Either way is good to be honest. When I did my 60, I did it body off. It's really just preference. My line of thinking is with the body off you can work on both at the same time. However, if you're doing a lift, you want the body on to add weight.
Project WTF have I gotten myself into???
- Thread starter Noahrob
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Scored on the tools, I have always wanted a brake, the 3' size is perfect for a garage shop.
I think you going to use the chair.
Those 37s on 80 wheels look sweet on the LX !!!!!!!!!
When do we get to hear about the new rear axle, or are you not using it on this project ?
If your taking suggestions form the peanut gallery . A stretch would be sweet, especially if you're going to wheel it. Just sayin
Always impressed with your dedication and drive to get a project done.
Looking forward to the Dusy !!!!
- Thread starter
- #43
Originally I wanted to put one tons into it but I don't like the 70 inch wide axles and the way it makes an fj40 look, and I'm not ready to narrow two axles as a critical path item to getting the truck moving. So my thinking was that I'd find some 60 inch axles and go with that. The axle I scored is a factory e locker out of a 2002 Tacoma that 60in WMS to WMS. I'm not sure if I moved the perches in on the axle or outboard the hangers on the frame but I'll figure that out once I get the tub off the frame and can get a better look at things.
Now I'm on the lookout for an fj60 or fj62 front axle. If I can't find one before I get to it I'll use the late model fj40 axle I have and either put different knuckles and hubs on it or just get the ones I have working depending on what's the cheaper route. I'll just run spacers to match the width of the rear.
My main goal is to get the rig moving as quick as possible, without totally having to redo things over and over again.
As far as the stretch, I'm still kind of thinking about that. I definitely think I can get 96 maybe even 98 inches of wheelbase by flipping springs and moving hangers. I was going to run a 3 inch piece of square tube across the front frame horns and that would give me a spot where I can mount the hangers a good solid 3" further out which would move the axle forward in addition to the spring flip about 5" total. I'll have to do some more measuring but I think with the Saginaw power steering conversion that would be sweet. for the rear I have this leaf springs out of a defender there eat really skinny leaves and the pack itself is longer so I'm thinking if I flip the hanger in the back I can push the axle back a couple of inches as well.
Of course, I'm still planning and don't really know what I'm doing, so all ideas are welcome
Now I'm on the lookout for an fj60 or fj62 front axle. If I can't find one before I get to it I'll use the late model fj40 axle I have and either put different knuckles and hubs on it or just get the ones I have working depending on what's the cheaper route. I'll just run spacers to match the width of the rear.
My main goal is to get the rig moving as quick as possible, without totally having to redo things over and over again.
As far as the stretch, I'm still kind of thinking about that. I definitely think I can get 96 maybe even 98 inches of wheelbase by flipping springs and moving hangers. I was going to run a 3 inch piece of square tube across the front frame horns and that would give me a spot where I can mount the hangers a good solid 3" further out which would move the axle forward in addition to the spring flip about 5" total. I'll have to do some more measuring but I think with the Saginaw power steering conversion that would be sweet. for the rear I have this leaf springs out of a defender there eat really skinny leaves and the pack itself is longer so I'm thinking if I flip the hanger in the back I can push the axle back a couple of inches as well.
Of course, I'm still planning and don't really know what I'm doing, so all ideas are welcome
It’s a lot easier to work on the tub with it off as you have full access to both sides which helps with cutting, drilling out spot welds, and welding (with copper backing for thin sheet metal). But you do have to pay attention to alignment - somehow 
.
I paid 3x for just my China freight 3’ brake - you scored so get up out of that chair and start cutting. It’s only metal, albeit rusty - in my case I didn’t go full bore on metal removal, if wire wheeling only revealed some pitting but no holes I didn’t necessarily cut it out. But I wasn’t after mall cruiser perfection, just functionality. It’s a ranch truck.
.I paid 3x for just my China freight 3’ brake - you scored so get up out of that chair and start cutting. It’s only metal, albeit rusty - in my case I didn’t go full bore on metal removal, if wire wheeling only revealed some pitting but no holes I didn’t necessarily cut it out. But I wasn’t after mall cruiser perfection, just functionality. It’s a ranch truck.
- Thread starter
- #46
Trying to reproduce the outer curve from the rear quarter panel supports, but the one I pulled off is pretty bent, so there was a lot of cutting, fitting, grinding, cursing, sitting in the chair and then doing it all over again. I tried with 10 gauge and 18 gauge, but think I have it close enough to reproduce. I'll make 4 out of 16 gauge and then skin them in 18gauge.
