Part time kit front drive shaft

808Kruzah

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Hi all, still very new to the 80 series.
If I install the part time conversion kit on my vehicle with a 6" lift on it, will I still need/want to install a double cardan drive shaft?
I've been reading forums that people have been installing double cardans up front just for vibration issues at higher speeds.
So with the part time kit, since the front drive shaft won't be spinning, do I still need it?
Will I have binding issues with a 6" lift without a double cardan up front?
Thanks for all the input.
 

flintknapper

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Deep East Texas
Hi all, still very new to the 80 series.
If I install the part time conversion kit on my vehicle with a 6" lift on it, will I still need/want to install a double cardan drive shaft?
I've been reading forums that people have been installing double cardans up front just for vibration issues at higher speeds.
So with the part time kit, since the front drive shaft won't be spinning, do I still need it?
Will I have binding issues with a 6" lift without a double cardan up front?
Thanks for all the input.


With a part time kit you won't be turning your front drive shaft provided the hubs are unlocked and the Tcase unlocked, true enough.

So IF you only wanted to use 4WD at low speeds you likely would avoid any vibration issues, BUT the angle with a 6" lift is still significant. Double Cardan addresses that. So the only questions are:

How often will you use 4wd
How hard do you intend to 'wheel' it.

If it were me....I'd go double cardan just to keep from creating such a steep angle at the driveshaft joint.
 

808Kruzah

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With a part time kit you won't be turning your front drive shaft provided the hubs are unlocked and the Tcase unlocked, true enough.

So IF you only wanted to use 4WD at low speeds you likely would avoid any vibration issues, BUT the angle with a 6" lift is still significant. Double Cardan addresses that. So the only questions are:

How often will you use 4wd
How hard do you intend to 'wheel' it.

If it were me....I'd go double cardan just to keep from creating such a steep angle at the driveshaft joint.
Thank you!
I don't use 4wd to often and if I have to, it's not for crawling or high speed off-roading.
I don't usually come across trails that put my 80 in a steep articulated angle. But, I guess it's better to be safe than sorry when it does come time to test the suspension angles. 😁
 
Joined
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With a 6 inch lift your gonna need more then that front driveshaft, what are you gonna do about the rear shaft, and everything else. If you are set on 6 inch lift buy slee and be done
 

808Kruzah

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With a 6 inch lift your gonna need more then that front driveshaft, what are you gonna do about the rear shaft, and everything else. If you are set on 6 inch lift buy slee and be done
Yes, planning on slee for complete lift. Last I checked they were out of the front drive shaft.
 

Swbkrn2003

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Yes, planning on slee for complete lift. Last I checked they were out of the front drive shaft.
Mine is a 6" lift and I have the double cardan front shaft and Part-time (front locking hubs) You will need a lot of modifications: Brake lines, LPSV bracket, adjustable rear links, Delta Bump Stop Extensions, Delta Radius Arms (for caster correction), Delta Panhard bracket, Front Panhard bar, Sway Bar Extensions, etc.. Don't go cheap! Good Luck on the lift!
 

808Kruzah

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Mine is a 6" lift and I have the double cardan front shaft and Part-time (front locking hubs) You will need a lot of modifications: Brake lines, LPSV bracket, adjustable rear links, Delta Bump Stop Extensions, Delta Radius Arms (for caster correction), Delta Panhard bracket, Front Panhard bar, Sway Bar Extensions, etc.. Don't go cheap! Good Luck on the lift!
Thanks! I was going to use the Delta radius arms, but they're on pre-order until 15 people are on the order list. Last I checked about a month ago there was only 3 people on the list and it's non-refundable.
I am using the delta panhard bracket though. Using the slee kit with slee radius arms, adjustable panhards, adjustable top links and solid bottom links. Adding a set of king res shocks, bump stops and steering stabilizer. Also getting stainless braided extended brake lines all around.
Right now I'm in the process of doing a 6.0 LS swap.
 

Swbkrn2003

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Thanks! I was going to use the Delta radius arms, but they're on pre-order until 15 people are on the order list. Last I checked about a month ago there was only 3 people on the list and it's non-refundable.
I am using the delta panhard bracket though. Using the slee kit with slee radius arms, adjustable panhards, adjustable top links and solid bottom links. Adding a set of king res shocks, bump stops and steering stabilizer. Also getting stainless braided extended brake lines all around.
Right now I'm in the process of doing a 6.0 LS swap.
Are you using the Marks LS Adapters and wiring harness? I am toying with the idea or going with @Witsend Turbo. On the fence! You are using the right stuff! Slee Radius arms are as they say Down Under " Mint". Keep us posted on the build! Mahalo,
 

808Kruzah

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Are you using the Marks LS Adapters and wiring harness? I am toying with the idea or going with @Witsend Turbo. On the fence! You are using the right stuff! Slee Radius arms are as they say Down Under " Mint". Keep us posted on the build! Mahalo,
Yes, using Mark's 4L80E transfer case adapter with The Land Cruiser Shop motor mounts and cross member. I going to use the Holley Terminator X Max stand alone ECU for the motor and transmission.
I was actually going to rebuild the 1FZ, but dropping the LS in wasn't going to cost to much more. Plus for the added HP and probably better gas mileage, I think it was a better choice for me.
 
