Our '87 4R SR5 Honduras Coffee/Missions Rig Build...

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Anywhere to buy a new liner?
 
Pretty sure they are NLA from Toyota. I have no headliner now, there's a decent interior shop not far from me that I've used before for other things, I'm gonna go over there and see what they can do. I kept the old red one to use as a pattern. We were super careful taking it out, and it still ripped.
 
Well I also wanna do sound barrier mat and possibly light wire overhead, which is another reason to remove the liner.
 
If I'm towing the 4R (has an automatic transmission) do I need to disconnect the rear driveshaft so I don't mess up the tranny? Thanks!

Note: I already towed it without removing the driveshaft (about 5-10miles) and I'm hoping I didn't screw anything up.
 
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Short distances you're fine, long ones (over 20mi) then I would
 
Thank God! Scared me, thanks!
 
Ok well top is back on. I'm 90% happy with everything overall. I will give details later as things are discovered, but thought I'd post some pics and quick thoughts.

New two piece side rail design is pretty good. Some side c-channels alignment issues, but still very usable.
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Cage was pretty easy to assemble and seems VERY strong. Personally extremely impressed.
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The quality of the sowing and material is top notch. However some of the thought in areas that cover potential leaking could be much better imo. The rear window could be more secure or I did something wrong. I don't know as they never sent me actual instructions even after asking a few times.
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This is one of the bigger issues. Defiantly gonna leak. I can make some adjustments that may help. I'm going to talk to a local shop and see what it would take to sow on an additional flap.
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All in All I would buy it again. However I would have lower expectations. The cost was worth the product. The time line on their part was absolutely ridiculous. In there defense I got the second one ever made so a lot needed to be learned still. They should have not sold any until they had more worked out.

Hope this helps someone. I'll continue to update as time passes.

-Daniel Kent


EDIT: I'd add I believe one of the biggest issues with the whole process is the material maker (also owner of the company) and the designer & builder of the amazing cage are several states away making fitment testing very difficult.

I'm excited to build a rack for it, which is my main reason for going this route as it supports the additional weight.
 
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Easy mod (wide rear view)...
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Thanks all! Great news, the gentleman that actually designed and makes the cage for the top has offered to make a whole new updated cage with various upgrades/changes and trade me out for my old one (since I have the first one on the market). He's still working on some changes so this may be a month out or so. He also feels this will fix any fitment issues. This is a huge integrity move imo and I'm grateful for the quality customer service!
 
^^^ Thanks!

Anyone have experience changing over to LED's like these?
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Thinking blinkers, brakes, backup, etc.
Thanks!
 
LED blinkers require you to run a resistor otherwise they'll blink fast as if a bulb is burned out.
 
Yes, I've changed over many of my bulbs. For the most part the experience was very good. In a few cases, I removed the LEDs because they were anemic. The parking lights on the front corners are a great example of bulbs that were not worth my money. Tail lights, both brake/parking, and turn (front and rear), have been well worth it. I'm running one of the electronic flashers made specifically for LEDs. Even though it was listed for my truck, it was not plug-and-play as I recall. The flasher did plug into a relay socket, which I had a bunch of, and was then wired to the existing socket with 1/4" spade terminals and a short piece of wire. All of my stuff came from: https://www.superbrightleds.com/

Relay sockets came from http://www.delcity.net/store/Relay-Harnesses-&-Materials/p_305
 
Cool, thanks Pappy!
 
I have also converted most of my lighting over to LEDs. I think the only thing I haven't done yet is the turn signals, because I haven't done the research about the electronic flasher conversion (any info greatly appreciated pappy). I bought all my bulbs from superbriteleds.com, and will do so again. Very happy with their service and the quality of their bulbs. Their on-line application tool is very good. The only bulb I bought that was a disappointment was the one for the bed cargo light, it was not very bright, dimmer than the OEM filament bulb. I called them to see if they had any suggestions, and they happily refunded my money for the bulb. I will be sending in another order soon for some additional bulbs.

I wrote down all the bulb numbers I ordered and where they go, I'll try to post them later. Make sure to get amber bulbs for the front markers, and red bulbs for the tails.

I just noticed that the photo you posted above has "CANBUS" on the bulb. I was told these trucks do NOT support CANBUS bulbs. This is a system in modern cars to inform a monitoring system when a bulb burns out.
 
Something to remember, if your blinkers are blinking fast it means a light it out or the relay is out on the rig. The turn signals have a certain amount of resistance and if that isn't there you get the fast blinking issue. That's why if you install LED turn signals you need a resistor in the line to make it so the resistance is back to "normal".
 
Having side mirror glass replaced and I'm repainting them and changing all the hardware to SS while I'm at it. Found a wasp nest, thankfully dead!
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