Based on 10 cases in GXOR on FB I would say you have a larger population. The GX470 with the 2UZ has the same brake failures (and some components from the 100s with ATRAC) so your population of samples may have increased!
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (5 Viewers)
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My guess would be the gross weight of the vehicles. Still shouldn't be happening in these numbers unexpectedly
CloudCity
LuxCruisers
I picked up some dielectric grease but the bolt heads under the caps are a bit hard to reach with the hard lines. Can somebody confirm if I pop the rubber caps, and use a finger to smear the grease around on the bolts and the cap, is there enough room to snap them back into place with the assembly fitted, or would I really have needed to do this before the new assembly was put on the vehicle?
The cover on the ABS end is no problem. I'm yet to get the one back in the booster pump back on 100%. I finally gave up since I'm going to be taking it all apart to change the wires soon anyway.
yeah, the ABS is underneath and hard to get to. Think small hand thoughts and you might be able to.
I'd recommend you change the wire and remove and inspect the booster motor. @2001LC has been doing a lot of research on the subject and there definitely appears to be a correlation between corroded wires and brake booster failures.
I'm in the same boat as you and plan to tear down, inspect motor and replace the wire this fall. I sorted out my parking/emergency brake last weekend.
I'm in the same boat as you and plan to tear down, inspect motor and replace the wire this fall. I sorted out my parking/emergency brake last weekend.
Re-posting here, from other thread you posted in.
forum.ih8mud.com
I would pull master and replace that wire assembly, screws & nuts. Be very careful drilling out the screws. Just take your time and start with small drill bit and work your way up. Just removing head of screws.
If you could please test resistance before removing, just wire after and then again after new installed and report it mud. I also am going to start checking resistance from wire block on top side of ABS to motor. Please PM if you don't see give you " like" or posted when/if you do.
Pay special attention to routing of wires i.e positive to positive and negative to negative. By taking pictures or note as to which color goes where at each end. The new OEM wires boots have a color mark. IIRC it's a white mark on one boot and that boot goes on motor. But you need to verify before removing. These may help you orient..
“Total” brake failure yesterday... accumulator pump motor CONFIRMED
I experienced a “total” break failure in my ‘00 Cruiser yesterday. I’ve had the truck since January. During the first couple of weeks of ownership, I got the ABS/TRAC/Brake lights on the dash with the alarm... always on a cold morning first start. It would typically go away after 30 to 40...
forum.ih8mud.com
I would pull master and replace that wire assembly, screws & nuts. Be very careful drilling out the screws. Just take your time and start with small drill bit and work your way up. Just removing head of screws.
If you could please test resistance before removing, just wire after and then again after new installed and report it mud. I also am going to start checking resistance from wire block on top side of ABS to motor. Please PM if you don't see give you " like" or posted when/if you do.
Pay special attention to routing of wires i.e positive to positive and negative to negative. By taking pictures or note as to which color goes where at each end. The new OEM wires boots have a color mark. IIRC it's a white mark on one boot and that boot goes on motor. But you need to verify before removing. These may help you orient..
No ,2006 with 112k miles
Well..... (backstory, earlier in this thread) Last June, 18 months ago, I had the dreaded brake failure alarm. Ended up buying a used master cylinder/booster pump off EBay. The pump motor was a little noisy, but not too bad. Fast forward to Monday night, I get the lights and alarm again. 
Thank goodness for AAA. I get the truck home and start the search for a new booster pump. I check EBay and didn’t see anything that appealed to me so I checked Car-Part.com and checked locally. Got a few hits, most in the $400-$800 but a couple had “call for price” so I got on the phone. First one I call, I get a quote of $35 if I pull it, $50 if they pull it. I told them I was on my way! I get there and pay $50 for them to pull it. The owner of the salvage yard goes out and gets a worker to go pull the “brake booster” off of a 2001 4Runner. (Booster pump and accumulator are interchangeable for my 98). When he comes up, lugging the complete assembly, the owner said that he was going to honor the deal as it was his mistake, but that was a $400 part. I offered to let him keep the ABS assembly and reservoir if he wanted it. He said no. I rush home and pull the booster pump/accumulator off the 4Runner MC. My neighbor came over and we proceed to pull the MC from my truck and swap the pumps. We reinstalled it and I started the truck up and didn’t hear the pump, my heart sunk. My buddy grabbed the accumulator and commented that it’s working. That pump motor is all but silent, I’ve always heard the pump a little, this is nice though!
