Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

OTRAMM

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Warrenton, VA
No matter what, I think the best "lift" that occurred in that doorway was when the tub was removed from Bob's 40. Man o man it was quite the entertaining show!
There are still chunks of tub in the parking lot from doing that. Isn't that how you remove tubs?
 

shmukster

 
 
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Apr 20, 2003
Messages
5,426
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NE PA coal region
Grille and parts.jpg
Bumper and winch.jpg
Engine bay.jpg
Bob thanks for the compliment!

Patrick, took the engine out to replace the leaking rear main seal and also the side cover gasket. With the dual battery setup it would have been a real PITA to replace the side cover gasket in place. As it was I removed the distributor (large body later 2F unit) to do the side cover gasket. I had replaced the rear main back in 2010 when I installed the engine (which came out of my orange and white piggy after I flopped it) with a non-OEM seal. damn thing leaked from the day I fired up the engine and I finally got the s***s of it and pulled the engine. Having the engine out also allowed me to clean up the engine compartment and a bit and did some re-wiring too.

Those are Man-a Fre headers and the best I have ever used- and not just on a Toyota engine. They were on my 40 when I bought it, when I swapped my engine (it's a Jim C hi-po rebuild from around 2005) into the truck I used a new Toyota manifold gasket and it hasn't leaked at all since. The header has a very heavy flange that in my opinion would be hard to distort. The way the header (6 into 2 design) couples to the exhaust pipes is awesome. Uses two ball joints and they never leak either. They were originally purchased for and installed in the truck when it was at Ironpig back in 2008/2009. They still look good and work well. I would highly recommend them to anyone considering a header for their F/2F/3FE engine. Yeah I believe they are compatible with the EGR part of the 3FE smog setup. The attached photo shows how the exhaust pipes look without the engine and header in place. The pipe ends are flanged and fit over the ball ends of the headers and they get clamped together with two bolts through the heavy flanges on each section. Chrysler used to use exhaust systems like this way back when.

As you can see I pulled the front and apart to do this job and had to pull the bumper and winch to get the engine out. I don't have enough height to lift the engine high enough to clear the winch. I use a block and tackle for lifting like this and once the engine is hanging off the chains I roll the truck backwards out from under the engine. Sure was nice using the block and tackle to remove and then reinstall the bumper and winch!!!!!

Engine bay.jpg
 
Last edited:

Stumpalama

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View attachment 1867090 View attachment 1867091 View attachment 1867083 Bob thanks for the compliment!

Patrick, took the engine out to replace the leaking rear main seal and also the side cover gasket. With the dual battery setup it would have been a real PITA to replace the side cover gasket in place. As it was I removed the distributor (large body later 2F unit) to do the side cover gasket. I had replaced the rear main back in 2010 when I installed the engine (which came out of my orange and white piggy after I flopped it) with a non-OEM seal. damn thing leaked from the day I fired up the engine and I finally got the s***s of it and pulled the engine. Having the engine out also allowed me to clean up the engine compartment and a bit and did some re-wiring too.

Those are Man-a Fre headers and the best I have ever used- and not just on a Toyota engine. They were on my 40 when I bought it, when I swapped my engine (it's a Jim C hi-po rebuild from around 2005) into the truck I used a new Toyota manifold gasket and it hasn't leaked at all since. The header has a very heavy flange that in my opinion would be hard to distort. The way the header (6 into 2 design) couples to the exhaust pipes is awesome. Uses two ball joints and they never leak either. They were originally purchased for and installed in the truck when it was at Ironpig back in 2008/2009. They still look good and work well. I would highly recommend them to anyone considering a header for their F/2F/3FE engine. Yeah I believe they are compatible with the EGR part of the 3FE smog setup. The attached photo shows how the exhaust pipes look without the engine and header in place. The pipe ends are flanged and fit over the ball ends of the headers and they get clamped together with two bolts through the heavy flanges on each section. Chrysler used to use exhaust systems like this way back when.

As you can see I pulled the front and apart to do this job and had to pull the bumper and winch to get the engine out. I don't have enough height to lift the engine high enough to clear the winch. I use a block and tackle for lifting like this and once the engine is hanging off the chains I roll the truck backwards out from under the engine. Sure was nice using the block and tackle to remove and then reinstall the bumper and winch!!!!!

View attachment 1867083
Nice work Gary!
 
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