Question for the Audiophiles

[rbrave]

I'm back after much research and reading this thread a handful of times. Here's my overall plan to replace the Nakamichi sound system in my 1999 LX470. @Berkut10r do you offer any mounting options (doors, sub, amp)?

• Head Unit: Kenwood DMX1058XR
  • Floating 10.1" screen
  • Optical digital output (planning to feed DSP/AMP via optical)
• Front Door Speakers: Morel Virtus 63.4
  • Passive 3-way 4 ohms component speakers
  • 1.1" tweeter, 2.5" mid, and 6.5" woofer
  • Will mount the tweeter and mid in the A pillar using something similar to this except for 2.5" mids: Morel Virtus 603 , Aluminum pods for Morel Midrange and Tweeters
• Rear Door Speakers: Morel Maximo Ultra 502 MKII
  • Kids in the back so would like to provide sound
  • 5.25" coaxial 4 ohms
• Subwoofer: Focal Sub 5 KM
  • Mounted in the stock location
  • 5.75" subwoofer
  • 4 ohms
• DSP/Amplifier: Mosconi One 6|10
  • 6 channel DSP amplifier Class AB
  • Using optical in from Kenwood
  • Mounting in same place as Nakamichi amp under passenger seat
  • Plan to run:
    • Ch 1-2 = Front L/R Morel crossovers
    • Ch 3-4 = Rear L/R Coax
    • Ch 5-6 = Bridged for Sub

Thanks all!

You are putting a lot of $ into an active system, I would suggest bypassing the Morel crossover and going with the 8|10 to push all active to your speakers, and adding a separate sub / sub amp. In fact, plan for the sub, but skip for now - and then add later if you feel the need.

I have seen massive improvements in my LC since treating the doors with CLD and Fibermat. Don’t overlook everything you need (and the time!) for the installation.

 

[David310]

Thanks for the feedback @rbrave. I initially planned to go active with a Mosconi ONE 8|10 DSP plus a mono amp for the sub, but I backed down to a passive front stage to keep the install simpler (one amp and fewer new speaker-wire runs). Based on your input and thinking about this some more, stepping up to the 8|10 and adding a dedicated mono amp near the sub isn’t a big jump, and it makes sense to do it now while everything is apart.

If I go active, I can still reuse the factory wiring for the front door woofers and the rear coaxials, then run new wire up the A-pillars for the mids/tweeters and run a new line to the sub.

All covered on sound deadening/absorption as I recently wrapped up Phase 1. I used 80 mil butyl plus CCF/MLV from Second Skin on the floor, all door and rear skins got 80 mil butyl + CCF + 3M Thinsulate, and the roof has 80 mil butyl + Insul-Layer (closed cell foam) + 3M Thinsulate.

 

[SmoothLC]

I'm back after much research and reading this thread a handful of times. Here's my overall plan to replace the Nakamichi sound system in my 1999 LX470. @Berkut10r do you offer any mounting options (doors, sub, amp)?

• Head Unit: Kenwood DMX1058XR
  • Floating 10.1" screen
  • Optical digital output (planning to feed DSP/AMP via optical)
• Front Door Speakers: Morel Virtus 63.4
  • Passive 3-way 4 ohms component speakers
  • 1.1" tweeter, 2.5" mid, and 6.5" woofer
  • Will mount the tweeter and mid in the A pillar using something similar to this except for 2.5" mids: Morel Virtus 603 , Aluminum pods for Morel Midrange and Tweeters
• Rear Door Speakers: Morel Maximo Ultra 502 MKII
  • Kids in the back so would like to provide sound
  • 5.25" coaxial 4 ohms
• Subwoofer: Focal Sub 5 KM
  • Mounted in the stock location
  • 5.75" subwoofer
  • 4 ohms
• DSP/Amplifier: Mosconi One 6|10
  • 6 channel DSP amplifier Class AB
  • Using optical in from Kenwood
  • Mounting in same place as Nakamichi amp under passenger seat
  • Plan to run:
    • Ch 1-2 = Front L/R Morel crossovers
    • Ch 3-4 = Rear L/R Coax
    • Ch 5-6 = Bridged for Sub

Thanks all!

Sounds like a solid plan! Interested in your choice of h/u. What steered you in that direction (Kenwood floating)?

I've been looking at either that or the Alpine or Sony floating displays. (I'm a big fan of hi-res).

As far as I can determine (ya, with AI . . . go figure, it's all subjective I know) I've been considering the Alpine.

They're supposed to have better sonic performance vs. the Kenwood which seems to excel in features. (BTW I was a big Kenwood fan back in the day, long before JVC ruined the co. IMO).

Anyway, interested to hear your thoughts. I'm sure you can't go wrong with Kenwood, just interested in your feedback (I have more $ in audio in my LC than I care to admit vs. other types of mods.)

 

[rbrave]

Thanks for the feedback @rbrave. I initially planned to go active with a Mosconi ONE 8|10 DSP plus a mono amp for the sub, but I backed down to a passive front stage to keep the install simpler (one amp and fewer new speaker-wire runs). Based on your input and thinking about this some more, stepping up to the 8|10 and adding a dedicated mono amp near the sub isn’t a big jump, and it makes sense to do it now while everything is apart.

