Build Powda Blue 74 Build - Tilda Bogue Service Station

[wngrog]

I got sidetracked this afternoon grabbing a pallet of goodies and dropping off more steel for powder

One thing I mentioned earlier is that I was going to be following my normal formula with this one plus some things new to me.

One major thing I’ve never done is use a JT Outfitters disc brake kit.

I’ve always poo-poo’ed these kits but this truck came with a brand new in box kit so I figured I’d give them a whirl.

So far it’s a pretty slick setup. If you were a lunatic and/or had recently rebuilt your front knuckles you could technically install these without breaking into the hub…..in fact the directions tell you to do just that. Of course that would be insane and mine was a leaking mess BUT it’s possible. Just saying.

The only PITA is turning the OD of the hub down to fit in the brake disc. The bench grinder made clean work of it but it took some time.

One side mostly done. I’ll knock out the other side much quicker now that I know what’s what.

 

[tlaporte]

Fresh clean springs, bushings, shackles and pins with 4Plus flip kits and new 4* shims

View attachment 2836488

Out of curiosity, did you separate the spring pack while cleaning and repainting? Or did you attack it as a whole?

 

[wngrog]

Out of curiosity, did you separate the spring pack while cleaning and repainting? Or did you attack it as a whole?

This set did not need to be separated. All the pads were there giving me room to blast them between the gaps.

When I redid my stock pack on Patina they all came apart

 

[wngrog]

Was missing one of these smaller inner washers and all I have around here is the larger ones. I decided to use two star washers tacked together and unbent. Sidetrack.

Also I had to clearance the Monte Carlo calipers on both sides for optimal placement of the banjo bolts and lines

The pads in the kit are super cheap. I think they are fine but I would not want them on a high mile/heavy truck

I mentioned clearancing the hub yesterday. Here is where

Bilsteins in place.

 

[wngrog]

It’s a great feeling to finish an end of one if these things

 

[NYIronPig]

Damn, loving this one Nolen!

 

[Catching Neutral]

Those wheels are awesome..I really love the non OEM things that look like they belong.

 

[wngrog]

Those wheels are awesome..I really love the non OEM things that look like they belong.

I’m a big fan of narrow tires and wheels unless they have fender flares and then they need a little width to fill in those things.

 

[jbee]

Maybe I should have just not looked under here.


View attachment 2827517
Holy s***.

An F1.5 is a great motor but it does not work very well with an F head without an oil galley. The oiler was just dangling in here. View attachment 2827515

PSA……if it does not have an oil galley plug it’s a F head. I did not put 2+2 together until I popped that last piece off to take to powder.

View attachment 2827516

This is why you don’t let non Land Cruiser people build Land Cruiser motors

I have a newly machined F1.5 head, will it both up to an f motor? Backwards compatible?

 

[85roktoy]

Stunning as usual…

 

[wngrog]

I have a newly machined F1.5 head, will it both up to an f motor? Backwards compatible?

Assuming the lower end is ok (it ran great) a F1.5 head would fix this motor right up.

Want a motor or want sell a head?

 

[wngrog]

Took a break from hard stuff this morning to bolt some shiny stuff on Powda

The owners daughter is at SMU so the Texas tag will ride on the front. I need to dig up a vintage 74 Texas tag

 

[Living in the Past]

Maybe I should have just not looked under here.


View attachment 2827517
Holy s***.

An F1.5 is a great motor but it does not work very well with an F head without an oil galley. The oiler was just dangling in here. View attachment 2827515

PSA……if it does not have an oil galley plug it’s a F head. I did not put 2+2 together until I popped that last piece off to take to powder.

View attachment 2827516

This is why you don’t let non Land Cruiser people build Land Cruiser motors

Interesting the 74 model had the improved oiling system. Rocker was fed oil internally thru one of mounts. The copper tube feeding the rocker was gone. Block is 74+. Either the rocker is earlier or the whole head is. Did I miss how you resolved this?

 

[wngrog]

Interesting the 74 model had the improved oiling system. Rocker was fed oil internally thru one of mounts. The copper tube feeding the rocker was gone. Block is 74+. Either the rocker is earlier or the whole head is. Did I miss how you resolved this?

I’ll have to see what the clowns did or someone that wants it will. If it has the proper 1.5 oil pump then all it needs is the proper head. Oil pan will have to come out to see. It was clearly built by a clown.

Solution? Rebuilt 2F and I’ll either sell this motor with all the accessories or buy a 1.5 head and fix it for a later project. I’d rather do the former.

 

[wngrog]

Now to attack the back 1/2


I get as much as I can off with the truck with a scraper and air hose then I’ll blast it with water. I don’t have a drain in my shop so cleaning it dry makes for less water to sweep out the door

 

[Living in the Past]

I’ll have to see what the clowns did or someone that wants it will. If it has the proper 1.5 oil pump then all it needs is the proper head. Oil pan will have to come out to see. It was clearly built by a clown.

Solution? Rebuilt 2F and I’ll either sell this motor with all the accessories or buy a 1.5 head and fix it for a later project. I’d rather do the former.

The oil galleries changed with the 74 model. Part of that was oil filter moved to the right side and the oil filter housing bolted directly to the block. I show the correct head would be 11101-60091 with a sub being 1101-60092.

 

[wngrog]

These guys had a metal line coming off the block on the drivers side snaking up through the header and into the top of the valve cover and attaching to the oiler. As you can see from those photos it was broken and oil was just quirting on the rocker at the 50 yard line and heading south. No idea how long it was like that but I suspect a long time due to the amount of sludge and such in the front.

Either way it’s out and no longer part of this project.

Time to wash

 

[wngrog]

Washed. Scrubbed. That took a while. It’s got to dry for a while before I can paint under there.


Now that’s drying so I turned to the rear axle and got the disc brakes installed.

 

[jbee]

Great work.
Are you ready to hand down a verdict on that disc brake swap kit yet?

 

[wngrog]

Great work.
Are you ready to hand down a verdict on that disc brake swap kit yet?

Well I’ve not driven it yet but as for install, it’s likely earlier to do than a late 40/60/mini swap. The components are good. The front pads were pretty low rent (kit was purchased in 2013) The pads in the rear were much nicer. I purchased that kit this year.

I normally use TSM rear kits. I like the brake lines they sell with it. Other than that they are not much different.

For a Cruiser that will be locked in 4 Low a lot and beat on off road I would 100% say go with the bigger knuckles/birfields with a front swap and go all Toyota /Aisin

That said, that stuff is getting harder to find and obviously not as cheap as it once was.