Question for the Audiophiles

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Lads and Lassies,

I apologize for the leave of absence but I am back with vengeance. I got my forum membership updated and website has been updated with 100 Series install goodies. Turn around time for brackets is one day unless it is a custom bracket. Toyota stripes bracket is available, send me an email through the site if you are interested in it.

 
@Berkut10r looking at options for front doors, I am about to take possession of a Mosconi DSP amp and would be interested in a printed bracket that can get me to 3” mounting depth to install a pair of Stephens MB6. Might also entertain printed sail panel mounts for the corresponding tweeter, if that’s something you would consider possible ( or have recommendations for someone else that might ).

Focusing on front stage before addressing any other elements for now. The back sub will be disconnected, and will expect I won’t miss it with the new install.
I apologize for a...two months late response. Midbass door brackets are doable for just about any brand within reason, there is room in the door cavity. I have been quietly working on tweeter pod for an OEM location, no viable solution as of yet. Which Mosconi unit did you go with? The Pro?
 
8” fits with spacer. I have not done , but another thread on here shows it and how he did. I’d like to see the OP make the spacers. As for mid, lx have the door card cut… could cut in same spot.
8s are definitely doable. i do my best to keep it as compact as possible. Combo shown in the pic is a standard 8" (insert a Michael Scott joke) kit for Audis, however, it requires for the foundation to be mounted first and then the woofer. This is a deviation from norm because for my customers, I ship out everything pre-mounted for a true plug-n-play product with no requirement for a customer to do anything but mount it and enjoy. Same can be done for our trucks, matter of fact, I am certain that with enough motivation and moderate amount of fabrication to the door card itself, everything from DynAudio MW182 (faux 10 inch units) to Morels of all kinds can be had. However, why go that route? Jarring Morel CAW638 (6") or 538 (5") units can pound the doors off if installed, fed and tuned properly.

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I apologize for a...two months late response. Midbass door brackets are doable for just about any brand within reason, there is room in the door cavity. I have been quietly working on tweeter pod for an OEM location, no viable solution as of yet. Which Mosconi unit did you go with? The Pro?
I went with the Mosconi One, still waiting to finish the install after a bunch of bad weather around here. Stuck with the 6|10 expecting to go two way with widebands, bridging the other two channels for a sub to keep the system simple.

After looking for small widebands am now a bit discouraged about finding something that could be molded into the sail panels on-axis. Any strong feelings between the Audison vs Morel 2-2.5” offerings?
 
I went with the Mosconi One, still waiting to finish the install after a bunch of bad weather around here. Stuck with the 6|10 expecting to go two way with widebands, bridging the other two channels for a sub to keep the system simple.

After looking for small widebands am now a bit discouraged about finding something that could be molded into the sail panels on-axis. Any strong feelings between the Audison vs Morel 2-2.5” offerings?
I am working with Miguel Rios, owner of WaveForm Tuning, on this on-going SQ-L project of mine and he schooled me on a lot of things over the past few months. My old philosophy was to put everything in the sail panel, one tweeter and midrange on-axis and one ribbon tweeter off-axis sweeping across the windshield. He said that is not the way, tweeter in the panel and midrange in the door and corner dash if your car came with it. He also advised me that our rigs will never sound phenomenal with mid in the sail panel or dash because our dash/a-pillars are non-existent in comparison to other vehicles. I call it a "midget dash". I thought he was crazy but he wins SQ competitions for Team Morel all over SouthEast and his CX-50 sounds absolutely mental. Sound stage is warm, precise and right in the center. His car is in the link below to scope out, he recently installed a 10" Brax sub in the passenger foot well. Waveform Tuning - https://waveformtuning.com/demo-car here is his show car.

As far as your question goes, I am a Morel guy because they are warm. Morel's CCWR-254 wide-band is a long time favorite on this board and I agree with them, tough to beat for the money. Audison is phenomenal but it is not as warm as Morel, their components can get harsh if tuning is not on-point.

Ooo this is getting interesting!
Just keep in mind a good 8" mid woofer will move a serious amount of air, so you'll need to make sure you've braced everything, and run Dynamat (or equivalent) over a good area of the steel sections.
Oh yeah, I am a firm believer that multi-layered approach to sound treatment is the only way to achieve serenity with minimal resonance. I lay down boom mat as my base level, then CLD and decoupler of some sort (fiber or foam). Resonix has a fantastic variety to buy from and few how-to guides. I also prefer "curtain" method but it is not necessary, CLD just needs to be applied in key areas and does not require a 100% coverage. I also tape any and all connectors and re-sheath old wires.