If I go active, I can still reuse the factory wiring for the front door woofers and the rear coaxials, then run new wire up the A-pillars for the mids/tweeters and run a new line to the sub.

All covered on sound deadening/absorption as I recently wrapped up Phase 1. I used 80 mil butyl plus CCF/MLV from Second Skin on the floor, all door and rear skins got 80 mil butyl + CCF + 3M Thinsulate, and the roof has 80 mil butyl + Insul-Layer (closed cell foam) + 3M Thinsulate.

If it helps confuse things even more, the mid in that Morel set is now being sold individually as a wideband via Crutchfield. Once you start looking at the real estate each speaker is going to take up in your skinny a-pillars or small sail panels, you may reconsider plans. I suggest printing out or making cardboard cutouts to get an idea of what your final product might look like.

I’m on the fence about pulling the trigger on the same wide bands, and building into my sail panels. I’ve been far too busy this year to do stereo upgrades beyond what I can do when I’m chasing a repair or obnoxious rattle, making yet another stereo related purchase a tough call!

 

[David310]

Sounds like a solid plan! Interested in your choice of h/u. What steered you in that direction (Kenwood floating)?

I've been looking at either that or the Alpine or Sony floating displays. (I'm a big fan of hi-res).

As far as I can determine (ya, with AI . . . go figure, it's all subjective I know) I've been considering the Alpine.

They're supposed to have better sonic performance vs. the Kenwood which seems to excel in features. (BTW I was a big Kenwood fan back in the day, long before JVC ruined the co. IMO).

Anyway, interested to hear your thoughts. I'm sure you can't go wrong with Kenwood, just interested in your feedback (I have more $ in audio in my LC than I care to admit vs. other types of mods.)

Thanks. I would honestly prefer something other than Kenwood, but it’s the only newer floating-style unit I found that still gives me a real volume knob which is a must for me. It also has optical toslink connection, which I think are superior than RCAs .

I considered the Alpine iLX-F509 which is a 9" screen (they also make 11") that I think will fit better between the HVAC vents than the 10.1" Kenwood, but not entirely sold on the separate Alpine RUX-H02 volume knob. It’s Bluetooth and coin-battery powered so I’m not sure about battery life or long-term connection reliability. I like tech, but I also like simple “analog” controls I can grab without tapping on the screen or through menus.

The other option would be to go with the Alpine and then connect the RC Mini to the Mosconi 6|8 or 8|10. Unsure where I would place it where the passenger can also access.

I'm interested to hear your thoughts on what h/u you are leaning towards and why. Thanks!

 

[David310]

If it helps confuse things even more, the mid in that Morel set is now being sold individually as a wideband via Crutchfield. Once you start looking at the real estate each speaker is going to take up in your skinny a-pillars or small sail panels, you may reconsider plans. I suggest printing out or making cardboard cutouts to get an idea of what your final product might look like.

I’m on the fence about pulling the trigger on the same wide bands, and building into my sail panels. I’ve been far too busy this year to do stereo upgrades beyond what I can do when I’m chasing a repair or obnoxious rattle, making yet another stereo related purchase a tough call!

Thanks for raising that. My hope is the 2.5" wideband will package a lot easier than a typical 3–3.5" mid. I’m going to do exactly what you suggested and mock it up with cardboard before I commit to drilling/cutting. Worst case I'll eat the cost for the pillar mounts. I don't have the skills like Berkut to get a 3.5" mid tucked up to the pillar but hoping the 2.5" can work out.

If it doesn’t work out, Plan B is to abandon the on-axis pillar setup goal and go more OEM-style with mids in the door panel like the Mark Levinson in the image below and tweeter in the stock sail.

And reminding myself that If I go active, I'll also have to set cutoffs for wideband.

 

[Berkut10r]

Thank you guys…. Very helpful information. Greatly appreciated!

Ordered the SOR mounts and the 502 speakers from Crutchfield… my fj40 only needs something listen to and break the boredom on a highway type drive. When I was a younger guy, I’d installed some really decent audio in my Chevy pickup with custom boxes for the sub, amps and eq. Songs like “ Sultans of Swing were played a lot on radio or cd…this sounded great. Once that novelty wore off for me…it was talk radio playing thru a $3000 pile of equipment…in 1987, that was a lot for car audio.

If I can get the Bluetooth to work from the iPhone…. That will be way more than I’ll need for the 40 driving “experience”

I am on old fart as well, 44, so thumping low notes wore off on me but not high fidelity, clarity over bass for me. Nowdays, there are no EQs in the dashboard, all is controlled via Sound Processors.

You should have no problems with the BT, if speakers will be underwhelmed by it, there are amps which feature bluetooth connection instead of traditional RCAs. I am one of those who uses that feature so it is an option for you.

 

[dubdub20003]

Count me as interested in pics of floating displays…

 

[Berkut10r]

David, 2.5" is a go in stock ML openings. I stuffed Morel CCWR254 in there will no issues before, so if you go this route, you should not have difficulties.

