One More H55F Install - Final List (1 Viewer)

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Since you have an early "H55 ready" model (4/85), be sure to check the clearance between the front bearing retainer on the H55 and the bell housing. Some early 3F bell housings have the newer transmission clocking but inadequate clearance for the bearing retainer. I've read about this problem cropping up as late as 10/85, but have no idea how common it is.

It's a quick and easy fix with an angle grinder while it's all apart if you know you need to do it; it's a damper on your day of wrenching when you have to pull it all back out again because the transmission won't seat against the bell housing.

View attachment 1363872

Approximate location where the housing needs to be relieved is shown below in blue sharpie.

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Final test fit on the H55 before reinstalling. I had to relieve a little at the top in addition to the points on the side.

View attachment 1363870
Ok, good to know. It should be easy to see if the old bell housing needs to be relieved. Thank you
 
Hate to sound like an importer/distributor, but the Terrain Tamer Transfer Case Kits - TK4 (34mm) and TK5 (38mm) - are available at Cruiser Brothers installing shops and resellers at retail for $249 - call @beno, @orangefj45, @OTRAMM (here), @ACC Toyota, @torfab, Chris at 49 Tire, Cruiser Parts and Cruiser or Cruiser Yard, among others.

Just sayin.... :)

Bearings and idler shaft included!

We also offer rebuild kits for 2, 4 and 5 speed Toyota transmissions, including the H55.

PS - The Cruiser Brothers marketing geek (me) is clearly doing a crappy job of getting the word out. Will try and do a better job in 2017! ;)

View attachment 1363679
Does that kit include the shims? I see it has the nosecone boot. The terrain tamer kit seems to have more parts that Specter's. I think I will buy the terrrain tamer. I'm near Tucson. Who should I get the kit from?
Saludos
 
None of the kits include the shims, but I have a bunch of shim kits here and will happily include one for free with the purchase of the Terrain Tamer Tcase rebuild kit.
:)
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 
^^^ I'd jump on that deal.
I am really fighting the urge to degrade this thread with a personal comment. Nope, not today, taking the high road :)
 
John you say you are near Tucson. I have the TT kit and shims from Georg at valley hybrids for my 40. I am in Tucson as well. I'm willing to come lend a hand if you want. Then I may need help doing mine. I'm over by Sabino Canyon.
 
Georg
Ok, done deal. I'll call in the AM
John you say you are near Tucson. I have the TT kit and shims from Georg at valley hybrids for my 40. I am in Tucson as well. I'm willing to come lend a hand if you want. Then I may need help doing mine. I'm over by Sabino Canyon.
Let's do that. Sounds like fun. I will try to get into this before yearend. look forward to meeting you
 
Georg


Let's do that. Sounds like fun. I will try to get into this before yearend. look forward to meeting you
@john blake just shoot me a PM when you get a schedule thought out. I'll be in San Diego over Christmas for a few days. If you haven't already download a FSM do so and look it over. I have both electronic and toyota originals in book form.
I'm Tom btw.
 
Georg


Let's do that. Sounds like fun. I will try to get into this before yearend. look forward to meeting you
@john blake just shoot me a PM when you get a schedule thought out. I'll be in San Diego over Christmas for a few days. If you haven't already download a FSM do so and look it over. I have both electronic and toyota originals in book form.
I'm Tom btw.
Sounds good. I got the
@john blake just shoot me a PM when you get a schedule thought out. I'll be in San Diego over Christmas for a few days. If you haven't already download a FSM do so and look it over. I have both electronic and toyota originals in book form.
I'm Tom btw.
Tom, got the trans, transfer case kit, shims, trans jack all ready to go. Possible start first week of Jan. I will work on getting that FSM downloaded. Merry Christmas
 
Great John, keep me informed, let me know where you are. I'm certainly no mechanic but an extra set of hands will come in handy for this. I did change a clutch out once on my first land cruiser, a 69 40 series.... all by myself laying in the street in Evanston, Wyoming in January at temperatures well below freezing. No fun. But I was 20 or 21 then, still bulletproof with youth and no glasses or arthritis! Here is where you can get the FSM for free download thanks to @Trollhole . Georg Esterer @orangefj45 installed my H55 in my 60 about three years ago and it is a very nice set up indeed. He is on speed dial on my cell! Merry Christmas to you, too...and all Mud members.
For Sale: - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.
 
