PCV Valve - How Tight?

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Feb 5, 2017
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I found a couple threads on changing the PCV valve one mentioned it was on very right. My question is how tight should it be? I just changed the PCV on my 2006 corolla and it goes flush against the block.

When I took the current one off the cruiser (04) I noticed that it was not flush. I got about a 1/3 turn past where it is in this pic and backed it off. Surely it shouldn't be this tight should it? I was really having to wrench on it.

upload_2017-4-26_21-54-55.png
 
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My 01 just has a rubber grommet to push the valve thru. The old one was cracked and really lose. The was fine but I swapped it anyway. The new one is lose also. But mine has no thread to screw into.

Have had no burning oil smell so left it alone.
 
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If they just sat in a grommet in earlier years then I'm assuming this is fine. I will just put it back together unless someone tells me otherwise. Thanks @bucfl
 
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98-02 have rubber grommet. Over time they wear loosening allowing vacuum leak (slight intake pressure drop). This reduces effectiveness of ventilation system allowing air, dust and moisture into intake. It's a good idea to replace both DS & PS hoses of PCV system as well as grommet if cracked or worn.

03-07 have threads, FSM states 20ft-lbf of torque (in one spot I found) when tightening. It's a pre-coated part new, so use a lock-tight on threads if reusing old PCV valve.

PCV valves themselves can usually just be cleaned if sticking. Using a synthetic oil helps reduce failure of valve as they'll stay cleaner IMHO.
 
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for 98-02 models apply some FIPG around the PCV, grommet and valve cover. :)
Is it just one PCV valve on the driver side and none on passenger side correct?
 
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@2001LC I put a new one in since I just bought the thing with 260k miles, but the current one looked fine so now I have a spare. I decided to just get a new one since I've also got a small seep from the rear main seal and the thread on that topic suggested it. For $10 I figured it couldn't hurt.

And I was definitely at 20ft-lb of torque

I'm only aware that there is one, someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
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for 98-02 models apply some FIPG around the PCV, grommet and valve cover. :)
Is it just one PCV valve on the driver side and none on passenger side correct?
Correct, one PCV valve on driver side (DS) head cover, but both DS & PS have a hose. The PS goes from head cover to intake air box.

I've never heard of using FIPG on PCV rubber grommet.
 
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@2001LC I put a new one in since I just bought the thing with 260k miles, but the current one looked fine so now I have a spare. I decided to just get a new one since I've also got a small seep from the rear main seal and the thread on that topic suggested it. For $10 I figured it couldn't hurt.

And I was definitely at 20ft-lb of torque

I'm only aware that there is one, someone correct me if I'm wrong.
New is always good! 20ft-lbf is not much.
 
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Just did mine and it was installed about as far as the one in the pic is. My new install has at least 1 full revolution of less engagement than yours. I did not want to force it as it gets tight quick.

The red dope is sealant. The PCV pops at such a ridiculously low pressure I don't see the need to yank down on it.

Had mine installed for 500 miles and no evidence of residue around the threads. The old one had 80k on it and it was as clean as a whistle.
 
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Does this hose seem too loose? Should it be extended deeper into the nozzle?

076674FC-FDDF-4BD5-BF53-F4C45F8C9581.jpeg
 
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You're missing a foam insulator. That if it was on the tube, your hose wouldn't even be push on the tube that far.
No big deal unless in very cold humid climate. Even then not likely a big deal.
Throttle body 01 LX470 214K 288 (1).JPG
 
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Hey, I just saw your post after searching and have a question. Do you know what size socket the valve is? I’m about to bang my head against a wall trying to get the old one out!
 
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I don't, and don't have to look in shop tonight. But unless using an O2 socket wrench, which may fit.. You can't get a regular socket on it.
These thread have red lock tight, so are very hard to get off. I've used a 12" crescent wrench to gain leverage
 
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All nuts and bolt on 100 series are metric. But in many cases an SAE is so close you can use it. You can stick a caliper on it and measure the size.
BTW: A 12", 18," 24," etc. crescent wrench, refers to length.

I test in place, and only find ~1 in 100 bad. Most test okay. I squirt a little penetrating lubricate in for good measure. But if the engine always run on synthetic or just has a good history of frequent oil change they're always good.

Why do you want to remove it?
 
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Hey, I just saw your post after searching and have a question. Do you know what size socket the valve is? I’m about to bang my head against a wall trying to get the old one out!
I used a 22mm wrench and came right off. A crescent wrench as mentioned would work if you don’t have that size wrench
 
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