Power Window Switch – fresh out of ideas (1 Viewer)

[haze1964]

Realize there are many posts on this topic. Read many of them and have followed the advice given, but a little stumped. Problem started a few weeks back. I could lower the front driver-side window, but was suddenly unable to raise it. Prior to that, all windows and locks operated properly from the front driver power window switch. Have tried the following to resolve:

1. Ordered a new main power window switch from Switch Doctor. Does not operate any of the windows, but locks work.
2. Ordered new Dorman unit. Front Driver works intermittently, passenger front works fine as do the locks. Will not operate rear
3. Put original switch back in. Can’t raise driver front, passenger front and locks ok. Now the rear windows will not work.
4. Wasn’t blown, but installed a new 30A power window fuse
5. Installed a brand new power window relay
6. EFI relay was replaced a few months ago.

All of the other door switches operate their window properly. I’m out of ideas and would appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks - David

 

[cme4lyt]

FYI, I tried a new main power window switch from Switch Doctor and no joy. I ended up getting a used unit from a vehicle in a wrecker yard and that worked. I still had other issues to deal with but basically the Switch Doctor unit was DOA.

 

[BILT4ME]

Remove the kick panel by the driver's foot (LF) and fish out the harness plugs in the A pillar. Unplug them and replug them about 5 times, then put in some dielectric grease, and plug them back together and use a zip tie to secure the two halves together. Do this with each and every plug in that pillar.

I found that with the plugs in that pillar, they had vibrated loose over time and then had a little corrosion from the sunroof leaks. After I did this, all my windows and door locks worked again.

 

[benjrblant]

I have successfully disassembled the Toyota switches and cleaned them. 20 or so years of gunk and buildup added a lot of resistance and made for a poor connection.

 

[haze1964]

Thanks for the suggestions. Bilt4me, I'll try that this weekend and will report back.

 

[dcguillory]

I just went through this. You need a new window regulator or motor or whatever its called. I was a little frustrated as well.

 

[haze1964]

Have updates on my progress.

1. Followed Bilt4ME's advice and unplugged/plugged/greased/zip-tied each of the harness plugs in the a-pillar. No luck.
   
2. I ordered a new motor and regulator for the front driver-side window a few years ago, but never got around to installing. So, took dcguillory's advice and installed them. Still no go.
   
3. As mentioned above, I had tried 2 new power window master switches (one Switch Dr, the other Dorman) with no success. Decided to take cme4yt's advice and ordered a used one - came off a 94 Camry. Fixed the driver side issue. Now both front windows operate from the master switch.

Only issue remaining is neither of the rear windows will operate from the master switch, but each back window will operate from it's own switch. I have tried with and without the window lock depressed on the master switch. Any ideas on what might be preventing them from working? As always, I appreciate the help.

 

[dcguillory]

Ok I figured it out. Pull off the door and put a new one on. That should do it. You're welcome.

 

[shocktower]

Remove the kick panel by the driver's foot (LF) and fish out the harness plugs in the A pillar. Unplug them and replug them about 5 times, then put in some dielectric grease, and plug them back together and use a zip tie to secure the two halves together. Do this with each and every plug in that pillar.

I found that with the plugs in that pillar, they had vibrated loose over time and then had a little corrosion from the sunroof leaks. After I did this, all my windows and door locks worked again.

I would suggest Deox it's for cleaning corroded electrical switches/plugs , and dielectric grease is a seal and non conductive

 

[BILT4ME]

I would suggest Deox it's for cleaning corroded electrical switches/plugs , and dielectric grease is a seal and non conductive

I'm not familiar with Deox.

The dielectric grease to seal in the pillar because when the sunroof doesn't seal properly (none of them do) then water runs down inside the A pillars, over the wiring harnesses. Causing corrosion. Plus, with the factory alarm on there, you have twice as much wiring in that hole than it was designed for, so everything gets tweaked.

 

[96Cruiser]

wow, that's bad news about switch dr.......I had drivers door window issues after 14+ years ....removed switch / cleaned / polished / sacrificed a chicken etc but no joy, so tried to trust an ebay seller on a "tested good" we guaranty all out items factory switch, sadly it was worse than my factory switch,and they wouldn't respond to nor did I have time then to eff with them.
some day maybe I can salvage the two into a good one[ I modded for auto up and miss it].....so I ordered a switch dr replacement and it has been fine since EXCEPT its circuitry is completely different and I have never bothered to try and mod it for auto up, AND my factory rs3000 quit working and all attempts to trouble shoot lead me to think its the different circuitry in the switch because now it faintly flashes the lights but the doors refuse to lock [ im thinking something to do with the completely different circuitry of the aftermarket switch]

 

[shocktower]

I'm not familiar with Deox.

The dielectric grease to seal in the pillar because when the sunroof doesn't seal properly (none of them do) then water runs down inside the A pillars, over the wiring harnesses. Causing corrosion. Plus, with the factory alarm on there, you have twice as much wiring in that hole than it was designed for, so everything gets tweaked.

I'm not familiar with Deox.

The dielectric grease to seal in the pillar because when the sunroof doesn't seal properly (none of them do) then water runs down inside the A pillars, over the wiring harnesses. Causing corrosion. Plus, with the factory alarm on there, you have twice as much wiring in that hole than it was designed for, so everything gets tweaked.

GTS Deoxit is a corrosion electronic cleaning lubricating stuff, and sold on Amazon

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Hold The switch for whichever window isn't working, open and slowly move the driver door. I have had 3 broken door harnesses I have addressed 2. Passenger rear does exactly this issue. I've narrowed it down to a combination of both the driver door harness and the passenger rear harness combined. So move the doors while the switch is being operated and see if anything happens.