Mint), both for $900. I bought Pico to run in my Audi but I could never get the voltage to up 40V to even turn the amp on, several signal boosters failed and I gave up. Zapco can put out a hair over 1K into a dual voice coil sub, or run front your front stage. Pico can do up to 240w RMS into 2 channels so if you go, just an example, two 5KMs then it would cover them easily. Not to mention that Pico would obviously get your whole truck tuned via it's 8 channel DSP, software is wicked easy to navigate on your own. You do need a measuring mic, like a Mini DSP UNK-1, to get prosumer results.
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- Thread starter
- #84
I remember now! My man! Silly question, can you go full tilt with OEM box in place? I am one of those degenerates that likes wants to be able to extract component's full capability if need be.
- Thread starter
- #85
So few months ago, I got a spare set of a-pillars for $30 dollars. I got them in case if I ever got a wild hair up my butt, to move tweeters and mids to the pillars. Well, I just test fitted them and they are on-axis to the T. Ryan, if you read this...please don't get mad at me 
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dubdub20003
SILVER Star
@rbrave i think you called it, that my non-stealth idea for the rear of my LC would take hundreds of hours… you were right. Well, it is done. It took many, many hours, and it looks soooooooo, ooooooooo bad. Just working vinyl, even expensive 4- way stretch, over the convex and concave of the rear wheel arch trim pieces was impossible. To make matters worse, we decided not to stick in the house we were in until spring, and moved out in Nov., so I lost my garage space earlier than expected, so it needed to be done, not perfect. It is so bad. For the first time ever, I have resigned to pay someone in the spring to help design and build it out right.
What I knew, but didn’t navigate well was that I was taking all the utility out of my utility vehicle. The sub can come out, so it is not that… it is that I do not have room for jack, tools, tie-downs, etc. I think the 15”sub is just too big. Need to go smaller, and thoughtfully think how I can have the rest how I want it.
That all said, it pounds. Still not tuned. Way more bass than I need. SI 15 and SI 1500.1 running it. I did tons of damping when I first got the truck, but this year I added to it, and did a lot of sound absorption. It really does not rattle much, and is super quiet riding. Not sure I’d do it again as it was a ton of work and hours, and getting trim back on was hard… but I can enjoy it now.
To be continued…
What I knew, but didn’t navigate well was that I was taking all the utility out of my utility vehicle. The sub can come out, so it is not that… it is that I do not have room for jack, tools, tie-downs, etc. I think the 15”sub is just too big. Need to go smaller, and thoughtfully think how I can have the rest how I want it.
That all said, it pounds. Still not tuned. Way more bass than I need. SI 15 and SI 1500.1 running it. I did tons of damping when I first got the truck, but this year I added to it, and did a lot of sound absorption. It really does not rattle much, and is super quiet riding. Not sure I’d do it again as it was a ton of work and hours, and getting trim back on was hard… but I can enjoy it now.
To be continued…
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- #87
My man! Wayne I told you that tirejack cubbyhole can be exploited. I am glad everything worked out great. Don't even worry about how it looks, as long as it is functional. Down the line, if it bothers that much, have a local interior shop redo it.
Hey crew,
Ive been following along off and on for months and have been doing the intel necessary to get the audio in my LC right the first time without messing with the wrong equipment.
I have come across a Moscani One 60.8 DSP; Hertz Legend ML 1800.3 7" Woofers & 280.3 tweeters from an old client looking to sell. The amp is used but the speakers are new. What can yall tell me about them? They all look to be pretty damn solid, but not sure if the 7" will fit in our doors?
Also, with the amp being 8ch; does that mean i can bridge the front stage with 4 ch, add a pair of standard speakers to the rear and have 1-2 ch left for sub? I don't want to do anything that won't fit in the factory location.
Thanks a bunch!
Ive been following along off and on for months and have been doing the intel necessary to get the audio in my LC right the first time without messing with the wrong equipment.
I have come across a Moscani One 60.8 DSP; Hertz Legend ML 1800.3 7" Woofers & 280.3 tweeters from an old client looking to sell. The amp is used but the speakers are new. What can yall tell me about them? They all look to be pretty damn solid, but not sure if the 7" will fit in our doors?
