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ewillis
SILVER Star
No need for bypass...break the hard line. Easier in the end.
Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?
Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?
You'll know if the PO did it. The Toyota hose clamps are different than the worm drive clamps.
Bypass.
Edit: Do not drink and post on mud. Do not drink and post on mud.
Bypass.
Edit: Do not drink and post on mud. Do not drink and post on mud.
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Just do the shorty. The OEM design is fine. Change it in 20 years when it starts to bulge again.
I was going to go the bypass route but after some reading and humility, decided Mr. T probably really knew what he was doing with the hard line. You have to break off the hard line either way unless you wanna curse and throw tools all weekend trying to maneuver the little s&$t on to the block and hard line. Breaking the hard line off makes putting the new section of hose on way easier. Make sure to get the tranny dipstick out of the way. Makes it much easier...I learned the hard way after trying to get around it for 2 hours and my arms aren that small. Real easy to remove, just two bolts. Good luck!
As mentioned, disconnect the trans dipstick to gain some room. You'll also need to unbolt the hard line at the upper and lower mounting points. I used a short flat head screw driver to turn the factory clamp on the block side of the hose until I could reach in with needle nose pliers to move it outward. Then removed the whole assembly. The lower hard line bolt was more difficult to remove than the hose.
I used the shorty and I didn't bust off the top mount. i used silicone hose and worm drive clamps. That's not supposed to be ideal but it lasted 10 years and was going strong with no issues when I changed it again during my head gasket change out.
I took a perfectly good pipe and broke the crap out of it and re routed a hose all the way around my brake booster. Gates Green Stripe, no other protection or anything. 20k miles, 2 years since head gasket, zero problems. I used a spring loaded constant torque clamp on the hose at the head, I have absolutely no regrets doing this modification. I changed the PHH before I did the head gasket, and resintalled my modification when reassembling the head. The only thing I changed, I removed the broken tab and the now extra bolt when I had the intake manifold off.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Just helped a friend with a head gasket repair. His hardline was real solid so we reused the whole thing. But we only used topmounting bolt. 2 bolts to hold that little tube is WAY overkill.
I did the long run around the brake booster, with green stripe hose (muck thicker) and constant tension clamps. My logic was this:
1.The hose has much more "room" to expand and can do so gradually over the greater length
2. If it bursts I can easily shorten existing hose, run inboard of MC until replaced
3. I carry an extra length that will run from the PHH to the pipe above thermostat, bypassing all non-essential items
This way no matter where I am, no matter how far out, and no matter where or what hose fails, or heater valve, or heater core. I can quickly and easily replace and repair on the trail, and not have to be stuck, or work for hours on a trail. I can repair / shorten a hose in <10 minuites, or replace the whole loop in the same
1.The hose has much more "room" to expand and can do so gradually over the greater length
2. If it bursts I can easily shorten existing hose, run inboard of MC until replaced
3. I carry an extra length that will run from the PHH to the pipe above thermostat, bypassing all non-essential items
This way no matter where I am, no matter how far out, and no matter where or what hose fails, or heater valve, or heater core. I can quickly and easily replace and repair on the trail, and not have to be stuck, or work for hours on a trail. I can repair / shorten a hose in <10 minuites, or replace the whole loop in the same
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It isn't how long it is; it is how hard it is.
Use the metal tube after breaking off the lower tab to make it easy. It is the same amount of work and the long hose puts more strain on the heater valve, increasing the chances of it failing.
Use the metal tube after breaking off the lower tab to make it easy. It is the same amount of work and the long hose puts more strain on the heater valve, increasing the chances of it failing.
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Squash
SILVER Star
Long bypass and installed a convection block heater for those cold nights.
Never again will the PHH rear it's ugly head...pm'd
If you look at a HDT-1 engine you will see a simplified version of a long bypass.
Never again will the PHH rear it's ugly head...pm'd
If you look at a HDT-1 engine you will see a simplified version of a long bypass.
This is correct, and I forgot to mention, so thank you. The green stripe is thick stuff and has some weight to it when the water is present. I simply zip-tied mine to the steel lines that are on the firewall directly behind the hose when routed as I described (can't recall what lines right now). This takes all the weight and play off the control valve, which as stated, would fail from the constant flexing. The steel lines, along with the way the hose lays on the booster removes this from the equation and is VERY solid.
i have had a puddle of water behind the front left wheel for a little while now, got myself a phh replacement and had everything ready to hook into it today, just out of interest I grabbed a special pump to pressurise the cooling system and nothing is leaking out of it. Also noticed the hose clamps are not original. So I rekon the PO has done it for me.
Worked out it's the lpg heat converter that's leaking the coolant.
So, if you're not sure if your phh. Needs replacement, get someone to pressurise your system for you and you'll soon find the leak.
Worked out it's the lpg heat converter that's leaking the coolant.
So, if you're not sure if your phh. Needs replacement, get someone to pressurise your system for you and you'll soon find the leak.
bloc
SILVER Star
After a nuclear bomb goes off roaches and gates green stripe hose will be the only things left.
LOL
i replaced all pipes including PHH when i got my truck with this
HPS Blue Silicone Radiator+Heater Hose Kit For Toyota 92-98 Land Cruiser | eBay
is it good????
lumbee1
Native American
I did my PHH a week ago. I used Gates Green stripe and reused the pipe. I also removed the pipe, cut off the bottom mount, wire wheeled the rust off, and painted it matte black. When reinstalling the pipe and hoses, use a tiny bit of vaseline to make life easier and use breeze clamps.
My PHH had not failed but the hose was very soft and crumbly. I could tear it with my hands.
My PHH had not failed but the hose was very soft and crumbly. I could tear it with my hands.
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
I got the bypass from Joey, wits end. but then my OCD wouldnt allow me to not break the bottom bracket remove the pipe and install PHH done and done, with dual batteries supercharger etc and 6in lift its not easy but its done, replace PHH JMO
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Depends who you ask. I would never use silicone hose. Others will swear by it.