Moral of the story, check Car-Part.com and cross check part numbers, you may get lucky.
Thank goodness for AAA. I get the truck home and start the search for a new booster pump. I check EBay and didn’t see anything that appealed to me so I checked Car-Part.com and checked locally. Got a few hits, most in the $400-$800 but a couple had “call for price” so I got on the phone. First one I call, I get a quote of $35 if I pull it, $50 if they pull it. I told them I was on my way! I get there and pay $50 for them to pull it. The owner of the salvage yard goes out and gets a worker to go pull the “brake booster” off of a 2001 4Runner. (Booster pump and accumulator are interchangeable for my 98). When he comes up, lugging the complete assembly, the owner said that he was going to honor the deal as it was his mistake, but that was a $400 part. I offered to let him keep the ABS assembly and reservoir if he wanted it. He said no. I rush home and pull the booster pump/accumulator off the 4Runner MC. My neighbor came over and we proceed to pull the MC from my truck and swap the pumps. We reinstalled it and I started the truck up and didn’t hear the pump, my heart sunk. My buddy grabbed the accumulator and commented that it’s working. That pump motor is all but silent, I’ve always heard the pump a little, this is nice though!Moral of the story, check Car-Part.com and cross check part numbers, you may get lucky.
I was on my way to work this morning and had the dash lights and alarm go off in my 2000 LC with 205k on it. I was not far from home and was able to get back to my driveway and get it stopped with no issues. Now deciding which parts to buy to fix it and who to fix it. It’s been a rough two weeks for my LC first the power steering pump started to whine and then the alternator goes out and now this.
Opened up the old motor. Any commentary on the internals?
Brushes are down to nothing. The commutator seems to be in pretty good shape. The interior is greasy but doesn’t seem to be brake fluid more like a heavy grease.
On page #26 you'll see one I torn down that is similar to yours. Motor should be relatively if not completely dry inside. Wet is sign of leak. The only grease is sealed in the bearings and not much at all.
Brake fluid damages rubber, except the special rubber used in brake system parts that touches fluid. Like cap seal, piston and master O-rings, etc. I see your green rubber from winding fell apart into case. This rubber is not made to get wet from brake fluid on it, as no brake fluid should be in this dry area (motor). Along with the oily appearance, really makes me think brake fluid. The air hole is small and part that gets plugged is more in the pump, which passes through to the motor from bottom of pump.
Can your clean up a bit and take pictures of brushes and commutator and post?
I don't recall, how was your wire and is this the original motor from factory that you pulled from your vehicle first time?
Brake fluid damages rubber, except the special rubber used in brake system parts that touches fluid. Like cap seal, piston and master O-rings, etc. I see your green rubber from winding fell apart into case. This rubber is not made to get wet from brake fluid on it, as no brake fluid should be in this dry area (motor). Along with the oily appearance, really makes me think brake fluid. The air hole is small and part that gets plugged is more in the pump, which passes through to the motor from bottom of pump.
Can your clean up a bit and take pictures of brushes and commutator and post?
I don't recall, how was your wire and is this the original motor from factory that you pulled from your vehicle first time?
The brushes appear to be are all but gone. You’re the resident expert, so tell me what you think...
The brush look at end of life. Some of thinnest I've seen.
Commutator pictures is not clear. But if cooper looks like that all the way around, with no dark spots, it's good. It appears not very worn down.
I'll ask again for clarity:
Was this the original factory in your 100 series?
What condition was your brake control wire in?
Commutator pictures is not clear. But if cooper looks like that all the way around, with no dark spots, it's good. It appears not very worn down.
I'll ask again for clarity:
Was this the original factory in your 100 series?
What condition was your brake control wire in?
