Build Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #1,202
Haha. 21 years of medical sales.
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- Sep 26, 2003
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- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
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I need to get one of those inner boots also. Glad to see CityRacer is making them.
- Thread starter
- #1,207
Unless you ever had to actually use them. No power out is a killer on the early Warn upright.
- Thread starter
- #1,209
Started my end of the electric line lock project @Rainman and I started.
Having no Ebrake for short stops and when working on my truck while running kinda sucks.
Having a split case and a 40 axle does not leave many options.
Rainman made me some sweet 10mm to NPT lines with bends to allow small adjustments with translation from me to him.
So far the worst part by far has been drilling the holes in this thick part of the frame for the nutserts to mount the LL
While I was under there grounding it I found I was missing the speedo cable retainer tab. Holy crap. That was instant disaster if it had backed out.
Luckily the longer one just needed some grinder to make it work.
Spare parts rule.
Having no Ebrake for short stops and when working on my truck while running kinda sucks.
Having a split case and a 40 axle does not leave many options.
Rainman made me some sweet 10mm to NPT lines with bends to allow small adjustments with translation from me to him.
So far the worst part by far has been drilling the holes in this thick part of the frame for the nutserts to mount the LL
While I was under there grounding it I found I was missing the speedo cable retainer tab. Holy crap. That was instant disaster if it had backed out.
Luckily the longer one just needed some grinder to make it work.
Spare parts rule.
- Thread starter
- #1,211
I would refuse to pay for the shoddy job I did here but what’s done is done. I’m not sure how many of these I would have to do to get it right with no wrinkles.
Biggest tip.
Don’t get overspray with the 3M adhesive on the headliner or on your hands. You need hands to smooth quick like and you can smear it on your pretty new liner.
I tried some Noico but it did not stick good enough not to worry me it would fall out one hot day.
You do one 1/2 at a time. I got a bit better on the second 1/2. Should have done rear first so my screw ups were not as visible to me while driving
Done. C- job
Biggest tip.
Don’t get overspray with the 3M adhesive on the headliner or on your hands. You need hands to smooth quick like and you can smear it on your pretty new liner.
I tried some Noico but it did not stick good enough not to worry me it would fall out one hot day.
You do one 1/2 at a time. I got a bit better on the second 1/2. Should have done rear first so my screw ups were not as visible to me while driving
Done. C- job
You can fix that with a heat gun
- Thread starter
- #1,213
So just heat it up and stretch out the wrinkles?
Pretty much. The heat will soften the headliner material as well as the glue. The only issue you may have being that it’s a perforated liner, is the glue may ooze though the perforations. A little glue goes a long way with a headliner. Use too much and you will have a mess that will look like crap that can’t be corrected.
Sucks. Just smear some dirt over the wrinkles to add to the patina look and call it done.
- Thread starter
- #1,218
I need one of those cool trays like the Delta Beast has up there
Easy enough. That was just some c-channel if I remember correctly. Available by the foot.
Speedy Metals 8" x 2.260" x 0.220" A-36 Steel Channel