Also, with the amp being 8ch; does that mean i can bridge the front stage with 4 ch, add a pair of standard speakers to the rear and have 1-2 ch left for sub? I don't want to do anything that won't fit in the factory location.
Thanks a bunch!
I don’t think it looks THAT bad! A little like you used human skin as the covering, but I wouldn’t have expected anyone to be all that experienced with that material
This stuff really is an art. At least you are making progress - I have been swamped at work for the last year and still haven’t gotten passed the sound treatment phase. Wire is run, everything is quiet as it will get…and my SI TM65, sub, and Mosconi are still collecting dust! Here’s hoping for some nice weather over the holidays…
So doing more research...looks like those Hertz are very highly regarded, but will the 100 door fit a 3" deep speaker? The tweeters are 1.19" deep; any chance these fit in the factory location?
And I am reading insane things from this thread (and other areas of the web) about Mosconi, but also hearing their older DSP system was a pain in the ass to use. Does anyone have any experience with the One line have any input?
Thank u!
- Thread starter
- #91
Hi! OEM tweeter location would host a small tweeter comfortably without milling it out. If you were to mill it out some, maybe a 22mm unit will go in there. Not to mention, that opening is super narrow and it limit the tweeter. 280.3s are at their best when they have room to breathe. Buy the pods in the link, that is the most non-intrusive way to deploy 280s without modification, pillars come off via two phillps screws. This is the best route unless you want some permanent, like fiberglassed units in the A-Pillars.
As far as the midbass goes, my Esotar650s are only a handful of millimeters shorter than the Mille. I have plenty of space in reserve so you should be ok. I can make you an adaptor for it.
As far as the midbass goes, my Esotar650s are only a handful of millimeters shorter than the Mille. I have plenty of space in reserve so you should be ok. I can make you an adaptor for it.
Thank you for the reply! I'm going to see what kind of deal I can get on these before I get to excited, but will definitely hit you up if/when that happens.
Any input on that particular Mosconi? Or have you heard quirky things about its controls?
I have the newer One line sitting ready to install, but haven’t yet had time. I made my amp mounting setup recently - it will fit under the seat, but requires some custom bracket fabrication(as will anything else). Sizes look to be the same across the line over time.
No experience on the older software. The new software has its own learning curve, and I likely would have gone in a different direction with my purchases had the newer software not been available. That said - no experience.
No experience on the older software. The new software has its own learning curve, and I likely would have gone in a different direction with my purchases had the newer software not been available. That said - no experience.
I read most of the audio guys here are not FJ40 drivers…. But, you all have some amazing knowledgeable information about audio systems these days so I have a question
What kind of speakers would be best to use in my FJ40 doors. I’m guessing size and depth are important considerations. I have a simple am/fm/bluetooth , nothing fancy. Would be nice to have something playing in the drone sounds of the cab at 60mph
What kind of speakers would be best to use in my FJ40 doors. I’m guessing size and depth are important considerations. I have a simple am/fm/bluetooth , nothing fancy. Would be nice to have something playing in the drone sounds of the cab at 60mph
Most people try to get the parts you hear “directionally” up as high as they can to their ears - which is why you see people mounting tweeters and mids on the a-pillars or at least sail panel, whereas the speaker carrying lower frequencies stays in the footwell area. There are lots of mounting options for tweeters, but they will likely look like you put non-stock ones in unless you really try to make them blend in.
What speakers do you currently have in it? If starting fresh, would probably look into this setup from ICON and run either a coaxial speaker on its own, or components if you want to pull the soundstage up so it’s not blasting unnecessarily loud to overcome road noise. I personally like Morel’s Ultimo line for first-level upgrades, and would go with this set for a super simple, single speaker solution or this one for a separate midbass/tweeter. The latter have some simple mounting options included.
Depending on what kind of head unit you have, you may consider adding a small amp to make things sound better - but that all gets into custom wiring and may be more than you are looking for. Prioritize door treatment and installation before more gear, in my experience with my 100.