I'm thinking of running the 2.5" square tubing past the tail gate opening since the curve doesn't start until further out, it'll add strength. I'll weld the curved ends to the tube which I'll cap so water doesn't get in.
I'm thinking of running the 2.5" square tubing past the tail gate opening since the curve doesn't start until further out, it'll add strength. I'll weld the curved ends to the tube which I'll cap so water doesn't get in.
Metal blade in your saber saw for those radius cut. If you don't have a plasma.
- Thread starter
- #49
I decided to make the new sill out of 2.5" .120 wall. One of the things I always forget is that there are so many people on this site and other sites that are great fabricators that they can bang things out. For guys like me it just takes a long time to make anything, it is not what I do for a living, I'm not a tradesman, I am a hack but having a blast
- Thread starter
- #50
I fit it, test fit, fit it again and ended up making the curves out of 10 gauge steel I had lying around the garage. I cut four half moons. I put a door on to make sure everything lined up and shimmed the sill to the height it would be at with the bodymounts.
I made the 2.5" .120 wall tube longer so that all four body mounts go into that piece of steel as opposed to having them go into the sides. just made it easier to make the sides because they don't need to have the same structural rigidity. I skinned the wings with some 18 gauge I had lying around and then used the flap wheel to make it purdy.
I got this quart of paint from the dump as part of a chemical exchange program. I poured a ton of it in the tube and tried to get the entire inside covered.
I made the 2.5" .120 wall tube longer so that all four body mounts go into that piece of steel as opposed to having them go into the sides. just made it easier to make the sides because they don't need to have the same structural rigidity. I skinned the wings with some 18 gauge I had lying around and then used the flap wheel to make it purdy.
I got this quart of paint from the dump as part of a chemical exchange program. I poured a ton of it in the tube and tried to get the entire inside covered.
That looks Hack all right. Just kidding, for those of you just getting to know Noah He has way more skill then some of the tradesman that I know and wast no time getting projects done never giving himself enough credit for a job well done. Did I mention a great Guy to go wheeling with ?
Looking good my friend, you got me looking around at 40 series.
It’s a 74 or later. Oil filter is on the passenger side.
I could talk your ear off for hours about fabricating patches and panels and welding and chasing and a bunch of techniques for all that inevitable sheetmetal work. It’s a process, and you gotta start somewhere, and by the time you’ve scratched a dozen repairs off your list, you’ve improved your skill set and tool collection to the point you might consider re-repairing some of the crap you started with. But don’t worry, in a year you’ll need this thread just to remember everything you did.
Git er duuuunn!!
Git er duuuunn!!
During the summer of ‘92 I rebuilt my tub out of a sheet of 1/8” steel. The rear crossmember was built out of 1/8” steel. 28 years later it’s all still solid, despite not having done any fancy rust treatment. I can attest to how solid & sturdy 1/8” steel is.
Keep up the good work.
Keep up the good work.
- Thread starter
- #56
The motor was a 74. I sold it to a guy on here, but felt really bad as the day he picked it up we noticed this...luckily he just wanted the head and we worked out a good deal, but I'm glad that I didn't waste anytime on that motor...
- Thread starter
- #57
During the summer of ‘92 I rebuilt my tub out of a sheet of 1/8” steel. The rear crossmember was built out of 1/8” steel. 28 years later it’s all still solid, despite not having done any fancy rust treatment. I can attest to how solid & sturdy 1/8” steel is.
Keep up the good work.
Wait, what..you made your whole tub out of 1/8 plate? Dang "Heavy Metal"!!! I bought 16 gauge, figured it I replaced everything straight with that it'll be less perfect, but less expensive. Then I can splurge for the things I can't make, like the bend in the quarter panel or a fender....things like the floor and rocker panels though...I will get "close enough". I'm not after a show truck, just want to stop the Fred Flintstone feet through the floor problem
Wait, what..you made your whole tub out of 1/8 plate? Dang "Heavy Metal"!!! I bought 16 gauge, figured it I replaced everything straight with that it'll be less perfect, but less expensive. Then I can splurge for the things I can't make, like the bend in the quarter panel or a fender....things like the floor and rocker panels though...I will get "close enough". I'm not after a show truck, just want to stop the Fred Flintstone feet through the floor problem
It makes for good weight distribution. With the top on 950kg on the front end and 1050kg on the rear. 28 years later it’s still solid... and it rides better than other SWB rigs.
- Thread starter
- #59
Here is shot of the painted will. Also, I got these shears from harbor freight for like $40 and they actually work pretty good. I used them to start making some patches. I borrowed my buddies Miller passport, awesome little machine, hook it up to an external tank and bam!
