Builds Pete the Old Prospector (2 Viewers)

[majdomo]

And done.

Got it out up and down the street and a couple exits on the freeway, shifts tight and clean, a little shorter throw on 2/3 than previous. Clutch engages great, no more shudder taking off in first. Transfer seems quieter too. It's parked on a hill, and the parking brake seems to work fine.

Finished the u-joints this afternoon, put a couple gallons in to get it to the gas station and then filled it halfway. Don't want to overcommit

Next project is to just finish the rear weatherstrip and then enjoy for a little while. I'll want to do upholstery too, but that can wait until sometime in January. Maybe.

 

[majdomo]

More boring pics from the parking garage. No issues or problems on the 20 mi drive in. Figured on low traffic, since it's a holiday for most.

 

[majdomo]

Burger.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Need to find a repro sticker for mine on the hubs.

 

[mtn biker]

Need to find a repro sticker for mine on the hubs.

@Toyota4Low toyota4low. com has them

Warn Locking Hubs Instructions

Warn Locking Hubs Instructions the Toyota Landcruiser. Usually goes on the dash next to the steering wheel. Printed on Vinyl and laminated for protection.

search.app

 

[RevISK]

Burger.

View attachment 3773334

they hit better in SoCal

 

[majdomo]

they hit better in SoCal

Yeah, I made the mistake of not putting gas in the truck before getting in line, ended up behind 3 people on lunch runs for the entire office Fortunately was fine but filled up before heading back up the hill.

 

[majdomo]

Solved a minor mystery this afternoon. Had a "metal thing rolling around and clinking" noise coming from the passenger side every time I went around a corner. Finally got sick of hearing it, and decided to get to the bottom of this once and for all...

lol. It was stuck in the rail just above the passenger door.

Replaced the windshield wiper blades, $22 each from the dealer for OEM. Also have a very minor leak coming from my oil drain plug, so waiting on the proper fiber washer to arrive, will dump the oil and put it back probably on Friday. Oil pan finally swelled up and sealed, now just have the familiar oil weep.

Been enjoying the rig though, drove it to work a couple times over the last few weeks. I want to do the rear hatch weatherstrip, but also don't want to take it off the road for a week while I pull the rear hatch, been having too much fun.

Went to look at a 1997 FZJ80 CE, this time in white, but no lockers and needed a TON of baselining (normal) that, when thinking about it, made me feel kind of blah. Decided to pass, in a good spot for now I think. Plus my son wants me to keep the 62, which is a known quantity at this point.

Happy Thanksgiving Mud!

 

[majdomo]

Game day.

 

[majdomo]

Wow haven't posted much in a while.. not much to report though. Between wind, fires, and life in general it's been kind of a busy last 2 months or so.

Replaced the oil pan and oil pan gasket with a good used one from Mark, plus a nice aftermarket gasket that has a lot more squish than the OEM gasket. That, plus a fair amount of gray RTV has taken care of the pan gasket leak.

Also just finished up a whole bunch of fuel pump drama. The one that came on the rig was the original 1968 pump, which hadn't been rebuilt and was leaking oil from the wrist pin. I had the 1972 one handy, so put it back in with a new gasket and THAT one leaked both oil from the wrist pin and gas from the weep holes. Bought a new pump from Mark and put that in today, so that's all fine now and working great.

I went to look at another 80 yesterday, this time a locked 1997 40th, at a good price. Photos on CL were great and the seller was a good dude, but it needed a bunch of baselining work that I was bummed just thinking about having to do. It was also a bit of a ten-footer, which I think limits resale if you wanted to move on down the road. Passed but I'm sure it'll sell this weekend. Plus it was weird being behind the wheel of an 80 again, like it was too nice or something.

 

[majdomo]

Drove it to work this morning.

That's all.

 

[majdomo]

Not much to report. Seems like I'm getting a sticky throttle cable, it sort of stays at about 1k rpm between gears. I caught it sticking at the carb when I pulled into the garage over the weekend, there is some fraying on the cable right around the little nub at the carb end. I cut those off so hoping that helps, if not I'll get a new cable and see if that helps.

Seriously, it's been dead nuts reliable and drama-free since about November, with just the fuel pump being the only real item since then. I've driven it to work and back a bunch and it's my ride of choice around town for errands and so on. I might get the seat covers soon, or not. Really want to get it out camping over the summer.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Get a cable luber and some cable lube spray

https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Universal-Lubricator-Motorcycle/dp/B07L1BG3RD

B'laster® Long-Lasting Chain & Cable Lubricant - 11 oz.

