Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

Stumpalama

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@TLEX you might look at running a hotter plug, like a BPR4EY, especially when running hi-test gas.
 

Betteron2wheels

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Guys,

I'm in the middle of an axle rebuild on my LX450, should I weld the splines and ditch the c-clip this since the axles are out?

welded axle splines.jpg
 
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I wouldn't. It's not as big in the 80 series from what I've seen. How confident are you that you can place the tack weld properly?
 

Stumpalama

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Guys,

I'm in the middle of an axle rebuild on my LX450, should I weld the splines and ditch the c-clip this since the axles are out?

View attachment 1621719
I martacked my front axles on the front of my FJ40 (before I switched to Long fields) with excellent results.
That being said, I haven't researched doing this on an 80.
My 1st instinct is, why not?
 
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Maybe it has to do with 80's mostly running drive flanges vs lock out hubs? IDK. Is there an external snap ring on the end of a 40/60 birf with lock outs installed?
 

Stumpalama

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The snap ring he is referring to is the one inside the birf. All the Martack does is keep the inner shaft from walking too far into the diff, just like the snap ring. It's a pretty simple and ingenious trick. It certainly makes swapping a birf a snap.
40s and 60s never had drive flanges, but if they did, it would be no different than selectable hubs.
 

Stumpalama

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So, it looks like it is done on 80s as well. The pic posted is from this thread in the 80 section.
I can detail the process I used to mark my 40 axles, if your interested in doing it.
 
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I get all that. What I'm curious about is how the birf stays fully seated on or walking off the splines of the inner axle shaft without the cir-clip. Does the lock out keep the birf located properly? Or is this irrelevant?
 

Stumpalama

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I get all that. What I'm curious about is how the birf stays fully seated on or walking off the splines of the inner axle shaft without the cir-clip. Does the lock out keep the birf located properly? Or is this irrelevant?
The birf stays in place by the c-clip at the end of the border through the drive flanges. It doesn't move much. The Martack keeps the inner axle from moving too much in or out.
 

Stumpalama

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Changed out some weak LED brake lights (Sylvania Zevo 1157R), upgraded the reverse lights to super bright LEDs with a beam lens on 'em and changed out the weak-ass front clearance lights for some 1156 LEDs from Amazon.
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Stumpalama

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And I got a new toy, err tool too!
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Swag offroad V3.0 table for my HF portaband. This will make cutting patch sheetmetal pieces and brackets a snap.
I broke the cheap HF blade before finishing the cut.
I need to get a few quality 10 tooth blades for the big stuff.
 
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