Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

[TRDdrew]

You already have a normal 80. Should just turn this one into a buggy

gotta fix everything first

 

[afgman786]

gotta fix everything first

Buggy doesn't need straight panels or any of that nonsense

 

[iptman]

Drove down to ECGS in North Carolina to get my front e-locker installed. Was wrapping everything up with the tech, asked about any break-in procedure for the e-locker, and he said that I didn't need anything special for the locker but I did need to follow their procedure for the 4.88s they put in the front. To make a long story short, I never asked them to regear the front, so they're giving me a very, very good deal to just regear the rear to 4.88 since that's a lot faster and easier than pulling the front diff that was just installed, rebuilding it with the OE 4.30s, and then reinstalling it.

So now I gotta upgrade to 35s... boy math. Gotta figure out how to unload my current 33s, whether I need to do anything else to clear the 35s, and what specific dimensions are the best for my 17 in 0 offset wheels.

So....how do I order that deal?!

 

[Pulgasari]

So....how do I order that deal?!

Get me a good deal on some skinny 35s and I’ll share the secret sauce

 

[TRDdrew]

Put in some more work on FZJ80, ended up using only a section of the core support I got from @matzell turns out that the core support in the truck is completely rust free so just swapped the bad section for the good. Still need to pull the frame but I'm very pleased with how the front end is starting to line back up.

Put on a spare set of 80 wheels with some 33 KO2s at least for the time being. Lastly cut the whole exhaust off of it which had more holes in it than Swiss cheese. Start gathering materials to remake my own

Still on hunt for a turn signal valance if anyone has one. I can fix the one I have but easier just to replace

Yes I know in needs a new radiator lol

 

[kevin in okinawa]

nice work Andrew!

 

[kevin in okinawa]

Threw some new calipers and rotors on the front brakes recently. The old rotors were warped and making a lot of heat.

The HF hydraulic press made pushing out/pushing in the wheel studs a breeze!

 

[Jakes40]

Cut some frame reinforcements for my swing shackle mounts. I didn’t like how this one turned out and cut another one. Same concept it just came out neater. Got the driver side totally welded in working on the pasture side and a new hydraulic steering ram axle mount.

 

[TRDdrew]

Cut some frame reinforcements for my swing shackle mounts. I didn’t like how this one turned out and cut another one. Same concept it just came out neater. Got the driver side totally welded in working on the pasture side and a new hydraulic steering ram axle mount.

looks good, that will certainly stiffen it up

 

[CrabCake]

Even though my 80 is 2k miles away, I'm still working on projects...or at least coordinating and ordering stuff!

Got my transmission shipped out to C&Co in Denver, showed up there yesterday, just waiting for the bell housings to arrive from Australia so they can get started on the 5 speed A750F swap!

Next up, I'm probably going to have them do the EMU Black ECU...they've developed a plug and play setup with their proprietary harness just for the 80's...since mine is OBD1, it is a must have if I do boost in the future, but should give me gains of 30+hp in their opinion just with better engine management. If nothing less, again, it makes me more boost ready! They feel that it's pretty much the same gains as bolting on a stock supercharger, but a lot cheaper and a smarter upgrade for me at this time.

Lastly, I received my iBooster adapter from TorFab...it's an electric booster kit to get rid of the vacuum booster on the brakes...uses Honda and many other currently available iBooster units which can be had for under $200 for a 10k mile wreck pull. It works with the OEM master (mine is new), and just needs a simple 3 wire harness to hook up that I can get on eBay for $40. All in all, it's cheaper than a good OEM booster (I have a Seikens which is supposed to be top of the line under OEM, can't even get them anymore, but was more than this whole conversion). Everyone that has done this on 80's and other rigs (long time hot rod or diesel mod) says that it's night and day. Plus it keeps the boost on if it has key-on power, even if the motor dies (thinking steep grade crawl!).

Oh yeah, I'll be laying several tons of river stone as a bed for my wife's new She-Shed greenhouse that's coming in a couple of weeks...my hard labor penance for my toys!

 

[jht3]

Busy few months on my '91 80 series... I rebuilt the driver's side hub and rebuilt the A/C system. I was hoping the hub rebuild would improve my sloppy steering but nope. At least my A/C blows cold now!

I also bought my first welder (MIG) and I have been practicing with that in preparation for my exhaust replacement project. I was just about to start that when I noticed both my front and passanger foot carpets were soaked. I have had some trouble with my sunroof leaks in the past but nothing like this. When I have noticed it, the water seems to come in from the A pillar near the grab handle and the fabric seam between the A pillar fabric and the headliner. The front drains are cleared. The rear drains are probably clogged and I have been unable to unclog them. But even when I isolate the test to the front drains, I get some water inside from my A pillar.

