- Thread starter
- #721
You have to keep wiping them down after the CLR clean. The blue 40. Id get polish and wax on that one everywhere there is not red rust and then you can keep wiping oil on the rust
Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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I thought that I'd share some science with this thread. My bezel is too white when I bought the 40, something is off.
So, here is a reproduction stamped steel bezel. I just finished removing all of the green paint that it came with using 220 wet/dry paper, some wire brushes, even a razor blade and a file at times. After stripping all the paint, I applied Boeshield first, then I got a can of Fluid Film, at O'Reilley's, applied that with steel wool and a paper towel. I'm going to maintain it in a shiny state, but, that doesn't mean that I won't let it rust a bit.
The hardware is M6x1 Phillips head with washers and lock washers up front. I used a nylock nut on the back side of the bib, so the hardware doesn't wind up on the highway (instead of the factory spacer, or a fuel line cut to a spacer). The nylock nut insures that anyone's going to need more than a Phillips screwdriver, and a couple of minutes, to remove my bezel for their wall-art.
Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
@ wngrog …on post # 5 you treated this window area. I have some rust coming in on the dash and other areas surrounding the wind shield frame. Im going to drop the windshield, replace the rubber and treat the rust. CLR scrub then Penetrol on inside dash. penetrol outside.
im thinking a combo of fluid film and Penetrol in the joint where the rubber gasket goes.
your thoughts?
im thinking a combo of fluid film and Penetrol in the joint where the rubber gasket goes.
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- Thread starter
- #724
I prefer fluid film. None of my experiments with Penetrol have been great.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
If your pulling window and rubber might as well fully treat it, i.e repaint out to the rubber edge.
- Thread starter
- #726
I personally think you can treat without paint.
Paint means it’s got to be perfectly prepped. Fluid Film creeps. Stops rust.
Depends on the end goal.
Paint means it’s got to be perfectly prepped. Fluid Film creeps. Stops rust.
Depends on the end goal.
Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
I am not pulling the window, I am folding it down to inspect the cowl/window frame junction anticipating rust based off what I have seen in the photos above. I live on the beach in a salt air environment which I realize isn’t the best. I love driving a 40 and am very much interested in keeping this one preserved. While I did paint the hood, bib, fenders that was primarily to have a color matched vehicle. Also gave my son some experience with paint and body work. End goal @wngrog is much the same as yours …..mechanically sound beautiful, blemished, Landcruiser
- Thread starter
- #728
New challenge. Prior owner said they “clear coated” over the patina but whatever this s*** is it’s got the texture of sand paper. I was able to get it semi smooth with CLR and scotchbrite. Only did one fender. I’m dreading the rest of the job. I’m going to bite off a little at a time.
Build thread is Powda Blue 74
Build thread is Powda Blue 74
- Thread starter
- #730
I don’t know. It’s literally like sand paper
Try acetone?
- Thread starter
- #732
Yeah. I’m working through my arsenal. So far it laughs at all the chemicals but yields to elbow grease
- Thread starter
- #733
I’m not able to get all the way to the OEM single stage but the CLR and OO steel wool are able to get it smooth to take polish and wax. I’ve got the tub all done.
@wngrog : Question for you. If I use rust converter and then use one of your oiling versions, with this affect the ability to media blast, weld, and then prime and paint the tub in the future? I have too much rust in spots to be called patina, but I do want to stop any progression until I can commit to taking the body off and reparing correctly. Any thoughts or insights you have would be greatly appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #735
Rust converter won’t. Fluid Film is oil so it will need to be removed but that body will have to be fully sanded.
oh yeah... I was more concerned with stopping any more cancer until I fully blasted the body. Thanks for the info... I didn't want to make the refinishing harder in the near future when I was planning on taking the tub off.
- Thread starter
- #737
Don’t forget under the hood
This might be a good candidate for a preservation:
forum.ih8mud.com
SOLD - Las Vegas 1977 Toyota FJ40
Up for sale is a 1977 FJ40. The truck is solid but does need some work. It is a great canidate for a project or restoration.This FJ is an original configuration. The rear pinon gear is missing but I have the drive shaft. The truck turns over but does not stay running. The pictures show some rust...
forum.ih8mud.com
Mtntopper
SILVER Star
Is that the black fluid film, or just the regular stuff please?
- Thread starter
- #740
Regular. I’ve not tried the black. I don’t want colored overspray