- Thread starter
- #96
Hi! I haven't done any audio related stuff on 40s but I have detailed a lot of them, therefore, I am fairly familiar with their interior nomenclature. Unless you are shooting for a hardcore SQ setup, a simple coaxial 3 or 2 way set up would be great. If you don't have anything in place to host speakers already, SOR makes a decent mounting pod. Lastly, I would shoot for a marine rated speaker since 40s are not scared of water coming in.
FJ40 and FJ55 Stock Radio, Speakers and Brackets - Specter Off-Road
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- #97
Even though I could not get my PICO to work in the Audi, I still went ahead and tuned it just in case a miracle happened. Software is very easy to navigate, Perplexity could map out what settings you need to address for your particular setup. However, you need a measuring mic like a cheapie MiniDSP units.
Thank you guys…. Very helpful information. Greatly appreciated!
Ordered the SOR mounts and the 502 speakers from Crutchfield… my fj40 only needs something listen to and break the boredom on a highway type drive. When I was a younger guy, I’d installed some really decent audio in my Chevy pickup with custom boxes for the sub, amps and eq. Songs like “ Sultans of Swing were played a lot on radio or cd…this sounded great. Once that novelty wore off for me…it was talk radio playing thru a $3000 pile of equipment…in 1987, that was a lot for car audio.
If I can get the Bluetooth to work from the iPhone…. That will be way more than I’ll need for the 40 driving “experience”
Ordered the SOR mounts and the 502 speakers from Crutchfield… my fj40 only needs something listen to and break the boredom on a highway type drive. When I was a younger guy, I’d installed some really decent audio in my Chevy pickup with custom boxes for the sub, amps and eq. Songs like “ Sultans of Swing were played a lot on radio or cd…this sounded great. Once that novelty wore off for me…it was talk radio playing thru a $3000 pile of equipment…in 1987, that was a lot for car audio.
If I can get the Bluetooth to work from the iPhone…. That will be way more than I’ll need for the 40 driving “experience”
It has been a minute since I have looked at speaker prices, especially anything in the 5” category - they got expensive! You can buy the 6.5” components for less than the 5” coax, which I suppose is a supply and demand issue. When you need a small speaker, you dont have a huge set of options.
If you want to do the most basic attempt at improving your installation with those metal SOR pods, pick up some duct seal next time you are at the hardware store and pack it into the corners. The added mass keeps the metal on metal vibrations to a minimum. If you have butyl rope around, I would likely put a little between the mounting surfaces as well.
If you want to do the most basic attempt at improving your installation with those metal SOR pods, pick up some duct seal next time you are at the hardware store and pack it into the corners. The added mass keeps the metal on metal vibrations to a minimum. If you have butyl rope around, I would likely put a little between the mounting surfaces as well.
I'm back after much research and reading this thread a handful of times. Here's my overall plan to replace the Nakamichi sound system in my 1999 LX470. @Berkut10r do you offer any mounting options (doors, sub, amp)?
- Head Unit: Kenwood DMX1058XR
- Floating 10.1" screen
- Optical digital output (planning to feed DSP/AMP via optical)
- Front Door Speakers: Morel Virtus 63.4
- Passive 3-way 4 ohms component speakers
- 1.1" tweeter, 2.5" mid, and 6.5" woofer
- Will mount the tweeter and mid in the A pillar using something similar to this except for 2.5" mids: Morel Virtus 603 , Aluminum pods for Morel Midrange and Tweeters
- Rear Door Speakers: Morel Maximo Ultra 502 MKII
- Kids in the back so would like to provide sound
- 5.25" coaxial 4 ohms
- Subwoofer: Focal Sub 5 KM
- Mounted in the stock location
- 5.75" subwoofer
- 4 ohms
- DSP/Amplifier: Mosconi One 6|10
- 6 channel DSP amplifier Class AB
- Using optical in from Kenwood
- Mounting in same place as Nakamichi amp under passenger seat
- Plan to run:
- Ch 1-2 = Front L/R Morel crossovers
- Ch 3-4 = Rear L/R Coax
- Ch 5-6 = Bridged for Sub