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This week's project, to make a viable rear door solution. I am thinking infinite baffle, like the front, or a small sealed enclosure. 5" Ciare (many others will work as well) and tweeter combo (also an example) would work with OEM management and aftermarket. Not needing a large driver for OEM application is a hill I am willing to die on.


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I would rather treat my pee pee as a musket and pack it full of glass shards than to do this process again. I have cargo area to redo (removing worthless Siless) and update wiring, this "refresh" started three lifetimes ago. OEM foam sheath was crumbling and it does not come off peacefully, tessa tape and Resonix tape are worthy replacements.


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I have an LX470 with upgraded door speakers. A local sound shop performed the installation and mounted the new speakers in the LX style plastic box enclosures. The plastic enclosures worked well in my world of deep water crossings by keeping the speakers dry. Later on I bought a LC and found the speaker mounts are open to the rear. The LX speaker boxes are a completely different shape from the LC opening. I would like to get some closed enclosures for the LC so that it is on par with the LX. Do you know if there are any sealed enclosures available for the LC?
 
I have an LX470 with upgraded door speakers. A local sound shop performed the installation and mounted the new speakers in the LX style plastic box enclosures. The plastic enclosures worked well in my world of deep water crossings by keeping the speakers dry. Later on I bought a LC and found the speaker mounts are open to the rear. The LX speaker boxes are a completely different shape from the LC opening. I would like to get some closed enclosures for the LC so that it is on par with the LX. Do you know if there are any sealed enclosures available for the LC?
Are you looking to replace the enclosure in the process or just want the rear sealed? If you want just the rear sealed, I can design you a butt for it and all you have to do is epoxy it at the seams. If you want a whole new enclosure, I am working on that but things like the transmission losing "Park" keeps me from working on it as much as I should.
 
Are you looking to replace the enclosure in the process or just want the rear sealed? If you want just the rear sealed, I can design you a butt for it and all you have to do is epoxy it at the seams. If you want a whole new enclosure, I am working on that but things like the transmission losing "Park" keeps me from working on it as much as I should.
I just want the rear sealed.
 
I just want the rear sealed.
Sorry for the late response. What speakers are you running so I can gauge the depth I have to work with.
 
For those that are wanting to run 8s, offsetting the woofer by about 7mm will prevent any chance of it hitting the door card. I read in other threads about people ruining their woofers when it came to running 8s, this is one of the ways to combat that issue. I still do not believe in a need to run a woofer that size in this vehicle at this day and age, good bass and midrange can be had via smaller size units.

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This week has been eventful. Few more days and project "8 inches up Bertha's rear" will be finally finished. I had a vision of an adapter to "rise out of a door card" and sit somewhat flush with that door. I cut the least amount of the door card as I possibly could, thin layer of bondo , followed for the first layer of fiberglass which was applied to the inner door card. FG is mixed with milled glass which will assist with making the door card as acoustically dead as possible. Tomorrow is second layer of FG and prep the face for paint. Adaptor is made out of Polycarbonate.

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Brave man. Should look great. Are you thinking closed in back? Is that what the silver is?
 
I did not forget about you., R&D is underway. Also, there is zero information about whether those specific units are happy in enclosures or infinite baffle. If Qts values are high for those speakers, they will quit sounding decent. For the sake of the conversation, lets say they are infinite baffle type of units, you can place them in one of these enclosures that I am baking right now and closed cell foam can be placed on the butt of it to prevent water from coming in.

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Brave man. Should look great. Are you thinking closed in back? Is that what the silver is?
Hey. Not brave, a caveman who is too stupid to quit is more like it. That silver thing is just a sheet of raw fiberglass, the adapter is extended almost to the door cavity, so the woofer will vent into it. The whole thing is sealed with 4 layers of various sound deadening material. Here is what it looks like mock fitted, next is re-upholstering the door so it won't look like a complete hack job.

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Backofthedoor.jpg
 
I did not forget about you., R&D is underway. Also, there is zero information about whether those specific units are happy in enclosures or infinite baffle. If Qts values are high for those speakers, they will quit sounding decent. For the sake of the conversation, lets say they are infinite baffle type of units, you can place them in one of these enclosures that I am baking right now and closed cell foam can be placed on the butt of it to prevent water from coming in.

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Would you like me to pull the door panels to measure the current LC type of speaker mount? Your model looks like a good design.

I'm still shocked the interior door panels have different-sized openings for speakers between the LC and the LX.
 
Would you like me to pull the door panels to measure the current LC type of speaker mount? Your model looks like a good design.

I'm still shocked the interior door panels have different-sized openings for speakers between the LC and the LX.
No, there is not need for that. I am in polishing phase, making numerous of tweaks daily. My printer hates me.
 

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