Projecting, tinkering, fiddle-farting around: whatcha building?
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So much closer. Took the motor off and pretty much everything else. Stripped and oil quenched the parts in the pics. Need to buy a new light and buy a tool to remove the chuck and clean it up. I’ve had this thing for years and always hated how dirty it was. Oh I need to get some stickers to replace the damaged and upside down one.
Careful! Like an FJ40 resto, if you go too far, you won't want to use it any more!
Love the safety slippers.
Participated in a forging workshop and made a body hammer.
nice and hot, got some help from a bigger hammer.
hardened the heads
polished the heads and added a hickory handle.
one side is flat and the other has a crown.
nice and hot, got some help from a bigger hammer.
hardened the heads
polished the heads and added a hickory handle.
one side is flat and the other has a crown.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
Man cave in my Crater Lake project.
Got this portable band saw with base with the intention of building a vertical.
Decided to add a bracket To the original base for vertical use.
First connect it in a way that the original function is still usable.
Add a vertical post, you can see I used the material clamp for the horizontal function as lower clamp/stabilizer.
Made a plate On the original mounting point for the horizontal function and a boxed section to the vertical pillar.
All fitted and painted with a cutting table.
I will add a few nutserts to store the one brackets and screws and add an on/off switch.
Decided to add a bracket To the original base for vertical use.
First connect it in a way that the original function is still usable.
Add a vertical post, you can see I used the material clamp for the horizontal function as lower clamp/stabilizer.
Made a plate On the original mounting point for the horizontal function and a boxed section to the vertical pillar.
All fitted and painted with a cutting table.
I will add a few nutserts to store the one brackets and screws and add an on/off switch.
Nice work, how do you like the hand sheer?
I had that exact shear in my shop at school (I think) for the welding/fab classes. It was ok, not that great at cutting 1/4“ rod, would distort the cut ends and it was hard to get an exact cut. Worked well with 1/8" bar stock.
It works fine for basic cutting in a strait line you have to keep the connections tight.
I have a few other types, rolling and throatless Beverly shear for more complex curves.
I use a small cutting table for exact square or angles.
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Added the OE brackets and screws, a small bracket for the Allen wrenches and a cable storage.
added a nutsert on the top to store the table when used horizontaly.
Ordered a switch to finish it off.
added a nutsert on the top to store the table when used horizontaly.
Ordered a switch to finish it off.
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Working on the design of hinges for a piece of furniture.
the doors must go up vertically but are inside the frame when closed.
Here is the design for now.
the doors must go up vertically but are inside the frame when closed.
Here is the design for now.
One man’s trash....!
easily entertained, l had a blast ‘rooting’ around in an assortment of ....
You name it 
today out in the garage !
Doing a long overdue inventory (30 years ?) of my ‘treasures’ that (l might need
some day !)
Here are some smalls that l found that may be handy in upcoming projects....
easily entertained, l had a blast ‘rooting’ around in an assortment of ....
You name it today out in the garage ! Doing a long overdue inventory (30 years ?) of my ‘treasures’ that (l might need
some day !) Here are some smalls that l found that may be handy in upcoming projects....
TREASURE!!!One man’s trash....!
View attachment 3080403
easily entertained, l had a blast ‘rooting’ around in an assortment of ....
Doing a long overdue inventory (30 years ?) of my ‘treasures’ that (l might need
Here are some smalls that l found that may be handy in upcoming projects....
View attachment 3080415
I have mostly inventoried my home improvement supplies at this point. Well over a hundred containers separated by categories. Still not 100% accessible, but at over 80%, I am getting to use a lot of stuff at this point that has been hanging around for decades.One man’s trash....!
easily entertained, l had a blast ‘rooting’ around in an assortment of ....
Doing a long overdue inventory (30 years ?) of my ‘treasures’ that (l might need
Here are some smalls that l found that may be handy in upcoming projects....
I just this morning replaced the temporary light fixture in the bathroom I gutted and remodeled last winter, finally ending that project. When I pulled the extra long screws out of the ceramic base, bare-lght fixture, I made I point of telling my wife that I had originally purchased the package of screws for a project I had done for my father when I was in my 20s.
I discovered some wood damage during scraping and repainting wood headers. This particular damage was 12' up at the front entry. The two lower corbels support the main header. On the right end corbel, a slight gap developed between the two section of wood allowing rain to enter and remain trapped because the rest of the paint was intact. This lead to some rot. The first step was to take an Oscillating saw and cut away all rotted wood.
