One-ton leaf springs stock vs 63 inch.

[EWheeler]

What do we think of this shackle angle? 27.5.
View attachment 4092197View attachment 4092199

Its hard to tell in the photo without knowing the actual measurements, but it looks like your shackle is too flat for that spring length and unless you absolutely kill your uptravel and limit spring compression with bump stops, you are going to max out shackle movement before your spring goes flat. This will then put the spring into a bind and potentially bend/break the main leaf. When setting up flat-ish leaf springs, you need to take the pack apart and setup shackle angle so that you will never max out the shackle travel before the spring goes flat and starts to invert.

Measure the length of your spring, eye to eye along the main leaf using a soft tape. Not the straight eye to eye distance at static free-arch, you need to total length if spring was flat. Then set your shackle flat, straight back (without leaf spring attached to it). Measure from your front spring hanger eye back to shackle hole center. If that distance is less than the eye to eye length of your leaf spring, you are going to have an issue purely based on leaf length, shackle length and shackle hanger location, and this ignores a lot of other setup concerns.

As others have stated, I think you're putting the cart well before the horse here, setting shackles up without any body weight. Shackle length, shackle angle and shackle hanger placement need to be adjusted and decided on with full weight of vehicle otherwise your are likely doing this all again in the future to make it right....

 

[Ditcherman]

Fair enough, I didn't really have a choice I had to move everything back to accommodate the new driveline. I think by the time the quarters get trimmed it won't look awful.

There’s always a choice.
It might take 3 years instead of 3 weeks, but there’s always a choice.
And in the end it will be worth it, because the alternative is selling a failed project for pennies and letting someone else fix it.
It’s just math, the flattened spring can not be longer than the thing it’s attached to or it will rip it off, but that metric is a far cry for the ride you want.

 

[matzell]

You are reading the angle finder wrong, it is more like 62 deg

 

[Jackson Hanes]

Got some shop time in.
I understood it was foolish to try to dial in an angle without any weight in/on the rig.

So I got some suitcase weights to emulate seats gas cage etc

 

[Firemedic831]

I probably should not be posting rt now . But if you feel the lose of Departure angle is worth what ever it is you are trying to gain. then who am I to criticize

 

[EWheeler]

Got some shop time in.
I understood it was foolish to try to dial in an angle without any weight in/on the rig.

So I got some suitcase weights to emulate seats gas cage etc View attachment 4095303

View attachment 4095297

Can you flip those front spring hangers around so the ramp is forward without changing your desired ride height?

 

[Ditcherman]

Sorry if I missed it but are the rear spring hangers welded to the bumper or through it, or reinforced in any way? Maybe it’s fine if not but looks like a weak point to me.

Also, isn’t the 241dhd t case the one that you can not get a slip yoke eliminator for?
That’s the one I started with until I got serious about shopping for a magnum underdrive and there was no way to shorten it. Glad I left it behind.
Just bringing that up because a shorter case could fix your short driveshaft concerns, which is where a bunch of this all started if I’m reading it right. I’m thinking a shorter tail stock could save you 8-10”.

 

[Jackson Hanes]

Sorry if I missed it but are the rear spring hangers welded to the bumper or through it, or reinforced in any way? Maybe it’s fine if not but looks like a weak point to me.

Also, isn’t the 241dhd t case the one that you can not get a slip yoke eliminator for?
That’s the one I started with until I got serious about shopping for a magnum underdrive and there was no way to shorten it. Glad I left it behind.
Just bringing that up because a shorter case could fix your short driveshaft concerns, which is where a bunch of this all started if I’m reading it right. I’m thinking a shorter tail stock could save you 8-10”.

I have a SYE on order.
Even with that I'm looking at a 16-18 inch drive shaft.

I have a 205 on the shelf that is waiting to be put in. Because its a GM nv4500 i would need to change a lot to get it to work i would need to swap the rear housing; then subsequently change the main shaft.

So im going to run this case until it breaks.

 

[Jackson Hanes]

Can you flip those front spring hangers around so the ramp is forward without changing your desired ride height?
View attachment 4095408View attachment 4095409

Yeah I might be able to im going to need to move them slightly anyways; i wasnt paying attention.
What's the reason or is this just the proper way to have the ramp facing that way.