Ok, good to know. It should be easy to see if the old bell housing needs to be relieved. Thank you
Sounds good. I got the

Tom, got the trans, transfer case kit, shims, trans jack all ready to go. Possible start first week of Jan. I will work on getting that FSM downloaded. Merry Christmas
Tom, pulled the tranny today, didn't really know that the transfer does not just unbolt, you have to disassemble it anyway to get it off one piece at a time. Got all the bearings replaced except one which I will need a puller or a press for. Plan to do that tomorrow.
We'll be here in Montana Vista with plans to get it done tomorrow. Stop by and check it out. 591-5474
 
A great ending for the souped up engine build and the new H55T 5 speed install? Easy now pard, not so fast. After 350 miles of happy cruising with the valve lash that the engine rebuilder set, it was pretty noisy up in the ole tappet pan. Got set to adjust the valves but found almost no oil getting to the rocker arms. What ideas are out there? Did the rebuilder put a head bolt in the wrong hole? I will have to research the valve train to find out what's going on. The valves sound great but will have to see where the malfunction in the lube oil system is before putting the rocker cover back on. Your suggestions?
 
Possible cause of oil not getting to valve train is:
1 aftermarket head gasket oil transfer holes not correctly cut
2. any head gasket installed backwards
3. rockers assembled incorrectly
4. more

You should see oil dripping down from the rockers while the engine is idling.

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image.jpeg
 
Output hit on some good points. Also keep in mind that it can 'appear' as if not enough oil is being moved...hard to tell if you've got enough oil w/o actually seeing it, but remember you don't really get an 'oil bath', more of a drip, drip, drip.
 
Possible cause of oil not getting to valve train is:
1 aftermarket head gasket oil transfer holes not correctly cut
2. any head gasket installed backwards
3. rockers assembled incorrectly
4. more

You should see oil dripping down from the rockers while the engine is idling.

View attachment 1398505 View attachment 1398506
Yes, there is no oil dripping. There is no oil period that I can detect. This is good info. The rocker being assembled wrong would be a good easy fix, but I doubt that's it since they were all left on the shafts and I assume were just stuck back on the way they came out.
That aftermarket head gasket, scary as it is, might be the answer. I'm almost certain the rebuilder used aftermarket parts. Whether its upside down or the holes cut wrong, still hafta pull the head back off.
I will check the pressure with a readable gauge first to make sure that is not the problem. What should the pressure be, idling and at speed?
Thanks
 
Remove the whole rocker assembly and see if you can insert a stiff wire (straight hangar?) down the oil passage hole (in the head below rocker support #4). See pic above. If you can extend the wire beyond the depth of where the head gasket is, then the head gasket isn't likely the problem. But if the wire stops at the head gasket, that could be the problem.

Probe around carefully and rotate to make sure that the wire isn't just catching an edge of the hole if it doesn't insert beyond the hg. The straighter the wire/poker the better.
 
Remove the whole rocker assembly and see if you can insert a stiff wire (straight hangar?) down the oil passage hole (in the head below rocker support #4). See pic above. If you can extend the wire beyond the depth of where the head gasket is, then the head gasket isn't likely the problem. But if the wire stops at the head gasket, that could be the problem.

Probe around carefully and rotate to make sure that the wire isn't just catching an edge of the hole if it doesn't insert beyond the hg. The straighter the wire/poker the better.

Ok, I hooked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and oil pressure held steady at 60 psi at idle. It went up to about 70 when revved. So weak oil pump is not the problem.
I will try the wire trick to see if there is blockage by the head gasket. A friend suggested I might be able to drill through the oil passage and punch the hole through the head gasket?
Back yard engineering at its finest! I'm talking to the rebuilder since it is still in warranty. I would probably rather have him put in a new head gasket if an aftermarket gasket is causing the problem.
Thanks Output shaft! I'll keep you posted.
 
Looking at fig. 3-50 above and in the Toyota 2F engine repair manual, it looks like the oil galley is off to the side, over the valve lifters. If so, the oil passage takes a jog over to the center to arrive in the middle of the head and the proceed up to the rocker arm shaft? If so, probably won't get a wire or drill down there?
 
Thank you to all who helped out with your great advice. I ended up sending the LC back to the machine shop. They had indeed put the head gasket in upside down. They replaced the head gasket on warranty so no problem there. Installing the fuel injection from Performance Fuel Injection Systems was easy. I did pull a rookie mistake when installing the new HEI distributor. (90's Chevy part). I clamped down the distributor before it had a chance to fall in the slot for the oil pump. Toasted 2 distributors before I figured out what I was doing wrong. Was my face red. Kevin at pfisys.com is very helpful. So now the LC runs great. Milled head, RV cam (man-a-fre), polished ports, complete exhaust with headers and from man-a-fre, lightened crank. Runs and sounds great.
 

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