I replaced the ABS / booster as a complete assembly 16 months ago and sent my original back as a core. So, this one had a previous life somewhere else. The wiring connector screws were nice and shiny but very tight.
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High pitch whine/squeal. Not extremely loud but the pitch is such that you should hear it. If you monitor your gauges every few seconds like you should, the lights will get your attention and then the whine will confirm that there’s an issue. Once you get the alarm, you need to get off the road as braking will become an issue very quickly.Yes, the dash lights [ABS & brake + everything else] do work (or at least aren't burnt out — they come on momentarily with everything else when starting the vehicle).
So hopefully it wasn't anything to do with the brake system. I'll post this elsewhere to see if someone knows why I had such a loud sound in the vehicle.
Just curious though — what does the ABS warning buzzer actually sound like? How loud is it and what type of sound does it make?
Thanks for the response
High pitch whine/squeal. Not extremely loud but the pitch is such that you should hear it. If you monitor your gauges every few seconds like you should, the lights will get your attention and then the whine will confirm that there’s an issue. Once you get the alarm, you need to get off the road as braking will become an issue very quickly.
The only time I've seen rubber insulator falling apart is in a wet motor. Brake fluid would do that. It's vent was clogged. Water would not. No other fluid in area.@2001LC, the vent hole wasn’t blocked up. Not saying there wasn’t some crud in the hole, but I could see through it. The picture was more an issue of camera angle. Not sure where the excess fluid was seeping in at. The armature was pretty well sealed to the top cap. I had to take a brass punch and tap the coupling ears to break it loose and separate it. I’m hopeful that I can take the motor to a local motor repair shop and see if they can refresh it for me. Would love to have a rebuilt one, just in case....
I did one, that is, if it is you ABS (box box) unit on side of MASTER. It had a corroded brake control wire. I'd be very interested to know if your wire corroded. Dealer quoted $5,500 to my client. I think we got it done for $500.I just found out that my SA1 Circuit needs to be replaced. Seems like it's a costly repair at around $3000. So far my brakes work but you can tell something is wrong. I hope this is a job I can DIY since this is more or less a project truck.
Just had a curious wheel speed sensor code pop up. History is that I’ve had brake failure twice. The first was the original brake pump from my 98 with 160miles. Swapped out the master for a junk yard LX. That pump only lasted 8 months, so I now replaced all brake lines, junctions and put a new pump on. Seems to be working very well now.
Issue is that before each failure, when pulling codes I got wheel speed sensor codes for front left and rear right wheels. After I change out the master cylinder parts though the speed sensor codes go away. I have the speed sensors now but am wondering if this is a real code or one that could just be saved in the system from a while ago or perhaps is somehow linked to a failing brake system. Any thoughts?
Had the same thing happen repeatedly after changing the MC parts. The anti-lock brakes would even kick in when braking normally.
Had to change the front speed sensors. After checking with another forum member, I swapped out for cheaper Chinese/eBay (link and link2 - prices have jumped 10 -15 bucks!) sensors rather than OEM$ and everything has been great.
Friend showed me how to remove (drill out) the sensors and replace them from the rear without taking off the brakes. Saved me 4hrs!
Clear it, see if it comes back.