 

[Jackson Hanes]

I probably should not be posting rt now . But if you feel the lose of Departure angle is worth what ever it is you are trying to gain. then who am I to criticize

I hate saying this but unfortunitly i dont see this seeing a lot of heavy wheelin where im located, and in situations where im going to get hung up.

it will prob be a 90/10 on-road vs off-road; i just like poorly glueing stuff together with the welder.

 

[White Stripe]

My fj60 springs were actually too soft. Of course overall ride is very opinionated. They also flexed too much. I added some leafs to stiffen it up. I also limited travel. When I was doing a flex test I had a tire 50" high and still going. At that point I felt it would be more of a hindrance than a benefit. But I never trail tested it like that to verify.

 

[Ditcherman]

I have a SYE on order.
Even with that I'm looking at a 16-18 inch drive shaft.

I have a 205 on the shelf that is waiting to be put in. Because its a GM nv4500 i would need to change a lot to get it to work i would need to swap the rear housing; then subsequently change the main shaft.

So im going to run this case until it breaks.

I'll be interested in seeing this work, I thought there was a large gear or longer shaft in the way of making this work.
I have one laying on the floor that maybe could be useful if so.

 

[Jackson Hanes]

Now time for the front.
Got a 02 Dana 60 off a super duty.

sorry for my ignorance on the subject, but the spring perch is casted into the center section. I have an inch of tube as you see.

What are my options when it comes to centering the axel under frame?

 

[EWheeler]

Yeah I might be able to im going to need to move them slightly anyways; i wasnt paying attention.
What's the reason or is this just the proper way to have the ramp facing that way.

In theory, the ramp forward eliminates the chance of catching them on something, although for where you live, it may not be a realistic concern as there are likely other components on the rig that would get hung up before you catch those spring hangers. Personally, I think ramp forward looks cleaner, as well as eliminating a blunt edge to get caught up on something.

 

[EWheeler]

Now time for the front.
Got a 02 Dana 60 off a super duty.

sorry for my ignorance on the subject, but the spring perch is casted into the center section. I have an inch of tube as you see.
View attachment 4096140
What are my options when it comes to centering the axel under frame?

Center the axle under the frame and outboard the spring & shackle hangers to match the perches on the axle. Not my rig, but this 40 has the front leaf springs completely outside of the front frame rail.

 

[mr jits]

I put 56" dakota springs under one of my 40's and they were a tight fit. If I recall correctly, I had the shackles coming off the front and rear bumpers to make room and regretted not stretching the frame while I was at it.

 

[peesalot]

You set that side where you got it and cut the other tube, move inner C in accordingly(match the distance from spring to inside of inner C)( leave loose), set pinion angle ( ignore relationship of cast pad to spring for now ), tack pass side spring perch to set pinion angle, check the driver side trunion(top of inncer C) for caster ( 4 or 5 *), if off , you can cut it loose & rotate or see if you roll to proper caster what happens to pinion angle, sometimes there is a happy medium but usually you have to roll the inner C's back a bit. Once thats done and your happy with pinion angle, check tacked on pass side spring perch to be sure its still good, tack the loose pass side inner C to match driver side caster, order a cut to length inner shaft pass side. Now all that is assuming you have located your final spring mount locations, have springs in & are comfortable finding suitable pinion angle without full vehicle weight & compressed springs, if thats the case I would tack all the above where its easy to grind off , Order the inner, that wont change. Now lets talk about that driver side perch. If you are setting the spring in hangers that are frame width you will have driveline issues and the over all axle will be narrow. Most people when using a front axle like that will outboard the hangers on the outside of frame rail, then set sprint, then set on axle as you have( I couldnt tell in the pic if your hangers are under frame or outside). Using the outboarded spring hanger is the way most go but if your dline clears then all is good. Now the cast perch. After all the other stuff is set, look at the angle of perch surface to bottom of spring, if off. you can shave perch to match angle, then make a spacer to get surface bacj up to bottom of spring. Looks like that axle uses U bolts both sides for that perch, thats good.

 

[Jackson Hanes]

This is the axel centered up under the frame. And the leaf springs kinda parallel with the frame.
Might have to bit a bump stop on the pumpkin lol