NGK R BPR5EY II
Did not help acceleration stumbles, have been reading on the cleaning the pcv??? Valve
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
- Thread starter Stumpalama
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NGK R BPR5EY II
Did not help acceleration stumbles, have been reading on the cleaning the pcv??? Valve
- Thread starter
- #1,242
The ones you pulled out or the ones you installed?
They look kind of smokeyView attachment 1620938
Finished fuel lines, interior back together, Fuel filters, new plugs, my new wires did not fit, new voltage regulator in, everything bolted back up, fresh fuel ( high test baby).
View attachment 1620940
Delivered to a top secret location for acceleration trouble shooting
Let me know if you need some help. I'll like getting dirty.
- Thread starter
- #1,245
@TLEX you might look at running a hotter plug, like a BPR4EY, especially when running hi-test gas.
forgot to mention the old plugs were at least 15 years old, here are the new ones that are in now.
NGK #7082 G-Power Platinum Alloy Spark Plugs -- BPR5EGP -- 6 PCS *NEW*
- Thread starter
- #1,247
I don't think platinum's are recommended for these engines...
- Thread starter
- #1,248
EDIT: I read it somewhere before, but I think it just comes down to the fact that the platinum ones don't improve much in a dizzy engine
I didn't know a 2F had performance
Guys,
I'm in the middle of an axle rebuild on my LX450, should I weld the splines and ditch the c-clip this since the axles are out?
I'm in the middle of an axle rebuild on my LX450, should I weld the splines and ditch the c-clip this since the axles are out?
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I wouldn't. It's not as big in the 80 series from what I've seen. How confident are you that you can place the tack weld properly?
- Thread starter
- #1,252
I martacked my front axles on the front of my FJ40 (before I switched to Long fields) with excellent results.
That being said, I haven't researched doing this on an 80.
My 1st instinct is, why not?
Maybe it has to do with 80's mostly running drive flanges vs lock out hubs? IDK. Is there an external snap ring on the end of a 40/60 birf with lock outs installed?
- Thread starter
- #1,254
The snap ring he is referring to is the one inside the birf. All the Martack does is keep the inner shaft from walking too far into the diff, just like the snap ring. It's a pretty simple and ingenious trick. It certainly makes swapping a birf a snap.
40s and 60s never had drive flanges, but if they did, it would be no different than selectable hubs.
40s and 60s never had drive flanges, but if they did, it would be no different than selectable hubs.
I get all that. What I'm curious about is how the birf stays fully seated on or walking off the splines of the inner axle shaft without the cir-clip. Does the lock out keep the birf located properly? Or is this irrelevant?
- Thread starter
- #1,257
The birf stays in place by the c-clip at the end of the border through the drive flanges. It doesn't move much. The Martack keeps the inner axle from moving too much in or out.
I stumbled across it on the Copper State Cruiser's tech section. I'm now trying to improve the knuckle sealing surface and don't think I'll mess with trying to do any mods this time 'round. I'm anxious to put the thing back together.
Martack Inner Axles
Martack Inner Axles
- Thread starter
- #1,260
And I got a new toy, err tool too!
Swag offroad V3.0 table for my HF portaband. This will make cutting patch sheetmetal pieces and brackets a snap.
I broke the cheap HF blade before finishing the cut.
I need to get a few quality 10 tooth blades for the big stuff.
Swag offroad V3.0 table for my HF portaband. This will make cutting patch sheetmetal pieces and brackets a snap.
I broke the cheap HF blade before finishing the cut.
I need to get a few quality 10 tooth blades for the big stuff.