Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (3 Viewers)

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Another video, showing the way the turbo sticks through the hood. So far so good, no issues yet. Been driving it about 350 miles. Tomorrow will calculate Mpg's as well again.
 
Theres usually and aircraft style safety wire locking your fuel screw to its original position. If its not there, somebody turned up the fuel for a free couple HP's.
 
SOunds SUper aWESOME!!!!!
 
Its loud eh! Where does your exhaust come out?
 
The fuel screw has no wire, so I think it may have been turned up. It doesn't feel like it needs it and I can definitely get the egt's over 1200 of i lay into it.
 
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Vacationing through Romania. I've seen some mad cruisers! Here's one at the local hard rock in Bucharest.
 
Totally unrelated to my thread but My brothers 4Runner cat was cut and stollen, is an aftermarket cat ok? Or should we go Toyota?? This happened under his window in Sunnyside, queens.
 
Aftermarket cats work great. My 62 had a magnaflow cat and it was squeaky clean.
 
Alright folks, as of late I ran into one more annoying problem with my truck. I want to post this here before I go ahead and I buy a set of batteries for the darn thing. It seems that one of the batteries does not hold a charge as it should. I have checked the systems and removed the fuse for the clock and dome (drawing 0.3 milliamps.) then the gauges I installed and the stereo are pulling 0.17 milliamps. I charged the thing for weeks and it still turns over as though the batteries are half charged. IT DOES KEEP TURNING till it eventually starts. Now, I have tested the batteries while having the truck running and it charges just fine. There is only about half a volt difference between them as they charge, at a total of 28 to 29 volts as it showed on the voltmeter. The only thing that I noticed is that as soon as I shut off the truck or I remove the trickle charger wires, the voltage drops relatively quick, and dips below 12 volts in minutes. It will end up at around 10.3 or 10.4 v when all is said and done. Is this a sign of a bad battery? I checked all my grounds and everything and it all seems to be in order. Any help is appreciated. I did a lot of searching and I see other have problems with the hj60 charging system, and it seems its mostly due to unequal charging. Anyhow I'll do more research. Thanks all.
 
some mentioned a problem with rear cargo light and door lights as they have 24/7 power, there is so much stuff.
Yours drains pretty quick, could be bad below 12 is one broken cell, might try disconnect them when not driving? one bad makes the other bad seems right assumption.
The whole mantra about getting two equal batteries from same minute build and coffee break seems a bit tight to me, my friend used my old 100xempty hj batteries for his hj and that thing was parked for months and would start perfect: making me pukejealous.

And I just remember I had one hj battery reversing its polarity!: talk about puke

I can store it for about two weeks and it drains from 13.4 to 12.8 to 11.8 equal and I don't want to know anymore why.
So mounted a 24v charge 90Amps 2way plug in grill (2x12 is better I think) , if volts drop to 11.8 it can still start strong but I don't like the drop.

And the last times it wont charge with that plug (so more charge drivetime) but yesterday finally cleaned the plug in grill connector and it was a bit corroded (no cover) so 220v to 24v charging is fine again.

Added three 12v meters so I can see what is going on (and they consume a bit, along with the mystery draining clown)

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So one plug for heater and one for charging:

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Thanks for the reply. I was thinking bad battery as it just simply will not take a charge. I am thinking about just buying batteries and take it from there.
 
I kind of like it like that but a rear facing scoop will eventually have to be fabbed up
 

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