Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

[TRDdrew]

Finishing up some repairs on the 100 from the last cove trip, ended up bending the borla exhaust pretty bad, nothing lined up lol ended up having to replace the muffler and the mid pipe

 

[Pulgasari]

In a bit of an awkward situation, I replaced my power tilt/telescope motors and when reinstalling the telescoping collar, snapped one of the bolts that holds it down. I have an extractor kit and a drill, but the smallest extractor I have is 1/8 in which is pretty close to the size of the bolt. Did a little drilling already and couldn’t get it to catch.

Should I just keep drilling and try and avoid the threads, or buy a smaller extractor, or is there something else I’m not considering? Maybe I could get a junkyard column if it isn’t too difficult to swap?

Went to the shop down the road and they said it would be a multi hour job to remove it (feels like they don’t want to do it).

Any help greatly appreciated!

 

[TRDdrew]

In a bit of an awkward situation, I replaced my power tilt/telescope motors and when reinstalling the telescoping collar, snapped one of the bolts that holds it down. I have an extractor kit and a drill, but the smallest extractor I have is 1/8 in which is pretty close to the size of the bolt. Did a little drilling already and couldn’t get it to catch.

Should I just keep drilling and try and avoid the threads, or buy a smaller extractor, or is there something else I’m not considering? Maybe I could get a junkyard column if it isn’t too difficult to swap?

Went to the shop down the road and they said it would be a multi hour job to remove it (feels like they don’t want to do it).

small drill bit to start, center punch and go all the way through with it, then work your way up to a decent size drill bit and the correlating extractor. it may be easier to remove the column and do it out side of the truck be carful with the clock spring

 

[OTRAMM]

Judging by the other the hole, it looks to have been loctited. That is not going to be fun to remove with an extractor. You may want to try some controlled heat as well to loosen the loctite.

 

[Pulgasari]

small drill bit to start, center punch and go all the way through with it, then work your way up to a decent size drill bit and the correlating extractor. it may be easier to remove the column and do it out side of the truck be carful with the clock spring

Great, gonna go ahead and do this. Will see how far I get with the drill bits and then investigate removing the column if that doesn’t work.

Judging by the other the hole, it looks to have been loctited. That is not going to be fun to remove with an extractor. You may want to try some controlled heat as well to loosen the loctite.

I don’t think there’s any significant amount of loctite, I was previously able to remove both bolts relatively easily by hand and then the top one just snapped when using a hand tool to tighten it back down. Seems to be original hardware.

 

[OTRAMM]

Great, gonna go ahead and do this. Will see how far I get with the drill bits and then investigate removing the column if that doesn’t work.


I don’t think there’s any significant amount of loctite, I was previously able to remove both bolts relatively easily by hand and then the top one just snapped when using a hand tool to tighten it back down. Seems to be original hardware.

That hardware is under nearly zero stress. If it broke on install there's likely an underlying cause. Are you sure it's not cross threaded?

 

[Blue77FJ40]

In a bit of an awkward situation, I replaced my power tilt/telescope motors and when reinstalling the telescoping collar, snapped one of the bolts that holds it down. I have an extractor kit and a drill, but the smallest extractor I have is 1/8 in which is pretty close to the size of the bolt. Did a little drilling already and couldn’t get it to catch.

Should I just keep drilling and try and avoid the threads, or buy a smaller extractor, or is there something else I’m not considering? Maybe I could get a junkyard column if it isn’t too difficult to swap?

Went to the shop down the road and they said it would be a multi hour job to remove it (feels like they don’t want to do it).

View attachment 4192427
View attachment 4192428View attachment 4192429

Any help greatly appreciated!

Use left hand thread drill bits, but slather Kroil on first. They will help remove the bolts.

 

[Pulgasari]

That hardware is under nearly zero stress. If it broke on install there's likely an underlying cause. Are you sure it's not cross threaded?

At the time it didn’t feel like it was but I guess that’s the only plausible explanation. No difficulty going in up until the moment it snapped.

 

[CrabCake]

Looks like you could over-drill it a touch and re-tap if you bung up the original threads. May be a slightly larger bolt when done, but looks like plenty of material to still hold fine.

 

[Pulgasari]

Looks like you could over-drill it a touch and re-tap if you bung up the original threads. May be a slightly larger bolt when done, but looks like plenty of material to still hold fine.

I think I may need to go with this option. I do have a hand tap and die kit but there aren’t very many options on the smaller end - M6x1.0 is probably what I’ll need to find a 10-12mm bolt for.

I was able to drill through the bolt, but wasn’t able to get it to rotate afterwards. Maybe I mangled something, it feels like the bolt and the metal around it are fused together. I applied a lot of Kroil and no combination of grabbing the lip around the outside or putting the extractor in will get what remains of the bolt to spin.

Steering column is in the vehicle for now and I really don’t want to remove it.

Just gonna try to tap the bigger hole tomorrow, if that doesn’t solve it I think I’ll give up and throw money at the problem.

 

[MOB324]

Busy few months on my '91 80 series... I rebuilt the driver's side hub and rebuilt the A/C system. I was hoping the hub rebuild would improve my sloppy steering but nope. At least my A/C blows cold now!

I also bought my first welder (MIG) and I have been practicing with that in preparation for my exhaust replacement project. I was just about to start that when I noticed both my front and passanger foot carpets were soaked. I have had some trouble with my sunroof leaks in the past but nothing like this. When I have noticed it, the water seems to come in from the A pillar near the grab handle and the fabric seam between the A pillar fabric and the headliner. The front drains are cleared. The rear drains are probably clogged and I have been unable to unclog them. But even when I isolate the test to the front drains, I get some water inside from my A pillar.