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baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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With regards to the driveline, a standard U-joint will offer you a greater range of articulation than a standard DC joint that has not been “clearanced” by grinding specific areas of the cage.

I have about five inches of lift and fought rear driveline vibrations (growling) upon deceleration until I switched to a DC shaft in the rear.

It would be best to install your lift kit and all the extra bits mentioned in previous posts of this thread including the part time kit and then drive it to find out whether you have vibrations or not. It’s almost a guarantee that you will have front driveline vibes without going to part time and I’m betting you’ll have vines in the rear driveline as well if only on deceleration.

It’s a step by step process to eliminate driveline vibrations. There is no “one size fits all” set up.
 
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808Kruzah

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With regards to the driveline, a standard U-joint will offer you a greater range of articulation than a standard DC joint that has not been “clearanced” by grinding specific areas of the cage.

I have about five inches of lift and fought rear driveline vibrations (growling) upon deceleration until I switched to a DC shaft in the rear.

It would be best to install your lift kit and all the extra bits mentioned in previous posts of this thread including the part time kit and then drive it to find out whether you have vibrations or not. It’s almost a guarantee that will have front driveline vibes without going to part time and I’m betting you’ll have vines in the rear driveline as well if only on deceleration.

It’s a step by step process to eliminate driveline vibrations. There is no “one size fits all” set up.
Great advise, thank you!
Did you purchase a completely new rear DS or did you have the DC added to the stock DS?
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Great advise, thank you!
Did you purchase a completely new rear DS or did you have the DC added to the stock DS?
I had new drivelines made with thicker wall tubing (.095) but used the slip yoke end because it was still good. This was a few years ago and I’ve since had a few more made due to wear and damage.

I would encourage you to do as much research here and abroad on the subject of DC shafts and the 80 series. Many have created DC shafts using Toyota DC joints from other vehicles and a lot of us have allowed the shop to use a new, aftermarket DC joint that is fitted with Spicer 1310 size U-joints and then run the Toyota or Matsuba brand equivalent at the differential end. I went this route and have no complaints.

Tom Woods Drivelines in Utah has a good reputation unless you know of a good driveline only shop local to you. I mean a shop that does nothing other than build drivelines.

Last year the guys at Tom Woods drivelines in Utah told me they were working on bringing to market a rear DC shaft that uses a 1350 size DC joint that would fit our 80’s with the use of a special made transfer case output companion flange. You might call them an ask about that because 1350 is significantly larger than 1310.
 
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Right now I'm in the process of doing a 6.0 LS swap.
You might want to keep the AWD. I'm running part time and it's easy to get the rear spinning when trying to pull out into traffic on wet roads. I imagine an LS motor would make it feel like that even on dry roads...
 

808Kruzah

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I had new drivelines made with thicker wall tubing (.095) but used the slip yoke end because it was still good. This was a few years ago and I’ve since had a few more made due to wear and damage.

I would encourage you to do as much research here and abroad on the subject of DC shafts and the 80 series. Many have created DC shafts using Toyota DC joints from other vehicles and a lot of us have allowed the shop to use a new, aftermarket DC joint that is fitted with Spicer 1310 size U-joints and then run the Toyota or Matsuba brand equivalent at the differential end. I went this route and have no complaints.

Tom Woods Drivelines in Utah has a good reputation unless you know of a good driveline only shop local to you. I mean a shop that does nothing other than build drivelines.

Last year the guys at Tom Woods drivelines in Utah told me they were working on bringing to market a rear DC shaft that uses a 1350 size DC joint that would fit our 80’s with the use of a special made transfer case output companion flange. You might call them an ask about that because 1350 is significantly larger than 1310.
Thanks for the info, I look them up.
Unfortunately we don't have any dedicated driveline specialty shops in Hawaii that I know of.
Thanks again!
 

808Kruzah

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You might want to keep the AWD. I'm running part time and it's easy to get the rear spinning when trying to pull out into traffic on wet roads. I imagine an LS motor would make it feel like that even on dry roads...
That'll be fun! 🤣🤣🤣
What size tires are you running?
I'm thinking of going with a 35 with stock gears or a 37 with a 456 rear gear.
 
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Leduc County
Hi all, still very new to the 80 series.
If I install the part time conversion kit on my vehicle with a 6" lift on it, will I still need/want to install a double cardan drive shaft?
I've been reading forums that people have been installing double cardans up front just for vibration issues at higher speeds.
So with the part time kit, since the front drive shaft won't be spinning, do I still need it?
Will I have binding issues with a 6" lift without a double cardan up front?
Thanks for all the input.
There's "Wheeling" in Hawaii?
 

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