I can help with the midbass mounting brackets. Knowing that you are not going to use OE amplifier, it simplifies the wiring for the rear as well. Question, do you plan on rewiring the doors or just tapping into OE wires?

 

[Berkut10r]

Count me as interested in pics of floating displays…

Oh that pre-2003 freedom to install whatever stereo you want...I get sad but then I cheer up when I hear my transmission shift into 5th gear.

 

[knuckle47]

I am on old fart as well, 44, so thumping low notes wore off on me but not high fidelity, clarity over bass for me. Nowdays, there are no EQs in the dashboard, all is controlled via Sound Processors.

You should have no problems with the BT, if speakers will be underwhelmed by it, there are amps which feature bluetooth connection instead of traditional RCAs. I am one of those who uses that feature so it is an option for you.

44? You’re 44? My mom would say “ at your age I could spit on the sidewalk and crack it”. Frankly she was not kidding even at 90 Hell, I’m 72. Going on 73 in 5 weeks….
I get it though, I listen to classic rock, 50’s, 60’s and 70’s….news and Dr. Radio on SiriusXM ( you never know what you find out that you have ) hahaha

Good information though and I thank you for the heads up.. I could also mount something in the doors as there is a spot below the window crank but may need a spacer to manage the depth. Those SOR metal panels will be here next week… so that should be ideal

 

[David310]

David, 2.5" is a go in stock ML openings. I stuffed Morel CCWR254 in there will no issues before, so if you go this route, you should not have difficulties.

I can help with the midbass mounting brackets. Knowing that you are not going to use OE amplifier, it simplifies the wiring for the rear as well. Question, do you plan on rewiring the doors or just tapping into OE wires?

Thanks! Any mounting brackets for the 2.5” mids to go in the Mark Levinson location? I’ll see how the mids/tweeters look in the A pillar shifting to door and sail if they look too cramped. Either way, I would like to have the A pillar mounting option from the Ebay seller and any mounting options you may offer for mids in ML door position as a backup.

As far as door brackets, I can run new wiring from amp to door or keep stock wiring. What do you recommend? I heard stock wiring is pretty good but haven’t fully inspected yet.

 

[David310]

Count me as interested in pics of floating displays…

Here’s one of the Alpine 9” I mentioned as an alternate option to the Kenwood. It nestles between the HVAC vents better than a 10.1” screen.

 

[Berkut10r]

Thanks! Any mounting brackets for the 2.5” mids to go in the Mark Levinson location? I’ll see how the mids/tweeters look in the A pillar shifting to door and sail if they look too cramped. Either way, I would like to have the A pillar mounting option from the Ebay seller and any mounting options you may offer for mids in ML door position as a backup.

As far as door brackets, I can run new wiring from amp to door or keep stock wiring. What do you recommend? I heard stock wiring is pretty good but haven’t fully inspected yet.

My position on mids mounting, OEM door opening chokes them. Dash corners is the most optimal location for them, you want them beaming onto the windshield. Pillars are second best, you can mount them on-axis (best for people who do not have audiophile passengers since all the focus is on the driver) or off-axis.

This is my opinion and mine only, wiring is super skimpy and dated. I replaced all of mine with the speaker wire that came in Focal's install kit, woofersetc has them on sale constantly, and it has been a worthy upgrade in my honest opinion.

 

[David310]

Thanks @Berkut10r. To answer your question, I will run new speaker wires to all speakers and the sub. I drafted something up to see how the 2.5” mids and tweeters look in the A pillar and think that’s where I will place them. I never noticed how shallow the dash is compared to a modern car until now.

 

[Berkut10r]

Thanks @Berkut10r. To answer your question, I will run new speaker wires to all speakers and the sub. I drafted something up to see how the 2.5” mids and tweeters look in the A pillar and think that’s where I will place them. I never noticed how shallow the dash is compared to a modern car until now.

Yes, it is windshield and steering wheel and barely anything in between.

 

[KillerBox]

The door tweeter pods that Berkut10r built for me.

 

[KillerBox]

P.S. Someone asked about 8” door speakers. I did get TM8 into my doors but, I destroyed three of them by the speaker hitting the door card.

I found a solution that works & my amp is capable of 500w x 2 to these midbass & I listen pretty loud.

 

[Berkut10r]

In case anyone is wondering about Ryan's dash setup, it allows a superb two-seat tune instead of a most common, one-seat. To set the stage properly, you need at least one 4" mid that can play down to 80 Hz to match the left and right mids. You want either two mids or one 6.5".

 

[Berkut10r]

@KillerBox, too bad your AF tweeters are much larger than Gladen's Aerospace 20. I redesigned my A-Pillar pods, so I no longer need the V1 on-axis units. I finished the new pods last night and dropped them off with my interior guy so they can be wrapped in alcantara this morning. The new pod design resembles MTI's off-axis pillar enclosures. Nobody in the Tampa area would wrap my originals due to the sharp edges; all said it is too much work and carries a high risk of failure.