- Thread starter
- #601
I had the motors too for cheap... but I don't want to rub it in.
BTW, I still have those front shafts and birfs for you, Bart.
BTW, I still have those front shafts and birfs for you, Bart.
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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Oh yeah, I'll take those. Please bring them to the next meeting.
- Thread starter
- #603
Yessir.
I got my remote winch controller installed could not test it because my solar battery maintainer is not working as thaught and my battery is dead. throw it on the charger for a couple of days and its good to go. Optima yellow top ounces back once again!
tried to hook up an amp for my IPhone but it decided it would rather let its smoke out than be seen in My Junk!
Also made a mount for a 2500lb HF wench on my trailer. but now will have to rethink the solar charger setup.
tried to hook up an amp for my IPhone but it decided it would rather let its smoke out than be seen in My Junk!
Also made a mount for a 2500lb HF wench on my trailer. but now will have to rethink the solar charger setup.
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
- Threads
- 140
- Messages
- 3,478
- Location
- Commonwealth of N.VA
- Website
- www.capitallandcruiserclub.org
Had Ryan pull himself from death to install some new bearings, abs rings, and keepers on some Yukon rear axles.
Had to camoflauge the truck from my HOA for a week with the tires floating in the wheel wells.
To plug the brake lines I used some cheap brake cylinders. Way better than a zip tied rubber hose. Made bleeding the brakes easy. Didn't want to have to screw with abs running dry, if that is even passively possible.
Tore the third out and finally got the spartan lunchbox locker installed. Spent some time confirming the torque specs that I remembered from the last time some years ago. Oddly enough I had those committed to memory. Initial backlash was about 12.5-13 thousandths, and ending backlash set to exactly 8 thousandths. Had a little panic when I had the third apart and couldn't find the spring loaded pins for the locker...they were under a piece of brown cardboard in the box.
New brake shoes installed...which took the most time since about that time my back and abdominal muscles started to spasm from a mix of fatigue, injury, lack of food/water, and akward body positioning. I recall doing some forced stretching while under the truck with a flashlight in my mouth and humming a song.
Brakes bled and new wheel studs installed.
Tomorrow's test drive will tell.
Had to camoflauge the truck from my HOA for a week with the tires floating in the wheel wells.
To plug the brake lines I used some cheap brake cylinders. Way better than a zip tied rubber hose. Made bleeding the brakes easy. Didn't want to have to screw with abs running dry, if that is even passively possible.
Tore the third out and finally got the spartan lunchbox locker installed. Spent some time confirming the torque specs that I remembered from the last time some years ago. Oddly enough I had those committed to memory. Initial backlash was about 12.5-13 thousandths, and ending backlash set to exactly 8 thousandths. Had a little panic when I had the third apart and couldn't find the spring loaded pins for the locker...they were under a piece of brown cardboard in the box.
New brake shoes installed...which took the most time since about that time my back and abdominal muscles started to spasm from a mix of fatigue, injury, lack of food/water, and akward body positioning. I recall doing some forced stretching while under the truck with a flashlight in my mouth and humming a song.
Brakes bled and new wheel studs installed.
Tomorrow's test drive will tell.
Got the power stearing back together, the battery charged, and started the old Girl up after a long winter. And with it still strapped to the trailer I can turn the wheels lock to lock with one finger. I'm prity impressed! I have not put a ram on it yet I will have to see how it does in the rocks!
Replaced the front rotors and pads on my 80. I went with Brembo rotors off Amazon ($60 each) and EBC green pads. Now I just need to figure out how to drop my banged up drive shafts and put on my good spares and maybe I'll have a smooth ride again.
It was interesting though, one side had a good bit of moly birf grease in the hub and the other side had almost none. The only thing I think of is I put too much moly grease in one knuckle and it all just oozed out through the spindle past the birf and back up in to the hub.
It was interesting though, one side had a good bit of moly birf grease in the hub and the other side had almost none. The only thing I think of is I put too much moly grease in one knuckle and it all just oozed out through the spindle past the birf and back up in to the hub.
Pulled the clutch release cylinder to rebuild it, but the cylinder bore has some roughness. Not sure the rebuild makes sense unless I can use a wheel cylinder hone to polish it out. Anyone have thoughts or recommendations?
- Thread starter
- #611
You shouldn't really have moly grease in the hub... it should be high speed wheel bearing grease.
Was the grease in the knuckle or the hub? 2 very different places...
Yeah that's the problem. It looks like they're mixing. I use the Valvoline green/blue bearing grease in the hubs and gray moly in the knuckles. The only thing that can be happening is the moly grease from the knuckle is squeezing around the birf stub shaft that sticks through the spindle and working its way back in to the hub.
I just spent the last 2 hours mounting my M12000 behind my ARB bumper and after getting everything wired up the damn thing sounds like there's a washer tumbling around in the gear set. 
It definitely didn't sound like that when I took it off so I'm not sure what the hell happened.
It definitely didn't sound like that when I took it off so I'm not sure what the hell happened.
- Thread starter
- #614
Is the clutch lever fully engaged or disengaged?
- Thread starter
- #615
Check your axle breather as well.
Clutch engaged, disengaged, forward and reverse. I'm so pissed about it right now. It's such a PITA to get that thing in behind the bumper.
I do need to check the axle breathers. I've never actually looked at them before.
I do need to check the axle breathers. I've never actually looked at them before.
- Thread starter
- #617
So it makes the noise no matter what? How about when pulling cable free spooling?
Did you take anything apart besides just removing the winch?
Did you take anything apart besides just removing the winch?
I think I know what happened here. Back in the Fall I changed out the drum supports (old ones had stripped out mounting threads) for a set of used ones a Warn tech sent me for free. He asked me the length of the drive shaft which was 12 inches long and his response was that I "might" have to cut is down to 11.839 inches (yes he went down to thousandths). When I changed out the drum supports it went back together fine with the drive shaft as is and I could have sworn I tested it then on the bench but can't remember doing it at this point. I'm guessing that extra .161 inches wasn't enough to prevent it going back together properly but is now binding somewhere inside the winch causing the issue. Now I need to take this stupid thing out again, take it apart, hope I didn't do any real damage and cut down the drive shaft down.
The bellcrank assemblies for my parking brake on the 62 were frozen. Removed them, used some heat and PB Blaster to get the pins out, some sandpaper and anti-seize and she is working as good as new.