I am going to do one more test to determine this is coming from the sunroof before I seal the sunroof completely with seam sealer. I don't use it anyway and it seems like fixing it properly is more trouble than it's worth. Apparently removing a '91's headliner is a PITA and I will destroy it in the process.

been dealing with this myself

last year i thought it was the front drains in the rockers being clogged, as water was sloshing in the rockers. so i pulled one of the two bolts in the pocket where the drain tubes terminate to help evacuate the water where it gets in. haven't noticed any sloshing since.

just recently i let the truck sit on the street and found water on the passenger side, from the 2nd row to the 1st, where the chassis harness runs. there is a natural slant to the road, so water in the sunroof channels will mostly flow that way. found a trickle of water coming down the a-pillar but the trim and headliner were dry to the touch. removed what i could and water is getting in from the sunroof area. i THINK from one or both screws in the front corner.

front drains are def clear. rear drains is hard to tell, but i pushed string trimmer line up from the rear as far is i could get.

my fix so far, was to remove the plastic 90* "covers" (for lack of a better term) in the front corner of the sunroof tray and applied a rope of "dum dum" or 3m weatherstripping to "glue" those corners down and create a better "dam" to prevent water that is in the drain channel from getting to those screws and penetrating the cabin. last 2 storms i've been dry. poured last night so need to go check on it later this morning.

if i have any more signs water, i'm going to shove some thin line into the sunroof seal to tighten up the fit against the body. i also have some vertical play in the glass panel itself, so might pull the glass and add a thin washer to each of the mount points. and break the plastic trim but who cares.

UPDATE: no obvious water ingress. just checked the truck. had a blue shop towel laying between the partially dropped headliner and sunroof corner, and it is bone dry after last nights deluge. do i dare button it all back up?

 

[CrabCake]

I'd say slap it back together....and slap the issht out of the guy that decided somewhere along the line that just about every f'n car/truck has a sunroof!

Just chased this down in my wife's Mini Clubman, rear drains are impossible to reach without pulling the rear glass panel out...fortunately I got it sorted, but it almost caused me to get rid of it. I did get rid of my '13 Explorer Sport because of water issues too, but that was because Ford used some crappy seam sealer on the earlier versions that cracks and peels up after 10 years along the entire roofline spot welds under the roof rails. I was looking at a VERY clean '22 F250 SD/Tremor to replace my wife's car when it was possibly on the chopping block...took it for a test drive and water was running down onto the passenger footwell from a recent rain...guy at the dealer said that the windshield was replaced for inspection (crack), but no way was I buying that with MORE water issues!

 

[jht3]

i too hate sunroofs with a passion. every car i've owned has had one b/c that's what us americans want. SMH

and this 80 sunroof is different than the BMW ones i've worked on in the past. even my 30 year old BMW has replacement gaskets and adjustability up/down to get a good seal.

i put it all back together. a pro and con is that i don't have carpet, but instead vinyl flooring and underneath that is closed cell foam. nothing to absorb water but any water can sit under there for a LONG time and i never know it.

 

[HoundDog]

I finally got my 40 back on the road after three years. OTRAMM fixed my brake booster and rear brake shoe separation issues. I fixed the hazard lights, marker light and got the blower motor working. It passed VA inspection and is ready to rock n roll. It runs good and I’m driving it around Warrenton a lot more to work out anymore kinks. Expect to see me show up again at a club meetup soon.

 

[CrabCake]

I finally got my 40 back on the road after three years. OTRAMM fixed my brake booster and rear brake shoe separation issues. I fixed the hazard lights, marker light and got the blower motor working. It passed VA inspection and is ready to rock n roll. It runs good and I’m driving it around Warrenton a lot more to work out anymore kinks. Expect to see me show up again at a club meetup soon.

View attachment 4203303

Looks great! Next meeting is this coming Wednesday...just sayin'!

 

[CrabCake]

Andrew got to work on the Coastal Offroad bumper on his 4Runner, but the regulator on the gas bottle had a leak and lost a bunch of gas and ran out. Nice beads to start though!

Since that was done for the weekend, got to mock up the bumper on the Exploder…going to send both to the powdercoater when the 4Runner bumper is ready, hopefully later this week.

 

[CrabCake]

And did a little upgrade on the M101A2…

 

[NearJetties]

Finally some TE37s I can afford .

Still fixing some paint. This is my first doing one of these so definitely a learning experience.

1/10th scale Vanquish VS-410 portal builders kit up next.

 

[MOB324]

i too hate sunroofs with a passion. every car i've owned has had one b/c that's what us americans want. SMH

and this 80 sunroof is different than the BMW ones i've worked on in the past. even my 30 year old BMW has replacement gaskets and adjustability up/down to get a good seal.

i put it all back together. a pro and con is that i don't have carpet, but instead vinyl flooring and underneath that is closed cell foam. nothing to absorb water but any water can sit under there for a LONG time and i never know it.

I am glad your fix is holding. After some reflection, I realized the pain to try to fix it wasn't worth it. Sunroofs are for southern California, not for the two months of the years when it's nice to be outside in NOVA lol. I bought some body sealant, sealed it shut from the roof, and called it a day. Hasn't leaked since!

 

[TRDdrew]

De-flared the new 80 and roughed out the quarter dent in prep for body work. I could see there was some rust in the rear wheel wells, I investigated further, and it was about what I was expecting to find. I'm having PTSD flash backs to working on @toyactor truck lol, I'll get that all patched up in the up coming weeks and I'll weld up all the flare holes as well.

Gonna be working on the Tundra this weekend with a cooling system refresh. AISIN water pump, thermostat, fan clutch with bracket and a new DENSO radiator.