B'laster® Chain and Cable Lubricant is a long-lasting formula designed specifically for use on any light-duty chain or wire cable applications. Formulated with a proprietary blend of lubricants to help reduce friction and wear. It prevents further rust and corrosion and sheds contaminants like...

www.menards.com

 

[majdomo]

Good point. I have some Tri-flow for my mtb, wonder if that would work?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Not sure but with a pee tube you can blast the inside of the housing clean and wash out all the trash using can pressure. A pre-treat on an old ebrake cable with WD-40 and soak for a day or too does wonders on freeing up rust.

A lot of cable don't come with lube inside these days - that way they can sell you a new cable assembly sooner. I bought a spool of stainless steel cable and have made new internals to repair frayed/broken/stretched one.

 

[majdomo]

Not sure but with a pee tube you can blast the inside of the housing clean and wash out all the trash using can pressure. A pre-treat on an old ebrake cable with WD-40 and soak for a day or too does wonders on freeing up rust.

A lot of cable don't come with lube inside these days - that way they can sell you a new cable assembly sooner. I bought a spool of stainless steel cable and have made new internals to repair frayed/broken/stretched one.

Just to close this one out - it was the throttle cable fraying and there was a chunko sort of dangling off the end of it, looked like a piece of housing or a plug for the end of the housing. I cut that off and it was fine. Works without issue for now but I need to replace the cable as about 1/3 of the threads are busted. At least it's not revving to the moon every time I change gears.

What else - put the 40 into daily service last week and it did great, but I think my sleeving job on the e-brake drum is leaking just a bit from the rear output seal on the transfer case. That would be the second time a sleeve didn't do the job for me. I'm getting a parts list together for @65swb45...

 

[65swb45]

Karmic! I just changed mine last week, as it stuck on me on the way out of Death Valley .

I have a couple of dozen more in stock.

 

[majdomo]

Karmic! I just changed mine last week, as it stuck on me on the way out of Death Valley .

I have a couple of dozen more in stock.

Perfect, set one aside for me! Also a good used '72-compatible rear output drum.

I'm also getting an off-throttle vibration on the fwy from the rear that is exactly like the one from the 62 (i.e., pinion preload is off). I know I have some rear-end work in my future but not sure how much until I pull the d/s, pull axle shafts, check bearings, etc. That's all I can think of off the top, I'm sure there will be more.

 

[majdomo]

Fun stuff yesterday and today - decided to get in touch with Mark @65swb45 to see about getting a new throttle cable and possibly a different e-brake drum. While on the phone with him, I got under the rig and just happened to tug on the rear driveshaft, and found some play in the slip spline. No bueno.

That keyed up a conversation about new driveshafts, etc. He kindly suggested swapping the flanges from the '72 shaft over to the '68 one that I had on the shelf, to see if that cleared up the vibration and leak. The u-joints are only a few months old, pulling the old ones off the '68 shaft was a total pain.

And the '68 flanges. Got the death wheel out for this one, but turns out I didn't need to.

Spent 2 hours taking one of the new ones off the '72 shaft, and then once I got a procedure down, the second one took 3 minutes. Fantastic. Basically just need to bang one side out as far as it'll go, then support the sides of the flange in the vise to push the other side out as far as that side will go. At this point, both caps should be poking out of each side by about 1/2" or so. Then, pull the inner part of the u-joint to one side, which will give you enough clearance to get a punch behind the opposite cap to bang that one out all the way. Be sure to catch the cap and watch for flying needle bearings, that was fun.

Not the best photo but this is after a drive on the freeway and back. No more leak and no more vibration, fingers crossed!

The rear third member flange had also lost torque, so I got after that with as much juice as I could muster and re-staked the nut. I probably got about 130 ft-lbs on it, FSM spec is 144-175? Sosumi.

I still need that throttle cable, though. And I'll probably find other stuff to get soon enough. But one less vibration to be worried about.

Also - photos here are an experiment with an old camera, that didn't quite work but I'm also too meh to go out and reshoot them. I think I need a new small point-and-shoot for stuff like this.

EDIT - leak not fixed, but it also doesn't look like it's coming from the output seal. Taking a look later today.

 

[majdomo]

No joy on the oil leak at the transfer case output. Cleaned it up and it was right back mocking me after dropping my son off at school this morning, between the speedo cable block and the backing plate of the e-brake. Parts cannon fired at a (really) good used e-brake drum, seals, stake nut and a throttle cable (yay!) with Mark earlier, because ih8oilleaks. At least the rear vibration seems gone.