I am going to do one more test to determine this is coming from the sunroof before I seal the sunroof completely with seam sealer. I don't use it anyway and it seems like fixing it properly is more trouble than it's worth. Apparently removing a '91's headliner is a PITA and I will destroy it in the process.

 

[imperium]

Busy few months on my '91 80 series... I rebuilt the driver's side hub and rebuilt the A/C system. I was hoping the hub rebuild would improve my sloppy steering but nope. At least my A/C blows cold now!

I also bought my first welder (MIG) and I have been practicing with that in preparation for my exhaust replacement project. I was just about to start that when I noticed both my front and passanger foot carpets were soaked. I have had some trouble with my sunroof leaks in the past but nothing like this. When I have noticed it, the water seems to come in from the A pillar near the grab handle and the fabric seam between the A pillar fabric and the headliner. The front drains are cleared. The rear drains are probably clogged and I have been unable to unclog them. But even when I isolate the test to the front drains, I get some water inside from my A pillar.

I am going to do one more test to determine this is coming from the sunroof before I seal the sunroof completely with seam sealer. I don't use it anyway and it seems like fixing it properly is more trouble than it's worth. Apparently removing a '91's headliner is a PITA and I will destroy it in the process.

If the 80 series windshield setup is anything like the 100 series (it could be completely different, I have no idea), I'd check to make sure the windshield isn't leaking into the A pillar. With the 100s, if a replacement windshield was installed poorly then it will leak and cause all sorts of problems. Ask me how I know .

 

[Pulgasari]

Went to drill some more today to try and get a hole big enough to fit my M6x1.0 tap in, and somehow the drill spun the remainder of the bolt out the back on the first try. Guess it just really didn’t want to go left. Got all the remaining hardware in, and now the power tilt/telescope FINALLY works like it should.

So relieved that this is finally behind me and I’m so grateful for all the help everyone gave me here. I’m starting a new job at the end of the month, so until then I’m going to get as many Cruiser projects out of the way as possible.

 

[JakeisbadatThis]

Since i relocated my battery to the rear, I had to think of a new solution for jumper lead hook ups. Last time at the cove i just put them straight to the busbars that i put in the empty battery tray. So i put in a jumper cable remote hook up, i used the extra winch wires from when i warrantied my original badlands winch. In the future i'll probably bump up the wire gauge to 2/0 so it matches what i ran to the battery.

Theres a plastic divider in between the lugs, but the grill acts as a divider too, tested with my new alltop air compressor. I picked the alltop because @1MOA recommended it, and i got the quad hose hook up thing because i got spoiled using @imperium 's. I didn't go morflate though, its alltop as well.

This thing is stupid fast, i didn't time it but it took all four 35s from 14psi to 50 in the time it took me to let the dog out and and yell at her to stop eating deer poop.

 

[ace10]

Replaced the rear hatch struts on my 100 this week After having a couple of close calls with my face on the corners.
80 something bucks well spent. Should be good for another twenty years.

 

[OTRAMM]

Replaced the rear hatch struts on my 100 this week After having a couple of close calls with my face on the corners.
80 something bucks well spent. Should be good for another twenty years.

Sounds like tall people problems

 

[iptman]

I'm working on removing this old trailer wiring harness from my 40. I thought these were interesting fabric ties and figured they were from a dealer install but the blue plastic splices are certainly more recent that 1977. Though I suppose it could be an initial trailer harness install and a later on update/redo.

 

[TRDdrew]

So been doing some wrenching on the new to me 80, have a laundry list of things to do to it but I at least wanted to try and get the front end body work sorted. Started to straighten out the core support and driver inner fender. I got the front end sitting a ton better than it was but headlight was still too far back. I decided the best thing to do in this case was just to replace the core support and inner fender which @matzell hook me up with. Next it will go to the shop to have the driver frame rail straightened out as I did have to take loose the body mount to get things to line up

Old removed and new one fitted last night, I know the photos don't make it look to bad but that entire inner fender was tweaked front to back. I couldnt get any of the fender bolts to line up even after a pull. No photos of the new one fitted but once wrestled into place the fender pretty much just dropped right on.

The rail end will be tough, Its badly buckled right at the body mount, It will take some time and patience but im confident I can walk it back out

 

[afgman786]

So been doing some wrenching on the new to me 80, have a laundry list of things to do to it but I at least wanted to try and get the front end body work sorted. Started to straighten out the core support and driver inner fender. I got the front end sitting a ton better than it was but headlight was still too far back. I decided the best thing to do in this case was just to replace the core support and inner fender which @matzell hook me up with. Next it will go to the shop to have the driver frame rail straightened out as I did have to take loose the body mount to get things to line up

View attachment 4196973

View attachment 4196974

View attachment 4196975

Old removed and new one fitted last night, I know the photos don't make it look to bad but that entire inner fender was tweaked front to back. I couldnt get any of the fender bolts to line up even after a pull. No photos of the new one fitted but once wrestled into place the fender pretty much just dropped right on.

The rail end will be tough, Its badly buckled right at the body mount, It will take some time and patience but im confident I can walk it back out
View attachment 4196976

You already have a normal 80. Should just turn this one into a buggy

 

[Pulgasari]

Drove down to ECGS in North Carolina to get my front e-locker installed. Was wrapping everything up with the tech, asked about any break-in procedure for the e-locker, and he said that I didn't need anything special for the locker but I did need to follow their procedure for the 4.88s they put in the front. To make a long story short, I never asked them to regear the front, so they're giving me a very, very good deal to just regear the rear to 4.88 since that's a lot faster and easier than pulling the front diff that was just installed, rebuilding it with the OE 4.30s, and then reinstalling it.

So now I gotta upgrade to 35s... boy math. Gotta figure out how to unload my current 33s, whether I need to do anything else to clear the 35s, and what specific dimensions are the best for my 17 in 0 offset wheels.