Preemptively replace parts from a 300k mile truck

[mustardfj40]

I finally got my truck back, I bought it new in 1998 (when there were new FJZ80s on Toyota dealer lot), now it has 389,000 miles, I love it because of the memories I had it with my family and parents traveling back then, the plan is to make it into a reliable truck that I can take it Alaska next year and maybe all down the way central and south America.
I'm planning to replace the original still working starter and alternator, what else should I replace? Currently I'm doing the timing belt, replacing bad the brake/ABS/booster, replacing the leaky radiator, replacing the steering rack (all new Toyota parts)
Thanks guys!

 

[Dirt J]

Think you got it all covered except for front axle work (CV axles, flange hubs, and bearings).

 

[GTV]

Sounds like you know this rig better than anyone here possibly could.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Also, bushings...Front diff bushings (3X) front control arm bushings, ball joints. Bring a spare fuel pump. Tire puncture repair kit. Some form of on-board air.
A couple spare ignition coils and plugs. Oh, and a spare front and rear u-joint.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

Door seals, and window runs?
Keep it nice and quiet on the road to Alaska?

 

[shane431]

Fuel pump?

 

[Trapper50cal]

Fuel pump?

For big trips in AK and SA? Yeah, I'd carry a spare just so that wasn't the hold up. Truck's got 389K on it, either way, I'd at least have a delphi on hand.
Or were you suggesting it as well?

 

[Live to Ski]

following with interest....

 

[shane431]

For big trips in AK and SA? Yeah, I'd carry a spare just so that wasn't the hold up. Truck's got 389K on it, either way, I'd at least have a delphi on hand.
Or were you suggesting it as well?

I was replaying to the OP. I didn’t see you suggested fuel pump also! Great minds!!!

 

[rexington14]

Original owner of a '98. you are a legend

 

[excessive]

amazing original owner! I would replace every rubber hose in the engine bay. Coolant hoses to the throttle body, check the coolant hoses going to the rear heater, heater T's obviously. take all the tensioners and idler pulleys and check their bearings, etc

 

[mustardfj40]

Thanks guys, I put the fuel pump fuel pump on the list. I actually has the CV axle rebuild kits from Toyota and will reboot them. I have maintained, oil changed with Mobile 1 from day 1 and done the timing belt twice myself until ~250,000 miles and according to her it was maintained by some professional mechanics. Oh, I will do the T-connectors too. And if you guys don't mind I will document everything here ...
Here it is:

 

[mustardfj40]

She said the truck was maintained by professional mechanics ... I believe her:

 

[delz05]

If it's written on the tools... it must be true!!!

 

[omarsky1980]

As someone currently base lining a new -to-me 2007 with 246k I'm following this thread with great interest.

 

[mustardfj40]

Ok, when I opened the rear tailgate, I was surprised that there was nothing holding the tailgate from crashing into rear bumper, turned out that the tailgate support/holding cables have broken, kind of surpised me because this is a Califrornia truck. It’s an inexpensive fix

 

[mustardfj40]

Found the coolant leaks, this Maddox radiator tool is helpful and inexpensive

 

[excessive]

great work so far. at least you have no rust to deal with

 

[shane431]

Anyone mention fuel filter yet?

 

[2001LC]

When doing T-belt. I, do a 1282B skim coat into pits, in the block, under the water pump gasket.


I replace both T-belt bearings/pulleys. I make sure to seal (I use Toyota 103 oil FIPG) thread of tensioner pulley bolt.
I use a torque wrench on ever bolt and mark with paint after.

I almost always replace the fan bracket. FSM states: Any oil passes seal, remove & replace (R&R).

If fan belt tensioner bearing or tension weak, R&R tensioner ASSY.
If fan belt idler pulley bearing weak, R&R.


I drain coolant from block, both sides. So very good time to R&R thermostat and heater T's if old.

Wheel bearings & knuckle service.
Over 250K miles axle needle bearing and (brass bushing if worn) should be replace. As should most wheel bearings. Which I also replace knuckle and wheel hub seals and gasket, lock washers, snap ring and grease caps at minimum.

Ball joints need inspecting, any play R&R. If not replacing ball joints, because not needed. I re-boot them 9 out of 10 times these days. Which buys additional years of use.
Ball joint lower inspection (BAD) Land Cruiser - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-PFJ4npJi4

See my master link below. Click on Emerald a 350K plus mile 00LX, for more PM's. Also look close at "Alerts"