Here is the header with the rot cutaway.
Some old school lath was cut and formed into a corner followed by securing with a Bradly nailer using 1" staples. The lath was kept about 1/4 below surface to allow for wood bondo filler for a finish repair.
Expansion foam was used to fill most of the area that was removed.
With the foam cured, the area was ready for wood bondo.
After a few skim coats followed by sanding the damage was repaired. Primed and ready for paint.
With the exposure facing west, the summer sun will no doubt cause expansion resulting in another crack opening up between the corbels and top beam.
Part II to follow...
Here is the header with the rot cutaway.
Some old school lath was cut and formed into a corner followed by securing with a Bradly nailer using 1" staples. The lath was kept about 1/4 below surface to allow for wood bondo filler for a finish repair.
Expansion foam was used to fill most of the area that was removed.
With the foam cured, the area was ready for wood bondo.
After a few skim coats followed by sanding the damage was repaired. Primed and ready for paint.
With the exposure facing west, the summer sun will no doubt cause expansion resulting in another crack opening up between the corbels and top beam.
Part II to follow...
A template was made from butcher paper but working alone with a span of over 8' made it a little tricky. Using a stapler I was able to tack the rough template making slight adjustments using a utility knife. With the staples carefully removed the template was then transferred to a thin (1/16") piece of particle board. A jigsaw did a great job with a fine toothed blade followed by hole drilled at center line to accommodate a small finish nail allowing the 2nd template to be fitted and verified. Two more small holes (top) were then drilled to support the template and keeping it flat on the header.
Once it looked good the template was pulled leaving the three small (headless) finishing nails.
I found a remnant piece of 14 gauge plate that was long enough since I needed 97" X 18". The pattern didn't allow for mr to break a 90º return so it required welding.
I use this ArcZone tungsten sharpener. It provides a very nice point with a steep angle.
The material was set up to provide a corner joint. I wanted to blend the weld for a clean outside corner.
You can see the 1/16" filler was slightly bigger than the joint but did a good job filling. Back step welding technique was used to keep unwanted distortion.
This shows the amount of back welding and skipping around based on the heat zones. Usually about 3" runs worked for this application.
After blending with a 2" 60 grit rol-loc on a die grinder followed up with 150 grit on a DA the corner looks to be one piece.
The iron clad was installed and sealed with siliconized paintable caulk. Small truss head screws were used temporarily installed to allow the caulk to cure.
Next the final step...
Once it looked good the template was pulled leaving the three small (headless) finishing nails.
I found a remnant piece of 14 gauge plate that was long enough since I needed 97" X 18". The pattern didn't allow for mr to break a 90º return so it required welding.
I use this ArcZone tungsten sharpener. It provides a very nice point with a steep angle.
The material was set up to provide a corner joint. I wanted to blend the weld for a clean outside corner.
You can see the 1/16" filler was slightly bigger than the joint but did a good job filling. Back step welding technique was used to keep unwanted distortion.
This shows the amount of back welding and skipping around based on the heat zones. Usually about 3" runs worked for this application.
After blending with a 2" 60 grit rol-loc on a die grinder followed up with 150 grit on a DA the corner looks to be one piece.
The iron clad was installed and sealed with siliconized paintable caulk. Small truss head screws were used temporarily installed to allow the caulk to cure.
Next the final step...
After a couple of days the old school 2" plain square head lags arrived as did some cool cast iron 3" stars.
The truss head screws removed the holes were opened to serve as pilot hole for the 5/16" x 2" square head lags.
The same caulk was used prior to driving in the lags to ensure no future water penetration.
These are the 3" cast iron stars.
The square head plain lags really contribute to the overall look.
A close up the square headed lags. You can see the tiny bead of siliconized caulk under the lag above the star.
Looks on the small side from the ground but its fairly long. The patina should look very nice after the monsoon season.
I should never have to deal with water intrusion again with the iron clad protection.
This fall the exterior will get painted.
The truss head screws removed the holes were opened to serve as pilot hole for the 5/16" x 2" square head lags.
The same caulk was used prior to driving in the lags to ensure no future water penetration.
These are the 3" cast iron stars.
The square head plain lags really contribute to the overall look.
A close up the square headed lags. You can see the tiny bead of siliconized caulk under the lag above the star.
Looks on the small side from the ground but its fairly long. The patina should look very nice after the monsoon season.
I should never have to deal with water intrusion again with the iron clad protection.
This fall the exterior will get painted.
